Another valve adjustment question. Cc503
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Another valve adjustment question. Cc503 Long story short. I have a cheap stroker with stock heads and IDE the spring.. Has 1.6 rockers guildplates and stock roller lifters what's the best valve adjust for that cam... I have 1/2 turn past 0 lash
people fixate on how much preload but usually the problems are in where they start adding preload from. "zero lash" is hard for a lot of folks to find.
That said 1/2 seems reasonable, some guys will go further so the plunger can't compress much and soak up lift. Others swear you have to have barely any preload which seems to mask underrated valvesprings. I have tried everything from 1/8-5/8 and couldn't really tell a difference so I usually stick with about 1/2.
That said 1/2 seems reasonable, some guys will go further so the plunger can't compress much and soak up lift. Others swear you have to have barely any preload which seems to mask underrated valvesprings. I have tried everything from 1/8-5/8 and couldn't really tell a difference so I usually stick with about 1/2.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 118
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Thanks for the replys guys..last time I set the rockers is when I primed the engine on the stand and about 300 miles go.. Seems to run a little rough untill about 3k.. I checked everything. So the rockers are next.. And should I let the car run for a few min then adjust them?? Not cold obviously. And I use the up and down technique not spin.
My 0.02 -
I've adjusted 3/4 of a turn past zero and my step father (an ASE certified Master Mechanic) told me that was too loose; he says 1 full turn.
So, last year when we replaced one blown head gasket, we used the one full turn method, then fired it up - the opposite bank (adjusted at 3/4 of a turn) rattled - we pulled the valve cover and re-adjusted that side to one full turn and the noise disappeared.
(Food for Thought.)
: )
I've adjusted 3/4 of a turn past zero and my step father (an ASE certified Master Mechanic) told me that was too loose; he says 1 full turn.
So, last year when we replaced one blown head gasket, we used the one full turn method, then fired it up - the opposite bank (adjusted at 3/4 of a turn) rattled - we pulled the valve cover and re-adjusted that side to one full turn and the noise disappeared.
(Food for Thought.)
: )
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My 0.02 -
I've adjusted 3/4 of a turn past zero and my step father (an ASE certified Master Mechanic) told me that was too loose; he says 1 full turn.
So, last year when we replaced one blown head gasket, we used the one full turn method, then fired it up - the opposite bank (adjusted at 3/4 of a turn) rattled - we pulled the valve cover and re-adjusted that side to one full turn and the noise disappeared.
(Food for Thought.)
: )
I've adjusted 3/4 of a turn past zero and my step father (an ASE certified Master Mechanic) told me that was too loose; he says 1 full turn.
So, last year when we replaced one blown head gasket, we used the one full turn method, then fired it up - the opposite bank (adjusted at 3/4 of a turn) rattled - we pulled the valve cover and re-adjusted that side to one full turn and the noise disappeared.
(Food for Thought.)
: )
What kind of lifters are you running? Did you adjust the preload with the engine running or off? If running, did you do an initial adjustment, let it run up to operating temperature, then adjust them again? There are a number of variables that can effect this often discussed adjustment procedure.
For the record, I currently have OE lifters in my '96 Z-28. They were adjusted to 3/4 turn of preload, with the engine running, and fully up to operating temperature.....and they're quiet. In the past, I had a set of the Comp Cams "limited travel" lifters, and they were supposed to be set at 1/8 turn of preload. I tried setting them several times, between 1/8-1/4 turn of preload, engine running, up to temp, but they were always noisy. After a while, I took them out and put the OE parts back in. Since I don't race the car, who needs a high RPM capable valvetrain?
Anybody want to buy a set of lifters?
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