You can think and say whatever you want. There's a fine line between bluntness and rudeness - you crossed that line. Everyone likes to learn, but no one likes being told they are ignorant. Don't hold your breath waiting for any thank you cards. I'm moving on.

 

I agree with your builder. If Opti has over 50k mi, cap & rotor are basic "service" items. As mentioned you could also swap to a EWP (I did 16 years ago) or just replace WP GIVEN the motor is out of the car (Corvette)


I would take the advice on what Ed says about larger injectors & TB.....but still do cap/rotor also at a minimum

 

The 92-93 have 22lbs injectors, that are over 20 years old and GM allowed a 10% variance. The chances of them being up to the task of a build even this mild are pretty slim.

A basic replacement like a 30lbs. SVO is usually balanced within 3%.

Even without correcting poor choices you really need to be looking at injectors something in the 28lbs range would be fine but availability and tuning ease wise 30lbs SVO are the easy choice, cap and rotor at minimum, MSD would add venting to improve life, and it seems really foolish to put a used waterpump back on a rebuilt engine.

Again injectors later will not be the simple swap like his engine guru says because of the tuning. Swap a set of 30lbs injectors on an engine tuned for 22lbs and you will blow it up in short order. Only makes sense to do them now. If you had the later system with the better fuel rail and 24lbs injectors it might be worth trying but with the 92 setup I don't see it working.

Roger, there is a difference between offering advise and failing to tell someone their preconceived plan is poor. Customer service professionals can quickly read wether an individual is interested or open to advise or if they want support for their decision.

 

Wheel Stander, I can't say for sure that you have the higher stall (~2200 rpm) 12" Vette converter as opposed to what our big slow land yachts came with (~1400 rpm), but if it do, you'd be completely wasting time and money swapping it for an aftermarket 12" anything. I've dealt with 2400-2800 stall 12" converters from reputable companies that also make good smaller diameter converters. While of good quality, none of them offered any more performance than the Vette/S10 converter.
I'd either keep what you have or go with one of the tight 9.5" converters. There will be a world of difference between a 2600 12" converter and a 2600 9.5". The 9.5 will drive better and perform better.
Did you ask Ed if he would run a 12" 2600 converter in his own car?

 

WOW!!! It was never my intention to cause such an uproar. However, for the record, I'm going to be using a B&M Holeshot 2400 converter. I don't know whether it's 9.5" or 12", but that's the one going into the car. It also happens to be the one that Ed Wright recommended I use. Also, I talked to my guy last night and he is going to call Ed tomorrow to resolve the concern regarding the injectors. I understand that if I waited to switch the injectors the motor would need to be retuned. Hence, to avoid future headaches we're going to address that issue now. As for the distributor and water pump, that was pretty much a no-brainer, and we had planned all along to replace them. I probably will take the car to the track a few times just to see what it can do, but my sole intention all along was simply to have a nice, lightly modified daily driver. I have no plans of trying to compete with the big boys. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and input.

 

WOW!!! Who's in an uproar? Touchy, aren't we?
I was just posting some considerations, based on experience.
But......I see you're not looking for anything like that, so let me just offer you my condolences. And about Ed, either you're just outright lying here, you misunderstood something he said, he WAS humoring you (with your attitude, I don't doubt that), or he was trying out some new medication..lol!

 

Dwayne

The Op's ? was simply about if he should follow the advice of builder regarding replacing Opti & WP (while motor is out of the car) vs diffrent injectors & TB for his new top end/cam motor. He did not ask opinions on his choice of componets currently for his top end/cam swap.

Ed Wright is far more qualified than you or I to comment on if he should address the injectors and TB for the OP's intended use of the car....which the OP is having his builder specifically address with Ed.

I find Ed to be very candid on his opinions and is certainly not in need of saying what his customer "wants to hear"

Yes you, Pat, I and others may have opinions on what we individually feel is better if it were "our" motor but the OP has made his choices and knows what his intended use of the cars is. Many builds are not based on getting the "max" 1/4 mi performance, nothing wrong with that, especially since OP states he is only going to run the 1/4 just to see what it does but just wants a good street daily driver car.

 

Everyone on this thread needs to simmer down and stop getting so butthurt over what somebody said on the internet; you do need thick skin to post around here I've found, and take everything you hear from certain posters with a grain of salt. That said, there is a lot of experience/knowledge to be gained if you listen and sort out the BS. The land yacht comment was just to illustrate the huge weight difference in the vehicles, (a lighter car doesn't need as much converter to get out of the hole) while offering a playful dig at 96capricemgr....nobody ever said anybody's land yacht was slow; to the contrary I can completely respect someone who can make a 4200lb behemoth go 10's or 11's, much harder to do that than in a Corvette/f-body....also, a b-body drag enthusiast will more than likely have different goals/expectations for the car....they are complete polar opposites other than sharing a LT1. And besides I do have valid sources on this data.....Wikipedia specifically states B-bodys as the most commonly referred to landyacht, it's not an insult, it's a commonly used American car descriptor...embrace it!


"The term landyacht is, however, applied to modern cars as well. Most commonly, it is applied to vehicles using the General Motors B platform, which was cancelled in 1996" -Wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landyacht

 

Good moderatin' there, guys!

BTW, when discussing a 2600 TC, I'm not thinking 1/4 mile.....lol!

