HoppedZ

I'm back. I've been slammed with work. Due to my work load and other life constraints on my time I will most like look for a good used running LT1 from a B body. Then add speed parts to it. This seems to be the most reasonable route. However I still plan to tear down and inspect the original engine and save it for a future project. Thanks for all the input.

cardo0

Im back now from shift work too and good luck to u HoppedZ as i hope u got the information u were looking for. Just another note, i found my brand new replacement crate LT1 sitting a shop for only $1300 out the door. So keep looking for a good LT1 - i found mine on a forum parts for sale section.

Now for peanut gallery:

I don't get your f*****g point. You want the OP to reuse the stock rods because they're "proven" as opposed to a set of REAL 4340 FORGED RODS like Scat I beams or the like, but on the other hand you want him to get an Eagle cast crank with a long list of horsepower related failures whereas the LT1 crank has been proven rock solid time and time again. What are you smoking??? where can I get some?

Thats right, u dont get it. I didnt tell the op to use stock rods but the OP was interested in using his so i told him what i would do to stock rods. Somehow your confused brain sees that as telling him what to do rather than advice if he was to use stock rods. Some how your sick brain thinks i want him to buy an eagle crank when it was the last of my 3 suggestions.
Yes, u dont get it and never will. Thats called slander and u use it like u have a disease.

This entire argument over these rods > those rods and that crank < this crank is futile. None of this pertains to the OP's question and is totally pointless. Use the stock stuff and be happy.

So my advice on stock rods doesnt pertain to the OPs stated intent to use them? Get a clue. Take a tutoring session on reading comprehension.
And what is your advice to the OP? Yes, nothing at all - as usual the consistent hypocrite.


I could find 6 failed aftermarket cast crank threads for you and this can go on forever.
Yes u probably could Joe. But u continue to ignore the cheap eagle cranks can and do work even with regular drag race use and thats my point.

Talking about cast aftermarket cranks is just stupid.. Helloooo we have a perfectly good one that came with the motor! If that one is bad find another. $100 maximum, magnaflux and polish $60. On summit a cast eagle crank is $190 =/. Why spend more money on something that has questionable quality when you can use something for less and where the quality is undeniable. Lets save the aftermarket crank questions for a 450+hp build.

Yes joe i only recommended the eagle crank as the last of 3 options for a budget move. Why u and others take it as my only recommendation is just slander. Do u like your posts to be slandered Joe? I always thought u were fairly honest on this forum Joe. Why the hard line now i dont understand.




cardo, your first example has no PERFORMANCE RESULTS seems fairly new and a 6000rpm limit an the c am the OP has picked out will wan more than 6000rpm. It it makes it through 2014 AND actually performs you might have evidence to support your opinion.
Your other example is OLD and even those of us saying the Eagle are bad allow that the Older stuff was better than recent years so you still fail to support your opinion.
I suspect the Scat may be stronger but the only cast Scat I have been around in an LT1 was built 8-9 years ago and was a badly done build lots of expensive parts besides the cheap crank and made no power.

U act like u have some actual data to support your statements on parts. But in fact all u use is hearsay and random posts u read on forums while using that unconfirmed information to convince others that it is fact and that u have expertise on good and bad parts. The fact is u dont. Your posts are filled with what u claim someone else said or what u think is true or even what u think should be true. U need physiological help.
U deny information published from true professionals like Lingenfelter, Vizard and TPIS that have thousands of hours of dyno time with thousands of different engines while u have next to none. Some how u believe your hearsay sources are more accurate than professionals - get some medical help. Or try and publish your own performance book - id like to see that for a laugh but u would never find a publisher.



http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1-...gle+cast+crank
Another One Bits The Dust!!! With Pics
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/te...ml#post5711881

This is just a quick search. For years now there has been issues with Eagle forged and cast cranks. I had problems with my forged Eagle crank regarding the pilot hole and flywheel flange being oversized and the crank snout being a tad undersized. I called Eagle on this and they stated it was a "known issue" meaning my crank was not the only one with a problem. Still usable, still balanced well w/out having to add metal, but nonetheless the specs were still out of whack. Honestly if you are going to make a claim that a cast Eagle crank is fine to use over a stock one then the burden of proof is on you. The three threads I've listed are enough for me to realize there is a history and I wouldn't want to take the gamble after spending money on a rebuild only to find out the crank used was inferior to the stock one.

