splicing o2's
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 36
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splicing o2's Someone give me a straight answer why this won't work seems like its 50/50 on if it does or does not. I'm good at wiring and have acsess to all of the necessary things lime heat shrink tubing and heat shrink butt connectors as well as wire looming and what ever else I would need, dielectric grease I mean what ever. So serious
The reason you find 50/50 answers online is because its just that-it will show problems 50% of the time. I could get super technical right now. However, I always recommend replacing the entire set of SIGNAL wires. The power and ground already go to a splice, so it is 100% ok to solder them.
If you cannot replace the entire wire the best thing to do is use a HIGH leverage crimper and some uninsulated butt connectors and then cover them with heat shrink tubing. This is the only time you will hear me tell someone to use a crimper other than a production crimper and not solder the connection.
This is because it CAN cause issues if the signal circuits are soldered.
If you cannot replace the entire wire the best thing to do is use a HIGH leverage crimper and some uninsulated butt connectors and then cover them with heat shrink tubing. This is the only time you will hear me tell someone to use a crimper other than a production crimper and not solder the connection.
This is because it CAN cause issues if the signal circuits are soldered.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
The reason you find 50/50 answers online is because its just that-it will show problems 50% of the time. I could get super technical right now. However, I always recommend replacing the entire set of SIGNAL wires. The power and ground already go to a splice, so it is 100% ok to solder them.
If you cannot replace the entire wire the best thing to do is use a HIGH leverage crimper and some uninsulated butt connectors and then cover them with heat shrink tubing. This is the only time you will hear me tell someone to use a crimper other than a production crimper and not solder the connection.
This is because it CAN cause issues if the signal circuits are soldered.
If you cannot replace the entire wire the best thing to do is use a HIGH leverage crimper and some uninsulated butt connectors and then cover them with heat shrink tubing. This is the only time you will hear me tell someone to use a crimper other than a production crimper and not solder the connection.
This is because it CAN cause issues if the signal circuits are soldered.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,145
Likes: 61
From: Little Rock, AR
It is not advisable to alter the wires of the O2. They play an important part in feeding reference air to the sensor (between the wire and insulation). Altering them may cause unpredictable results. If you want to extend something, do it on the car harness side.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 36
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Can u expound upon this revelation lol. Where would I make my splice
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,145
Likes: 61
From: Little Rock, AR
Trending Topics
o2 extensions, best 40 bucks i've spent on my car. I tried making my own and had one go bad within a few hundred miles... so not only do you ruin an o2, but then you have to wait for the extensions to show up to do it right the 2nd time.
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^ what he said. I was chasing my tail for months with misfire and overfueling issues, found out that my o2 sensors had been extended with the shitty kit that Pacesetter includes with headers. Took teh spliced o2's out, put in fresh dennso sensors and nnew extension harnesses, and they are perfect.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
^ what he said. I was chasing my tail for months with misfire and overfueling issues, found out that my o2 sensors had been extended with the shitty kit that Pacesetter includes with headers. Took teh spliced o2's out, put in fresh dennso sensors and nnew extension harnesses, and they are perfect.
Because most likely the connection is more continuous than crimping, is less hassle and the key reason is they have been proven to support a stable signal since they have been put to use waaaaaaay back in the 90's. I have seen no threads regarding problematic O2 signals using extensions, but many when people admit they tried to crimp or solder...
This is the best way to do it. For a set of our extensions the cost is $39 shipped via priority. They are covered in fiberglass braid and are crimped with production tooling. They also include the CPA locks.
__________________
Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
I extended the sensor wires and soldered them and had problems. Bought new sensors and extension harnesses and problem solved. Dont ask why, try bud dry!! I have no idea why exactly it had a problem but I think it is in the type of wire used to extend them. It's like telecom wire, You can kink an old cat 5 and have problems, cat 5e and 6 not as bad if it gets kinked.
