Just got a 96 Z28..........
Just got a 96 Z28.......... I wanna do a tune up. Change plugs, wire, dist. cap and rotor. I want to go with E3's .Put them wife's car I like them. Not sure on wires, which brand. I have used Accel in the past on my nova. Liked them. Also oil was changed on 7/13/13 but Iwanna change it cause I don't know what weight it is or type. Wanna go 15-50 or 20-50 Amsoil or M1. Any thoughts or suggestions for anything different would be great to hear.
Thanks. Sabo
Thanks. Sabo
I have run that weight in all my sb chevys. Not sure why. I am pretty hard on them. High revs and what not. Just not sure if I should with this one. New to the LT1s. Have a big learning curve.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 543
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From: New Hampshire
No name 5-30 and a wix filter is all my car has ever seen, with 3-4k oil change intervals. I daily drive it and red line it daily, got the car around 140k, now has 183k on the clock and still going strong.
I use tr55s for plugs? Id have to go back and look what I have in it currently, changed em not long ago when I cooked a plug wire.
I use tr55s for plugs? Id have to go back and look what I have in it currently, changed em not long ago when I cooked a plug wire.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 2
From: Nebraska
I wouldnt recomend wasting money on some of that stuff. Amsoil is good stuff but I've never had a problem with using conventional Castrol GTX 5w30. You don't need a heavy oil for any reason. My car gets raced regularly and daily driven and holds 50 PSI with 5w30 so i'm not worried.
I've never personally used E3 plugs but a friend of mine has in his 04 silverado, seemed to do the job I guess but whats the point? I use what I know works and is proven which is either NGK TR55s or your standard AC Delcos.
For plug wires, just use a new set of AC Delco wires, I hate anything with the ACCEL name personally...Bad experiences. Plus bigger wires do NOT fit very well in the stock wiring routing (which is a PITA by the way).
If you change the cap and rotor, be sure to loc-tite the rotor screws while you're in there to save a potential headache down the road.
I've never personally used E3 plugs but a friend of mine has in his 04 silverado, seemed to do the job I guess but whats the point? I use what I know works and is proven which is either NGK TR55s or your standard AC Delcos.
For plug wires, just use a new set of AC Delco wires, I hate anything with the ACCEL name personally...Bad experiences. Plus bigger wires do NOT fit very well in the stock wiring routing (which is a PITA by the way).
If you change the cap and rotor, be sure to loc-tite the rotor screws while you're in there to save a potential headache down the road.
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Suburbs
I would recommend Kendall Liquid Titanium semi-synth 5-30 if you want a conventional oil. It comes in a silver bottle and is normally cheaper than the name brand regular stuff. Kendall makes good stuff....I use it in the Wife's 06 Impala SS. I get it at Autozone for $4.50 or so.
For synthetic, I use Mobil 1 5-30.
My biggest recommendation would be to use a good filter...it makes a difference. Cut open a cheap one, including some of the Frams, and look at it..cheap media, cardboard parts...nasty. Wix, Hastings, Purolator, and I think Lee are the way to go. I think I paid $7 for a Hastings LF224 (AC PF35).
Dave
For synthetic, I use Mobil 1 5-30.
My biggest recommendation would be to use a good filter...it makes a difference. Cut open a cheap one, including some of the Frams, and look at it..cheap media, cardboard parts...nasty. Wix, Hastings, Purolator, and I think Lee are the way to go. I think I paid $7 for a Hastings LF224 (AC PF35).
Dave
The E3 tests and "proven results" are all marketing hype, they do a before test with old dirty plugs then an after with new E3s, of course it picks up mpg or hp. In reality any new proper plug would show the same gains over a dirty huge gap old plug.
There's no need for that thick of oil in your stock engine. Just causes more drag on your crank and moves slower
There's no need for that thick of oil in your stock engine. Just causes more drag on your crank and moves slower
TECH Resident
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 814
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From: Crappy Stupid Liberal Washington state
For plugs I run just good old Autolite coppers (I'm almost positive they're 104's, but I'd have to check). Everyone I know that knows a hell of a lot more about engines than me recommends just good old standard copper plugs. I personally haven't had a problem with NGK's in the past the couple times I've used them, but I know a few guys on here don't care for them. For oil I'm trying out the 0w-30 German Castrol (got it on a great deal). Depending on your engine wear (mileage) you could always run some 10w-40 high zinc content diesel oil, but I'd listen to the guys with more experience on oils. If you really want to get pedantic about it you can send a sample of your to get analyzed. Post up your results on bobstheoilguy.com.
GREEN! LIVE!!!
Taken from this thread of butt hurt hilarity:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ght=green+live
I am using blue on an opti that supports high RPM. It's LIVING just fine. Blue will work just fine.
Taken from this thread of butt hurt hilarity:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ght=green+live
I am using blue on an opti that supports high RPM. It's LIVING just fine. Blue will work just fine.
what's the mileage on the car? any mods to it? for plugs I use NGK TR55-IX Iridium plugs at time I would also use the AC delco platnium pn 41-906 but now use the NGK's. For Oil I usually use Valvoline Dino Oil..
Guess I should have mentioned the milage. Sorry. 111k. Mods, well I know of k&n cai. Has a flow master on it. Reg exhaust, I think. It sounds mean as hell! Runs like a scolded dogs ***. I don't much on it. Just got a week ago today from dealership. Kinda all I know for now anyway.
