Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

My system is completely dry after the work I have done.
What is the proper way to bleed/fill the entire system(abs block and all) after being dry?

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

I'd bench bleed the master then install it and start bleeding at all the calipers. If you have trouble after much persistence, you can use a scan tool to bleed the abs.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

One of the easiest ways to bleed the system is to get a GM motive brake bleeder. You also may have trouble completely bleeding out the ABS block if that is still on your car. Do a search on here regarding bleeding it and you should find the steps. I think shoebox also has them on his site- www.shbox.com


Here's the bleeder:

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

Also, remember to start with the caliper furthest away from master cyl and work your way up. Passenger rear, then driver rear, passenger front, finish with driver front. Also, they make tools to do it yourself, but its easier and faster if you have someone pushing the peddle for you.

As far as bleeing the ABS block, its hit or miss. On some cars you dont need a scan tool or anything, some you do. Or you could rip it out and put in a line lock and proportioning valve, just my opinion ; )

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

I would love a motive bleeder but they are a bit expensive for me right now. I have heard some pretty good things about the valve type bleeders?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

If your master cylinder is dry the cheapest way to do it is take it off and bench bleed it to ensure that it is primed. If not then you need to use something that generates vacuum or pressure to draw or push the fluid into the brake lines.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

My system was completely dry, and I used a Motive bleeder to do it. Those self-bleeder valves for the calipers suck. Bench bleed MC, then just bleed calipers normal (furthest to closest caliper), then bleed the ABS block. It'll take you a few passes to get all the air out.