Ok I'll run you through the whole story. The other day the car wouldn't start. Dead battery, no big deal. Found out my electric water pump relay grounded out somewhere and my pump ran all night. So after moving the relay and jump starting the car, I went for a drive. Everything is good.

Next morning I go to start the car, car has voltage and everything comes on, but the starter wont engage. I was able to pop-start it down my driveway and get to work. Now here at work it intermittently wont start. I noticed that the security light will stay on sometimes now, and whenever the security light is on, the car wont crank. Do you guys thinks its a key issue, or the VATS system issue? I'm table to pop start the car everytime, but the key doesn't work everytime. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

If it won't start when the security lamp is on, then yeah, it looks like a VATS issue. Most often is it the key pellet resistance not making it to the VATS module.

 

Well i only have one key, so should i have a new key cut? Im guessing they have to be programmed or something too.

 

Have a new key cut at a mom and pop locksmith shop, they are dirt cheap compared to dealer. I mean you need an extra key anyway, and maybe the key you have has a smoothed out pellet. if that fixes everything, toss that worn key and replace it with new.

Now If it's the tumbler or not....I'd bypass it with a resistor in ANY GM car that has it, is a bad situation waiting to happen, being in the wrong place at wrong time and car won't start due to VATS. I'm surprised someone hasn't been raped, robbed, or killed because of this stupid VATS system. Me and my 10 year old daughter got stuck because of it, turned out okay but can imagine the worse.

 

sometimes the key gets dirty and stops making contact.

 

bypass the key, cost $2.00 took 5min that includes sodering , but I was lucky to have the plug under the dash.

 

It depends on what is wrong. A new key will do nothing if it still can't be read. You need to do some testing.

VATS info