Hey so eagle already got your money. Thats funny. Thx, i needed the laugh.
But u really didnt read my post. Again i suggested a cheap cast eagle stroker as the last of 3 options. What else can i say? If the owner wants a low budget rebuild and cant re-use his stock crank and cant find a good used chevy then the eagle crank falls within that budget and yes they very well can be servicable parts.

cardo

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You are a real piece of work. I was not complaining. At the time I bought the crank they were the only ones offering a 3.875 stroke unless I wanted to pay significantly more. I knew what i was in for. I was stating facts as to what is wrong. I'd buy another Eagle forged crank just as long as amongst everything else the snout, flange and pilot hole were all measured and were to spec.
And now you're backpedaling. You wanted proof of those with "kindergarten knowledge." You have been given incidents of cranks breaking. The overwhelming consensus which you don't seem to understand is that Eagle cast cranks should not be an option, ever. There are plenty of LT1 cranks out there to be had.

cardo0

You have been given incidents of cranks breaking. The overwhelming consensus which you don't seem to understand is that Eagle cast cranks should not be an option, ever.

Your 3 examples is not "overwhelming" by any means. And i do not agree eagle cast cranks "should not be an option". And i gave proof they are usable so your statement is a distortion. I can agree the eagle cast crank is not a first choice by any means - but u for some reason cant live with that. Your loss not mine.

BTW get a job.

cardo

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I have a cast eagle crank sitting in my garage that is snapped into two pieces. Their forged stuff is fine as long as a decent machine shop does the finishing and balancing.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

There have been several incidents of this happening over the years, and it has been documented on this forum as well as others. I spent maybe five minutes on that search. You've been actively posting here for maybe less than a year? Do you have any personal experience with any Eagle product to which you can back up these endorsements? If not, shut the **** up, Donny you're out of your element.

cardo0

Well how can u say anything 'bout the cast cranks since yours is forged? Your hypocrisy problem is active again. As i do know others that have success with the eagle cast cranks i can post their feedback all i want rather than listen some ones second hand information.

Eagle is the lowest priced crank and more than likely sells the most cast cranks. The more parts a company sells the more parts that end up broken. Just ask comp cams or MSD how many part failures they are blamed for. Its easy to be in denial and blame the mfr. But that others do have good results with eagle cast cranks tells me not all reports are accurate.

And since u have no eagle cast crank experience then follow your own advice and shut up.
cardo

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I will say it again, you are a piece of work.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

BTW, use this:
http://www.merriam-webster.com/

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

You're up here defending a cheapo crankshaft infamous for breaking and offering the OP useless advice about reconditioning stock rods (the part about shot peening made me giggle, stock rods are already peened from the factory). All of your suggestions are a waste of time and money which is why everyone likes to heckle you. Plus, reading your posts takes me back to the awful peer editing I had to endure in middle school english classes.

Yes, in this situation I would gladly use the stock rods and bolts without a doubt. However, if I had to throw money into connecting rods I would much rather go with a set of Scat 4340 I beams which have been proven to be tough as nails and already come with ARP bolts. Definitely stronger than stock rods and the price difference would be marginal. Anyway, NONE OF THIS IS RELEVANT.

What was my advice?

Dude, are you blind???

