Starting Over
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Starting Over Hi guys,
Your forum has offered me more help in the past than anything or anyone so now that I have an internet connection that isn't dedicated to a smart phone (I lived on the edge of a mountain) I thought it was time to join. I lost my old 93z car to catastrophic engine failure when I was 19. Now that I have graduated college, have a job, and some money saved I am in the market for another LT1 car to play with as a weekend car. But before I get one I wanted to run some questions by the forum so I don't start out in the completely wrong direction. I have found a 93z just like mine except black for 2,000 dollars. 150k miles, perfect interior (other than the infamous drivers seat rip and cracked dash), unknown brand long tube headers, and supposedly ported and polished heads. The downside to the car is it has a wrecked spot isolated to the quarter panel and the paint on the hood is pealing. I am not worried about any of that just the motor. I know that 93s like my old one run on speed density instead of maf. I see people here arguing the supremacy of both systems and I understand the good and bad on both sides. I just figured I would ask here before I purchase the car instead of after if the inability to adapt the computer without a chip burner is the main issue or just one of several.
To answer that I know you guys will probably want to know my goals/how I intend to build the car which leads to another question for the forum. If my goal is to hit the 10.5 second mark in a street car, how would you recommend I go from the starting point. Fuel economy doesn't matter as long as it functions on pump gas and emissions aren't a factor either in TN. Budget for parts alone would be around 6-8k. I'm not a complete moron (at least I don't think I am) I just want to know the right sequence of events and ultimate best way to reach my goal. Whether it be power adders or all motor. Most of the things I did to my old Z came from the old "Killer Whale" project Caprice in 2008 Super Chevy mags. I put in did the under drive pulley, headers, exhaust, throttle body, cold air, 373 gear change, shift kit, EB heads, and the nitrous kit came in the mail the day the car failed so I never got to enjoy it. I did all the work myself so I am not just running around in the dark, I just want to make sure the purchase choices match my goal before the money leaves the bank.
So please guys weigh in. Any help on either question would be extremely appreciated. If I left any info out that you all need to help me just ask. I really tried to cover all my bases so I don't waste anyone's time.
Your forum has offered me more help in the past than anything or anyone so now that I have an internet connection that isn't dedicated to a smart phone (I lived on the edge of a mountain) I thought it was time to join. I lost my old 93z car to catastrophic engine failure when I was 19. Now that I have graduated college, have a job, and some money saved I am in the market for another LT1 car to play with as a weekend car. But before I get one I wanted to run some questions by the forum so I don't start out in the completely wrong direction. I have found a 93z just like mine except black for 2,000 dollars. 150k miles, perfect interior (other than the infamous drivers seat rip and cracked dash), unknown brand long tube headers, and supposedly ported and polished heads. The downside to the car is it has a wrecked spot isolated to the quarter panel and the paint on the hood is pealing. I am not worried about any of that just the motor. I know that 93s like my old one run on speed density instead of maf. I see people here arguing the supremacy of both systems and I understand the good and bad on both sides. I just figured I would ask here before I purchase the car instead of after if the inability to adapt the computer without a chip burner is the main issue or just one of several.
To answer that I know you guys will probably want to know my goals/how I intend to build the car which leads to another question for the forum. If my goal is to hit the 10.5 second mark in a street car, how would you recommend I go from the starting point. Fuel economy doesn't matter as long as it functions on pump gas and emissions aren't a factor either in TN. Budget for parts alone would be around 6-8k. I'm not a complete moron (at least I don't think I am) I just want to know the right sequence of events and ultimate best way to reach my goal. Whether it be power adders or all motor. Most of the things I did to my old Z came from the old "Killer Whale" project Caprice in 2008 Super Chevy mags. I put in did the under drive pulley, headers, exhaust, throttle body, cold air, 373 gear change, shift kit, EB heads, and the nitrous kit came in the mail the day the car failed so I never got to enjoy it. I did all the work myself so I am not just running around in the dark, I just want to make sure the purchase choices match my goal before the money leaves the bank.
So please guys weigh in. Any help on either question would be extremely appreciated. If I left any info out that you all need to help me just ask. I really tried to cover all my bases so I don't waste anyone's time.
loose a lot of weight, build a really good engine setup and have a really good supporting drivetrain and suspension... itll add up quickly i gurantee you that.... i know of some people hitting 11's with head and cam setups.... im sure someone else will chime in
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Yea the suspension, transmission, and rear-end set up are big concerns for me. There are so many options on each of those and opinions on which is best for each application that it is maddening. "Keep the overdrive, no get the 350 turbo. Go with a ford 9'', are you crazy?? he should use a Moser 12 bolt." My friends just say "run it till it breaks" when I ask their opinion so I came here looking for better advice.
