I recently found a stock, totally original 1995 Z28 convert in near showroom condition with just 21,100 original, documented miles). I do not plan to race but its new home will be at my mountain summer place overlooking the infamous “tail of the dragon” so I will be routinely “cruising” on this notorious stretch between NC and Tenn. (the new plate is “TAIL Z28”). I want to keep the Z28 as close to stock as possible to insure its future value but at the same time want to improve performance and handling where ever possible WITHOUT changing its stock (or easy regress to stock) condition. I have looked at the CAI option as prime target but have found much conflicting info over its perceived value. There seems to be a consensus on one thing at least, K&N people are really great at marketing an over priced system tied to a mediocre filter. In fact, serious research shows K&N’s are routinely surpassed in just about all testing categories first by leaps and bounds with a much less expensive filter by the no 1 AC Delco, and to a lesser degree the Wix. In the absence of any reliable data (lab versus marketing) showing any worthwhile improvements I have concluded not to waste my money on any of the LT1 CAI systems, unless someone out there has access to real data showing a documented performance improvement for my specific LT1. Beyond the CAI and possibly an expensive after cat exhaust and a good tune (are the “Tuner Cat” or the”LT1 edit” worth the investment by a non-mechanic on his stock LT1)? I don’t see much opportunity for an easy inexpensive performance bump.

As far a handling, I suspect a set of heavy duty Bilstein’s will give me the best bang for the buck and since I will not be racing I don’t see the need for a “dial-up” suspension. However, I have heard a strut tower cross brace might help, but just like all the misinformation on CAI’s there seems to be no scientific data for spending a dime here other than the power of suggestion and another component to wax when showing your shiny LT1.
The stock undersized brakes may prove to be lacking on the ‘Tail” and some mods needed. Any thoughts on newer gen replacement pads? Of course a new C5 set-up ($ 1500-2000 installed?) or a salvaged 98 and later F system (at $ 600-1000) installed are options but probably not a practical investment.
Looking for facts, not opinions or theories. Thanks

 

the c5 set up is a pretty decent investment if you gather up the parts. CAI do help, i mean its not like your going to put it on and feel like you just did a cam swap but they help. could always do full bolt ons and keep your stock parts, full bolt onts (headers, exhaust, cai, 1.6rr, under drive pulley) should net you some decent power. Lowering springs and some good konis would really liven up your suspension. once again you can always replace these and leave the stock parts to the side to be put back on. If you want to leave the stock lt1 brakes, i believe people like the hawk pads, and some braided brake lines and drilled or slotted rotors would be best.

 

129 is a fantastic ride! Brakes and tires will be your best friend on the dragon. As for CAI's are concerned there is an improvement, but the restriction with the stock setup is more in the tube going from the MAF to the airbox then the airbox and filter. If you take it off and look in it you can see how pinched it gets. Is the car a six speed or an auto?

 

Talk to Sam Strano about your suspension needs. www.stranoparts.com

He will tell you what works, what doesn't and won't just try to sell you a bunch of parts.

 

Its auto, have a replacement CAI from EBAY (chrome intake mfg) but throttle elbow not drilled and no gromet for vacuum line. Also has K&N filter for $86 complete kit. Sounded like a good buy and looks nice in polished alum but the throttle body round gasket appears too small for oval throttle body. Hesitant to install since good mechanic refused to install insisting will never get good fit at throttle body.but "trackracing" say warm up gasket. If I return will lose half purchase price with shipping and restock fee.

 

sounds to me like you bought one of the cheaper ebay set up, boil the couplers in water to loosen them up, you could always drill a tiny hole in the couppler if there is space between whats connecting it a tiny enough hole once squeeze it will act like a grommet

 

Wait wait. The round part of that intake goes on the maf not the tb. Don't replace the elbow it does nothing. I had that on my car for a while, it was fine until I got a free k&n and then did the ls1 lid mod. Getting a complete set of lowering springs and good shocks and sway bars is a good investment that you can easily take back off when you sell it. Like was said call Sam and get bilstein hds, his springs and sway bars. Also, don't be too concerned about resale value as these lt1s have none. C5 brake kits are only about $3-500 if you shop well. Or just do hawk pads for the time being until you decide to upgrade. Strut tower brace is worthless. I'd do 3 point sfcs weld on if you are ok with welding on the car, but don't do bolt on sfcs as the holes elongate over time and do nothing.