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

here's my first hand experience, I have one sitting in two pieces on the floor of my garage. I'll post pics if you want. I had a 383 now I have a stock short block with my heads and cam on it because luckily they didn't get taken out when out the crank sheared and locked up my motor.

cardo0

Yea, i read your post the first time. If u had read this thread u would have seen i already mentioned i have read threads on the forums with broken cast eagle cranks.
So does that mean all eagle cast cranks are unusable? I know some that have made good service. What can u say for that?
How many MSD 6ALs have broken. Does that mean all MSD 6AL boxes are bad and unusable?? I replaced a failed one for a friends corvette and still bought one for my Z28.

Whys the broken crank still in your garage? U like broken pieces sitting around the garage for some reason? Try to send it back for refund? Drop it off for scrap? So for your application u needed a better crank. Does that mean everyone does??? Just because your teed off doesnt mean others arent happy with theirs.

cardo

cardo0

Not everyone heckles me, just the regular poop spreaders like you and few other sorry butts. It aint worth trying to debate anything with u because your all over the place. U say: Use the stock stuff and be happy. Then in a later post: "You want the OP to reuse the stock rods because they're "proven" as opposed to a set of REAL 4340 FORGED RODS like Scat I beams or the like". Because u dont kow WTF to do to improve the "stock stuff" u will claim i said something i didnt. And your claim the LT1 PM rods are already shot peened is BS. Your listening to the crap-manager too much and just making things up. Your too much of a coward to actually post or agree with the truth if it makes u look bad.
Your like a bag of poop on the door step - if u kick it u just get the poop on your shoe.
U keep claiming poop like im defending cast eagle cranks when i suggest one as a last option. If u couldnt slander others here u would have little to say. Again i dont have to use names as everyone knows who u are.


I will say it again, you are a piece of work.

Thats the best u can do? Whine 'bout my typographic slips??

BTW, use this:
http://www.merriam-webster.com/
Wow, thats really funny.

cardo

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

cardo on the MSD do some research the vast majority of us have found aftermarket "ignition upgrades" to me if anything a NEGATIVE thing on normal NA cars. At best they seem to wear out the opti and plugs without benefit.

By the time these were built EPA regulations had pushed them to make the ignition nice and hot already as well as the long service intervals meaning they wanted enough power to jump big eroded gaps.

I have tried a couple ignition mods, matter of fact my first mod was an aftermarket ignition system complete with new coil and all. All it did was cause problems and failed, I pissed away a lot of money chasing the problems it was causing too. Later I went back and did an Accel 300+ box because I wanted the spark based rev limit. When disconnecting it at the track the car ran somewhere between the same and .05 slower.
So all an aftermarket ignition really does for a street/strip NA LT1 is wear out the cap/rotor/plugs.

On the cranks as said the OLD eagle cast ones were OK, hell I have seen them used in 7500rpm dirt track motors 8+ years ago, more recently they wont hold up to a mild street 383 LT1. There was a change you want to ignore.

far as all your **** slinging against me you just keep pretending I am making things up. I have experience and a quick car on my side, you have what????????

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I posted it twice because obviously you have a reading problem. It was used in a mild, low reving, n/a 383. If the crank couldn't handle that level of use then what application would it be used for? I keep it around as a souvenir and reminder not to waste my money on aftermarket cast cranks. Only bought it in the first place because I was building my first motor and didn't want to find out I didn't know what I was doing on $3-4k short block.

cardo0

far as all your **** slinging against me you just keep pretending I am making things up. I have experience and a quick car on my side, you have what????????

Im not pretending your making things up. U continue to change the subject to avoid the question: wheres your data for eagle cranks? How many eagel cranks fail each year and how many eagle cranks are sold each year. All u have to is a very few broken cranks that get to the internet and may pop up in a google search. Well a google search showed me plenty of broken SCAT cast cranks too. So are all SCAT cast cranks bad now too?? No im not going to post the links are your are not worth the effort.

cardo on the MSD do some research the vast majority of us have found aftermarket "ignition upgrades" to me if anything a NEGATIVE thing on normal NA cars. At best they seem to wear out the opti and plugs without benefit.

Who the hell is "us"? Like u got data that supports a vast majority?? This crap just flows outa your moud. Seek medical help!

