I am trying to figure out how to plump a remote dual outlet waterpump.

Any one know how you would plumb it?

 

Buy Block adapters and run an lines to pump. There are a few setup pictures and write ups online.

 

My plan is to put in a vertical radiator and I want a remote water pump.
Now the plumbing for a remote water pump without a thermostat is easy.
The 2 outlets on the pump go to the holes on the block, the bottom holes come out T/Y together and go to the inlet on the radiator.
Now what I am having trouble wrapping my head around is how would I put a thermostat into the system?

 

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...77715/10002/-1

 

I understand I can find thermostat housings.

The problem is if you have the outlets from the pump going to the inlet of the engine and put a thermostat inline on the way back to the radiator the coolant in the engine would overheat because its not circulating before it go to the thermostat to open up.

If you put it inline with the outlet from the pump to the block the same thing is going to happen.

 

In theory you could remove the thermostat from the housing and put it inline anywhere between the thermostat neck and the upper rad provision and it will still open.
If your trying to put it on the lower hose you would have to flip the thermostat and re-reverse the cooling flow.

 

I won't have a block mounted pump which means there is nothing circulating coolant inside the engine block. By time you heat up all the coolant to the thermostat to tell it to open the engine will overheat.

 

That Jegs remote setup works great. Used it on a previous build

 

I understand about the pumps its about plumbing it with a thermostat so it can come up to operating temperature.

If you dont use a thermostat the coolant wont come up to temperature.

 

In theory the time difference from the coolant in the block heating and the coolant in the rad hose would be minimal. I doubt that it would cause a problem. Especially if you're running a 140-160* thermostat. At that point the coolant in the block "might" be 160-180*. I would run the engine without a thermostat first, then use a temp gauge to determine the difference and purchase a thermostat based on those readings. If you see a 20* difference, purchase a 160* for 180* temps in the block.

 

just drill some 1/8th in bleed holes in the thermostat. they will allow a small amount of coolant to flow even when the t-stat is shut.

 

No one on here has a remote setup?