Rear main seal?
The rear main seal is almost never the actual problem. Rear of the intake or oil filter adapter are MUCH more likely and both a lot cheaper and easier to fix.
For rear main seal the tranny has to come out.
For rear main seal the tranny has to come out.
You tell them the problem, they'll be happy to replace it for you at $90 to $110 an hour. Probably a four to six hour job, but they'd probably charge you an entire day. If it keeps on leaking then they'll disclaim it by saying "well you told us that was the problem and you're the boss..."
Like caprice said it's usually not the rear main, but the back of the intake. You can tell the rear main is gone by checking the block side of the flywheel or flexplate to see if it has a film of oil. Feel the back of the intake to block surface to see if it has a film of oil. You can also feel around the top of the bellhousing from the top. If it's the intake it will have to come off, cleaned, new gaskets and sealant. You do this yourself it'd be around $40. Have a shop do it they'd charge you $400 or more.
There are many how to's. Do a search on this site and study up at: www.shbox.com.
Like caprice said it's usually not the rear main, but the back of the intake. You can tell the rear main is gone by checking the block side of the flywheel or flexplate to see if it has a film of oil. Feel the back of the intake to block surface to see if it has a film of oil. You can also feel around the top of the bellhousing from the top. If it's the intake it will have to come off, cleaned, new gaskets and sealant. You do this yourself it'd be around $40. Have a shop do it they'd charge you $400 or more.
There are many how to's. Do a search on this site and study up at: www.shbox.com.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
just call the service dept of the place you would have it done and ask for a quote. It won't be cheap
as suggested, confirm first it is RMS. more likely is rear intake manifold leak, valve cover, oil filter adapter. run your hand on rear of intake where it meets block for any oil and look carefully under the car
oil willl migrate down to the lower "center' of motor and appear to be from RMS. if it is a stick car look up between dust cover and bell housing. on auto car pull inspection cover. in either case FIRST clean area and use a Q tip taped to a coat hanger or stiff wire to wipe clean the rear of the crank and inspect again after you drive some
replacing RMS requires transmission, TC, flexplate/FW removal to access RMS. a persistant rear main leak will kill a clutch if it is a stick car
as suggested, confirm first it is RMS. more likely is rear intake manifold leak, valve cover, oil filter adapter. run your hand on rear of intake where it meets block for any oil and look carefully under the car
oil willl migrate down to the lower "center' of motor and appear to be from RMS. if it is a stick car look up between dust cover and bell housing. on auto car pull inspection cover. in either case FIRST clean area and use a Q tip taped to a coat hanger or stiff wire to wipe clean the rear of the crank and inspect again after you drive some
replacing RMS requires transmission, TC, flexplate/FW removal to access RMS. a persistant rear main leak will kill a clutch if it is a stick car
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Minnesota
Alright I shall check all those things first before I have anyone else take anything off. If it is the intake is there anything else I should do or check while that whole piece is off?
Should also mention the car is 95 6 speed car with about 172k on the clock.
Should also mention the car is 95 6 speed car with about 172k on the clock.