I don't think 6-8k is enough to do it reliably. To run 10.5s on a street car on a budget you are looking at a nitrous build either way. Boosted or NA will blow through double that budget.
355 rebuild reusing stock crank but forging the rest and a reputable H/C package with a decent sized shot will handle the power requirements to get a full weight street car into the mid 10s. It wont leave much money left for a tune, transmission rebuild, stall or clutch and gears, rear end, fuel system, and suspension though.
Don't forget incidentals, especially with a 93. You'll need to convert to heated O2s, upgrade to a vented opti or run the MSD cap/rotor to make your Gen1 opti vented, and figure out what you want to do with the computer since the 93 is more difficult to find a tuner for. If its an auto keep in mind they are TV cable transmissions and not computer controlled.
As long as its a toy that you don't mind sitting on, it can be a fun project to do slowly over time and will be very rewarding once its all done. Just be prepared to go over that budget in the long run
.
BTW, welcome to the forums
355 rebuild reusing stock crank but forging the rest and a reputable H/C package with a decent sized shot will handle the power requirements to get a full weight street car into the mid 10s. It wont leave much money left for a tune, transmission rebuild, stall or clutch and gears, rear end, fuel system, and suspension though.
Don't forget incidentals, especially with a 93. You'll need to convert to heated O2s, upgrade to a vented opti or run the MSD cap/rotor to make your Gen1 opti vented, and figure out what you want to do with the computer since the 93 is more difficult to find a tuner for. If its an auto keep in mind they are TV cable transmissions and not computer controlled.
As long as its a toy that you don't mind sitting on, it can be a fun project to do slowly over time and will be very rewarding once its all done. Just be prepared to go over that budget in the long run
.BTW, welcome to the forums
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I don't think 6-8k is enough to do it reliably. To run 10.5s on a street car on a budget you are looking at a nitrous build either way. Boosted or NA will blow through double that budget.
355 rebuild reusing stock crank but forging the rest and a reputable H/C package with a decent sized shot will handle the power requirements to get a full weight street car into the mid 10s. It wont leave much money left for a tune, transmission rebuild, stall or clutch and gears, rear end, fuel system, and suspension though.
Don't forget incidentals, especially with a 93. You'll need to convert to heated O2s, upgrade to a vented opti or run the MSD cap/rotor to make your Gen1 opti vented, and figure out what you want to do with the computer since the 93 is more difficult to find a tuner for. If its an auto keep in mind they are TV cable transmissions and not computer controlled.
As long as its a toy that you don't mind sitting on, it can be a fun project to do slowly over time and will be very rewarding once its all done. Just be prepared to go over that budget in the long run.
BTW, welcome to the forums
355 rebuild reusing stock crank but forging the rest and a reputable H/C package with a decent sized shot will handle the power requirements to get a full weight street car into the mid 10s. It wont leave much money left for a tune, transmission rebuild, stall or clutch and gears, rear end, fuel system, and suspension though.
Don't forget incidentals, especially with a 93. You'll need to convert to heated O2s, upgrade to a vented opti or run the MSD cap/rotor to make your Gen1 opti vented, and figure out what you want to do with the computer since the 93 is more difficult to find a tuner for. If its an auto keep in mind they are TV cable transmissions and not computer controlled.
As long as its a toy that you don't mind sitting on, it can be a fun project to do slowly over time and will be very rewarding once its all done. Just be prepared to go over that budget in the long run
.BTW, welcome to the forums
Yea it is going to be an overtime project and more money will be spent than 8k. I just wanted to put a reasonable figure on things so I didn't get responses involving stuff like prochargers (would love to have 1 just not feasible) but i had heard rear mount turbos are more reasonable so I wanted to leave the door open for that. I haven't committed to the 93 yet but it does seem to good to pass up. Also I should have more clearly defined streetcar. I will be lightening it up a pretty good amount just not full blown drag style. The seats will be removed, so will the heater core, ac unit, ect. The same stuff I did on my old 1. I think I ended up removing 100+lbs on my old one with still more to tear out and lighter equipment to add. I see what you mean though, without a lot of weight reduction it doesn't matter much, still a hard chore. My initial plan was an le2 or le3 cam and head kit after the forged bottom end rebuild, nitrous, all the normal bolt-ons, possibly a built 700r4 (since like you said it isn't computer controlled), good street radials, and all the other assorted goodies. I just wasn't sure if a high compression stroker motor or a nitrous 355 was the easiest way to get where I want to be safely.
