LT1 beginner project
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What all will the machine work do for me when I take the engine to them? I want to do as much as I can with my hands but whatever is recommended to be left up to the machine work ill let them do
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Mostly what you're going to want to do is assembly. Leave things like hot-tanking, checking tolerances, and assembling the rods/pistons/rings. A good idea is find out which shop you want to use (figure out which is the most reputable shop near you) and ask them about what they offer. Explain that you want to rebuild your engine and want to stick with just assembling it. They should be able to help you understand what services they offer. A good shop shop should have no problem getting the engine where you need it to be so that all you need to do is assemble it.
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That mostly depends on the shop and what the engine needs (how much machine work). Last time I spoke with a shop near me for a Honda engine it was going to run me $350 to have everything hot tanked, a 3 angle valve job, the cylinders bored for new pistons, and the mains honed. That was a few years ago. The crank I had was in great shape. Now that was for a 4 banger, so expect more for a v8. If your block is really bad expect at least $1000. If you parts are in good shape it'd be less. You might be able to get away with just a bore hone for the cylinders.
Beetha, I edited the first few posts of this thread for couple items (uncalled for comment to your question and some profanity). I'm glad to see this thread has turned to being more constructive. Although it takes a little time, some searching here (or through a search engine) will provide alot of information on the required tools for a rebuild. Others have also provided good info here.
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If this is your first real undertaking, it can be a bit overwhelming. Especially when you get to a certain point, and need to run out and buy more tools, or that point when you're tired/hungry but keep pushing.
I don't know how old you are, but I know when I was in my late teens and early 20's, I had more drive than patience, and I would lose my head easily. It took me a while to learn to step back, take a breath, walk away and recoup. Sometimes you've gotta attack it with a fresh mind.
That's really my best advice when undertaking a big job.
I don't know how old you are, but I know when I was in my late teens and early 20's, I had more drive than patience, and I would lose my head easily. It took me a while to learn to step back, take a breath, walk away and recoup. Sometimes you've gotta attack it with a fresh mind.
That's really my best advice when undertaking a big job.
Few more things to add to the list. Hyd lifter turned to solid and a pushrod measuring tool. Engine hoist and stand. Set a goal for yourself and don't drift from it. Read all the books you can, there is some good info in them. Do you really need a rebuild? What kind of performance are you looking for? Might be better off to leave the stock shortblock in place and pick up a nice set of heads plus the supporting valvetrain. Start with the basics, what all is done to the car as it sits?
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Yea im I need of a rebuild. I blew a rod from what I've been told . Right now my car is just sitting at my moms house patiently waiting. Im just looking for original stock performance i wanna keep it classic .Nothings been done to it yet I want to really know what im doing before I get started. I want u guys to here how it sounds, it sounds awful
Last edited by Beetha; Aug 17, 2013 at 04:25 PM.
Well if you spun a bearing or kicked a rod you might be screwed. I would find a good stock short or longblock and simply drop it in. Then you can do what you want with the one you have if it is salvageable.
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Depends on the extent of damage. You say it still runs? Is there any external damage to the pan or block? I still think you would be better off getting a decent used set up and dropping it in.
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I'm with johnsonws6 on this one. If it's a spun rod bearing the block is still usable but might require a new crank. If it's a main then you're looking at machine work on the block and a new crank. If I were you I'd pick up a long block off craigslist. If you want to freshen it up you can roll in some new bearings. Since you're going for a stock rebuild I'd be reluctant to put money into the block. If you were wanting to build more of a performance engine then I could see machining the block. I don't want to try and talk you out of doing what you want to do, just letting you know what I'd do in your situation. Even pulling the engine is a lot of work on these cars , and something you could be proud of. If you go the route of getting another engine then you could have some cash for say a cam swap. I know you said you wanted to keep it stock but I'd be kicking myseof if I had the engine out and didn't work it over a least a little.
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I checked the pan no damage done there no leak or nothing, I see no external damage from what I can see, u guys really think I should just get rid of this engine and get another one? Would I be wasting money trying to rebuild it? I really want to keep my same engine if its still possible. But i shouldn't....well
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I checked the pan no damage done there no leak or nothing, I see no external damage from what I can see, u guys really think I should just get rid of this engine and get another one? Would I be wasting money trying to rebuild it? I really want to keep my same engine if its still possible. But i shouldn't....well
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I can understand wanting to keep the original engine. It really depends on how bad things are in there. When the engine is running do you hear a knocking sound? And can you tell if it's in the top of the engine or the bottom? Do you know what happened leading up to the failure? To be honest this would be a great time to put a little extra money into the engine if you are going to rebhild it. Take it up to a 355 or 383. Even on stock heads a 383 isn't too bad, and you'd have room to grow later when you want more scoot (and trust me you will). If it requires maching work it's going to cost the same whether you're going with stock or aftermarket parts (that's if it needs a bore)