I hoped someone would see the sarcasm in "big slow land yachts"

 

I was simply referring to all of the responses to this thread ... seems like there have been quite a few conflicting ideas on what I should be doing with my project. So I think we're both just over-reacting to what the other is trying to say ... no offense was intended. As for me "just outright lying" and my "attitude", I don't understand why you would say that. I'm new to the forum and just trying to gather some information, but the first thing I hear is that all of my decisions for the project are "poor" and that my engine builder basically has no idea what he is doing ... those kind of remarks just seemed a bit unnecessary. I appreciate the feedback and realize that most of you have much more knowledge that me, but the tone of some of the remarks could have been a little friendlier and more constructive.

 

Yep, certain posters around here are tactless; that is for SURE! Don't let it keep you from posting to get advice however....in the end everyone is trying to help, sometimes in very misguided ways!

 

B&M will be 12" an they don't make good 4L60/E/700R4 products. IF someone were to consider a 12" "performance" converter I would use Precision or Edge or the like.

I will again point out that a good 9.5" will run cooler drive better and be a lot less weight hanging on the crank. Pick up the stocker once I don't know what it weights but a 9.5" is in the upper 20s depending on options. The weight savings alone even if you got them in the same stall rating would make the 9.5" a real performance upgrade.

bowtienut and I have been playing with these cars a long long time, he also plays with his tow rig and has tried a few converters in that. We have both made mistakes and are willing to help other's avoid them. Too often though newbs are just like this guy and don't want to hear it till they have followed through with their mistake and prove it to themselves. Then you have the guys like Roger who will swear by their mistakes till they are blue in the face.

To be successful in this hobby it helps a lot to learn from other folks and to admit your mistakes, we ALL make them, swearing by them cost a lot more than learning from them and moving forward.

 

Far as "tactless", have to do something to stand out from the ignorant static. In many threads you have 10 stupid people praising something and one honest voice gets lost in the noise.

Consider the "tactless" posts my way of raising my voice above the crowd.

 

Your voice has been heard and your comments noted. I have no doubt you are very knowledgeable, so don't think I'm being dismissive of your suggestions. But on the other hand, I'm also fairly certain that others who have weighed in with less critical comments are themselves not ignorant. As you said, we all make mistakes and I may well be making some on this project. I accept that. Hopefully, I'll learn from my mistakes and in the future, like you, be able to offer useful information to those who follow behind me. With that being said, I suggest all of us put the personal stuff aside and keep our eyes on the ball (or, better yet, on our cars).

 

For what it's worth, I also have quite a bit of experience with both daily driver and high performance builds in my own and others' F and Y bodies, so my comments on torque converters aren't based just on B-body and truck applications.
Some may have the impression that the benefit of a higher stall is all over when you leave the start line. Quite the contrary; try replacing a properly matched (I'm not talking drag-oriented) 9.5 or 10" converter in a daily driver setup with any 12" converter, and the performance loss in many driving situations is glaring. After full throttle gear changes, and any time you need a little extra acceleration in anything other than 1st gear, unless you stab it enough to force a downshift, it almost feels like something is wrong with the engine as it labors to get back into its powerband.

 

OK, but help me out here. If the information shown on the right-hand side of this link ... http://www.performanceautomatic.com/...onverters.html ... is accurate than it sounds like either an 11" or 12" TC would work for my application. Based on the link, I get the impression that a 10" or smaller TC is pretty much designed for race applications. Am I wrong? If so, what am I missing?

 

I have no first-hand experience with PA converters, but the write-up in that link leads me to believe they don't specialize in performance street and daily driver converters. It's a typical dumb-downed explanation that would make perfect sense to a novice, and guess what - that marketing works, because there are more novices out there buying converters than there are people who really understand the subject. If they wrote that piece catering to people who understood converters, they'd lose 90% of their potential customers right then and there because it would just go over their heads.
You've already made a step away from pure novice by just engaging in the conversations in this post; keep it up!
Another thing about their description is that they don't even acknowledge (or maybe I missed it?) lock-up clutches eliminating most of the daily driving compromise they talk about with the higher stall or smaller diameter units. I'd look elsewhere for a good street converter. I'm not saying they don't make good stuff, but I'd have to talk to a few folks there to get better confidence than that write-up gives me. On the surface it looks like they're a race converter shop bringing in extra business by offering what amounts to little more than a rebuild of factory converters for "street" people.

After doing a few back-to-back comparisons in the same vehicles; fullsize pickup, B-body, F-body; here's my condensed conclusion:
If your priority is in the zero to half throttle range where it's nice to feel that low rpm torque of a stock engine, then a 12" converter like the Vette/S10 is about as good as you'll get. (A close friend even tried a Yank 12" Stealth 2800 a long time ago in his B-body, and honestly it felt and performed no better than an S-10 converter, and I'm a Yank fan!)
If you want to take advantage of the engine's powerband when you stab the throttle 1/2 or more, then a 9.5" is head and shoulders above. I'm not talking anything aimed at 1/4 mile performance; I mean a 2600 or 2800 stall 9.5" converter compared to a 12" unit.

 

Definitely food for thought. Thanks for your interest in what I'm trying to accomplish.

 

OP read this: http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_10...chain_set.html

I have to admit even a less than reputable TCI 2800 converter and DR's made this Corvette quite a bit quicker than stock (7 tenths).....although, it would be 10x cooler IMO with a 6spd swap (900-6000 RPM "stall" ), just saying!

 

I've seen that article. It's pretty good. The follow-up article can be found here

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_10...s/viewall.html

If you scroll to the end of it, they say "In an upcoming issue (soon-we promise!), we'll be back to put the newly revitalized car through its paces at the track and on the dyno."

Unfortunately, I've not been able to find anything on "vetteweb" about the car being run at the track or its performance on the dyno. If you are able to find it, please send it to me. I'd like to see how the car ran AFTER the Trick Flow head and cam package was installed.