Now u want to argue ignition systems?? Like my MSD box has anyting to do with your ACCEL box disappointment. And like the stock ign coil doesnt have a preinstalled driver that limits the amperage? Your single test with an ACCEL box reveils nothing for my MSD but you want others to think you can speak for all LT1 ignitions. Try starting your on thread on LT1 ignitions - good luck if anyone shows up to talk with you.

Yea, my car is still a dog. So what? I thought my Z28 was a beater untill seeing yours. As seen from your pix your car is fugg'n ugly ghetto cruiser. And a 4-door tuna boat too. I could care how fast it goes.


cardo

cardo0

I posted it twice because obviously you have a reading problem. It was used in a mild, low reving, n/a 383.

Obviously u have a engine building problem. A google search finds these eagle cast crank successes:

Ok heres from 2009: I have a cast Eagle crank in my 383. It's all balanced to zero though; rods, pistons, crank, flywheel, and balancer. I don't have any issues, and spin mine to a tick over 6500 pretty regularly.

@: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-bad-idea.html

And from 2012: Re: Eagle Rod Co cast crank street rotating assy??? I got one in the Wifes LT4 and it spins nice and is around 475 at the crank. Runns 11.9s at 3,600 with a cam that is to big

@: http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=472409

And for 2014 COCHRAN Motor Speedway calls out Eagle cast cranks to replace stock cranks for their racing series.: 2014 Bomber Rules...ENGINE RULES: ...Crankshaft: Cast only 49 lbs. minimum, no balancing. Eagle crank. OK...Eagle # 103523480 cast 1 pc. Rear Seal – Scat # 9-10526 1 pc. seal. OK

@http://cochranspeedway.com/rules/bomber/

Your souvenir should be a reminder that you dont know WFT your doing building engines.

Back off shift work,
cardo

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I am far from the only one who has found ignition "upgrades" to be without value on LT1s. The Accel was not the only one I tried. The Accel box was actually the only one Ed Wright found to help atall on the dyno.

2009 is again OLD.

475fwhp is weak for a stroker, stock shortblock motors routinely exceed that.

The fact you are quoting some obscure junkyard refugee race series and that it only says Eagle OK not mandatory or anything just proves how hard you are trying to dig to pretend you are right.

That is a junkyard car class, people aren't building engines, hell the valvespring max seat pressure is 90lbs, these aren't powerful motors. and there is no saying anyone is bothering with the eagle cranks, hell they aren't allowed to balance them so the engines will eat the bearings anyway.

BMX Dad

Dear moderator: Why do you tolerate posts by cardo? He seems to add no value and just posts nonsense to get others upset.

cardo0

The fact you are quoting some obscure junkyard refugee race series and that it only says Eagle OK not mandatory or anything just proves how hard you are trying to dig to pretend you are right. That is a junkyard car class, people aren't building engines, hell the valvespring max seat pressure is 90lbs, these aren't powerful motors. and there is no saying anyone is bothering with the eagle cranks, hell they aren't allowed to balance them so the engines will eat the bearings anyway.

The fact u now down grade the power level of engines using the eagle cranks while the OP is building modestly clearly shows your schizophrenic nature. Now u want to debate LT1 ign because it hides your lousy posting on balancing used stock cranks and the like. U jump from 1 lousy recommendation to the next looking for something that may give u credibility and or discredit someone else. Most everyone knows what u try to do but avoid u because they dont what to deal with your running your mouth.

Why dont u explain your vlv lofting on street cams again for a good laugh? Its 'bout as relative to the OPs original thread as ACCEL ignitions.


Dear moderator: Why do you tolerate posts by cardo? He seems to add no value and just posts nonsense to get others upset.

There aint no moderator here. Thats how the crap manager gets away with runnng his mouth, making personal attacks and bogus claims. Get a clue or post somewhere else where they have moderators that actually "moderate". You wont find any crap managers posting there.

cardo