I was starting to think that as well, but would it hit closed loop after like 2 miles of driving?

 

If it loses power only when warmed up, it could be a secondary ignition component like the coil, but if that is the case, you should also see a stumble when it is hot and under a load, so you could try putting it in high gear and give it the gas and see if that also does it. Log the runs though, that is really helpful in troubleshooting these cars.

But, if its any consolation, there's an awful lot of guys spending an awful lot of money to make their cars leave the line without spinning, so it isn't all bad. And maybe its just the big guy's way of saving you some money on tires and keeping you from screwing up your brakes.

One other solution is to just get your engine to make more power, then you don't need the brakes at all to do a burnout

 

Yeah, I thought of that, too, and it will be leaner in closed loop than when its cold or when you first start it up, but I'd be surprised if it made that big of a difference on your car. Personally, I wouldn't beat on my car unless it was properly warmed up to begin with.

 

yea I usually don't until it's warmed up. just has me puzzled. it doesn't miss or backfire. its weird. starting to think maybe knock sensor could be faulty?

 

The thing with closed loop is that some sensors will only read in closed loop and many will default to tables specifically for it. Other thing would be like previously mentioned faulty electronics that will show more issue when exposed to a higher level of heat like warm engine bay. Within these scenarios I believe your problem lies. A faulty temp sensor that reads higher than normal can cause your pcm to opt into a safe or limp mode that will retard timing and add fuel.

 

started pulling stuff apart. removed the coil pack/icm and when I pulled the coil wire off white corroded dust went everywhere. the coil is corroded as hell, and looks like original plug wires on a 94 with 174,000 miles on it. maybe this is part of my problem lol

 

Closed loop is in relation to the O2 sensors heating up correctly and how long the car has been running. If the O2 sensors dont heat up properly under normal circumstances during the closed loop timer in th pcm the pcm will normally store a o2 sensor heater malfunction dtc.

When you power brake the car in D and the car does NOT burn out, does it
A) Stop reving at a certine RPM no matter how the pedal position is
B)RPM is not steady and a popping sound heard and felt
C)Car pushes front tires but car us not spinning tires

If the coil wire or coil itself look old,cracked,no dielectric greese it might be worth pulling a few wires and plugs to check resistance and electrodes coukd help determine the issues.

 

stops reving at a certain rpm until I let off the brake. also I found the the vacume hose for the msd opti was cracked off and not connected on either side (opti or intake). idk if this would effect that or just the ventilation. whoever did this opti also never routed the fresh air hose to the air inlet. think im gona take the msd off and go with a different opti.

 

I run msd with no issues ever, the vacuum leak could cause an issue since its un metered air entering after the maf. But i would still suggest scan car while driving and trying to duplicate the condition then go back and rewiew the data. Without doing that its a shot in the dark as to what the real issue is.

 

there is no unmetered air entering. the fresh air hose was never hooked up at the top of the opti. just the vaccum one that routes to the side of the intake manifold, but that is cracked off (finding a new hose this week)