 

Auto. you will NEED a good trans cooler. The biggest one you can fit. those mountain roads will really heat up your trans and heat is the biggest enemy for a automatic transmission. The LS brake swap is a huge upgrade from stock. Its a 2 piston aluminum caliper and larger rotor compared to the stock. Your tires and brakes are gonna be really important on the dragon since there are a few turns that are quite a bit more severe then they look, not to mention all the blind corners and hills. The stopping power and traction can save your life and keep you out of the trees.
Use your factory intake elbow from the MAF to the TB. It actually flows plenty. The ebay elbow might actually cause a loss in power. As for the rest of the CAI is concerned, it should be fine as long as it gets the filter out of the engine bay.

 

Thanks all for info. Went ahead and installed CAI "Chrome intake" from trackracing and glad I did. Immediate improvement in throttle respnse and looks better than overrated K&N with polished alum, and a good buy at $86. Will probably upgrade the KN filter with a WIX conical rather than clean the KN. Suspect pleats in stock t/b elbo somewhat restrictive but when I removed the t/b elbow I discovered the elbow was not reinstalled correctly (by previous owners mechanic) over the throttle body, further restricting airflow and allowing raw air into the throttle. !! a mechanic no less. Have driven the Tail end to end and back but not hard, in fact a age 74 my crash and burn days are over (I hope). My stock Lt1 is more than enough to get me in trouble and I suspect enough power to quickly pass the many yuppy doubble Harley riders, realizing no one passes the ninja freaks with their 2-wheel rockets and secret death wish. Since my summer place is on the dragon I will be cool in assessing the feel of my suspension, but really forsee an upgrade as well as some brake mods. Look me up on the Dragon, there from June thru Oct.

 

As mentioned above give Sam Strano a call for the suspension. He is a stand up guy that is one of the most knowledgeable 4th gen guys when it comes to making the car handle. I run his lowering springs, hollow front/rear sway bars and Koni shocks. I am very happy with the way my car handles and how stable it is at high speeds.

 

Saw listing for lowering kit with Bistein B12 pro kit (vitamin for my z28?) for $700 delivered. I like Bilstein HD even though several "experts" say Konis way to go and assume a lowering Koni set-up to be arround $1100. Cant see the additional cost for the Koni over the Bilstein because , while I will be crusing the tail, I dont see myself driving on the extreme edge where Konis will keep me on the Tail, and this Bilstein set up will not. Would rather put the $400 Koni name premium into an LS1 brake upgrade. Any experience with the Bilstein B12 Kit ? Remember I will not be racing, and have no intention of streching the envelope on the Tail. thanks

 

a lot of people that dont want to shell out the price for the konis go for the bilsteins, they should be a pretty decent shocl from what ive heard. I have kyb agx on all four corners of my car and back when i first bought the car they fealt great, i think the age is finally getting to them though.

 

I like my bilstein hds and ws6 springs and sway bar, the 32mm ws6 front bar and higher spring rate 99 and older ws6 springs cost me $50 and were a big improvement.

Also, the Eibach Pro kit is known for the rear springs sagging and it costs the same as the Strano kit or BMR kit which are much better. Just do either the Strano springs and Bilstein HDs or BMRs with Bilstein HDs, or keep stock springs and get a set of Strano sway bars. $250 for springs, $400 for bilsteins.

 

Thanks, looks like for my needs, Bilstein HDs for sure, still undecided if lowering will be worth the addtl cost. What additional mechanic time to install springs and sway bars in addition to just bilsteins? Already got quote of $150 + 80 for allignment from my NC mechanic for bilstein only install.