What are the exact differences between a 350, 355, and 383?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 206
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From: Bowling Green
What are the exact differences between a 350, 355, and 383? Not sure what all kind of work I wanna do to it but some people suggested to bore it to a 355 and some people suggested a 383 stroker. I don't know what to do so please enlighten me.
350 is 3.48 stroke x 4.00 bore
355 is 3.48 stroke x 4.03 bore
383 is 3.75 stroke x 4.03 bore
bigger stroke = more tq
the more cubes the bigger cam you will need to feed the air
355 is 3.48 stroke x 4.03 bore
383 is 3.75 stroke x 4.03 bore
bigger stroke = more tq
the more cubes the bigger cam you will need to feed the air
Other way to get 355 is a 3.5" stroke with 4.0 bore, stock stroke is 3.48. More cubes does not automatically mean more hp, you get more torque but without good flowing heads and a cam it will run out of breath quickly.
Hp = torque x rpm / 5250
Based on your threads about your brothers 306 with stock springs, I don't mean to be a dick but you should do ALOT more reading and learning before picking up a wrench and doing any modifications to your car.
Hp = torque x rpm / 5250
Based on your threads about your brothers 306 with stock springs, I don't mean to be a dick but you should do ALOT more reading and learning before picking up a wrench and doing any modifications to your car.
350/355ci = not going to net you too much difference
383ci is going to be the better bang for your buck
Need a realistic budget on what you have to spend, that always answers a lot of questions for a build direction. Need a clear understanding of your goals for the car also. 100% street car vs. street/strip weekend warrior are two different beasts. If you can answer some of these questions, you will probably get some better guidance.
383ci is going to be the better bang for your buck
Need a realistic budget on what you have to spend, that always answers a lot of questions for a build direction. Need a clear understanding of your goals for the car also. 100% street car vs. street/strip weekend warrior are two different beasts. If you can answer some of these questions, you will probably get some better guidance.
It is arguable that ALL OTHER THINGS being equal.....a 355ci will net you less power due to heavier weight of the slightly larger pistons (more drag on rotating assembly).
But......you can go forged with a 355 and spray the hell out of it (nitrous).
Or you can manipulate the block and/or pistons to increase or decrease the compression ratio.
But simply adding more bore does almost nothing to increase HP or torque.
KW
But......you can go forged with a 355 and spray the hell out of it (nitrous).
Or you can manipulate the block and/or pistons to increase or decrease the compression ratio.
But simply adding more bore does almost nothing to increase HP or torque.
KW
You can easily buy lighter than stock pistons for a 355 and pistons with a better ring pack, a 355 done well is an upgrade from a 350.
A 383 might be a slightly better bang for the buck vs a 355 but is NOT a good bang for the buck.
A good bolton setup makes 300rwhp, a very well done 350 heads/cam setup can top 420rwhp, a very well done hydraulic 383 might top 450rwhp and that stroker shortblock cost just as much as the heads/cam setup but IF the cam is bigger to compliment the extra displacement you get a quarter or a third of the HP gain you got from the heads/cam.
After heads/cam on a stock shortblock every additional HP cost exponentially more.
A 383 might be a slightly better bang for the buck vs a 355 but is NOT a good bang for the buck.
A good bolton setup makes 300rwhp, a very well done 350 heads/cam setup can top 420rwhp, a very well done hydraulic 383 might top 450rwhp and that stroker shortblock cost just as much as the heads/cam setup but IF the cam is bigger to compliment the extra displacement you get a quarter or a third of the HP gain you got from the heads/cam.
After heads/cam on a stock shortblock every additional HP cost exponentially more.
