LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

new engine 1150 miles no oil pres

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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 02:38 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by WCT13
From what we read when we rebuilt the engine, the "rebuild kits" are designed to be dropped in without having to rebalance the engine. My car is NOT for strip use, its for a DD. a fun DD...the only reason we didn't use the old oil pump was because it looked like it was on its death bed. along with 95% of the stuff we pulled out of the car. This car will be LUCKY to see one strip visit in its life. the only reason we bored it over is because the piston walls were oval shaped. We had it bored .030 over along with it honed. The crank had to be turned from something cutting grooves in it.

This was a very extremely low budget rebuild. We can't afford to drop 800$ pistons into our car and go on with our lives. Those pistons have given us no problems at all yet. The bottom end was professionally put back together by a decent shop around here. If he thought it would of been a problem he would of told us.

80 gram heavier pistons(stock is 532 far as I know and those came up as 610 when I googled) and it sounds like you didn't balance it?I would expect it to be slowly eating the bearings as is.
Again start looking for a good used stock motor. I didn't suggest $800 pistons I said I would use stock before that stuff whether a street or strip car.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by WCT13
Well is their a fix to the drive gear that can hold the new HV pump? We found that the Mallionized gears can hold them alot better then some of the other gears.
To replace that pump, we would have to take off something in the suspension to get the pan off right? And then we got to tac weld the pick up tube back in place.
Hate to say it, but the fix would be to pull the engine, check your bearings, and replace the oil pump. Most of the time when it eats the drive gear it puts a lot of metal shavings through the oiling system and hurts the bearings, oil pump, piston skirts, & piston rings.

Last edited by 1997bird; Mar 23, 2014 at 03:20 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 1997bird
Hate to say it, but the fix would be to pull the engine, check your bearings, and replace the oil pump. Most of the time when it eats the drive gear it puts a lot of metal shavings through the oiling system and hurts the bearings, oil pump, piston skirts, & piston rings.
Or he could just swap the oil pump and hope for the best right? Worst case it eats itself and then it has to be pulled. LT1s are cheap.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 08:48 PM
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Why are you guys making this guy worry so much? Get a melonized gear. Prolly put a oem oil pump back in and you'll be fine! Just a couples days work.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 08:54 PM
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Was it rebalanced?
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 96LT1Z
Why are you guys making this guy worry so much? Get a melonized gear. Prolly put a oem oil pump back in and you'll be fine! Just a couples days work.
He shouldn't need a special gear. People were putting HOT cams in LT1s right after they first came out and had no problems.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 96LT1Z
Why are you guys making this guy worry so much? Get a melonized gear. Prolly put a oem oil pump back in and you'll be fine! Just a couples days work.
The gear is otw. and i don't really want to change the oil pump out cause we have no means of lifting the motor up anymore and i can't afford to pay a shop for something relativley simple. if this hv pump is sooo bad then why does summit sell it with the kit?

Imho i don't think the pump is hv pump is all of the issue. maybe the thickness of the oil? Causes the pump to work harder which. in turn adds stress to the oil pump drive gear? if we really need to change that pump it would really make me want to sell this car even more.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Was it rebalanced?
To be 100% honest I'm not sure. we gave the guy the complete bottom end to redo. we tokd him to bore it over and he hot bathed it bored it and honed it for the same price so he might of.

are their any signs to tell its not balanced? And those stock pistons you said you would of reused...if you seen the one we kept you would be praising me for buying something to replace it.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 09:22 PM
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All you need to do is jack the motor on the bell housing. The drop your k member about 6ish inches pull you pan. Swap your oil pump. Then bolt the k member back up. Then drop the motor back into the k member and your good to go. Iv replaced an oil pan in my 96. Definitely do able in a day. Maybe two
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 09:28 PM
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What this guy said ^^^ I loosened motor mount bolts and kmember the bolts and was able to jack the engine up enough to get the pan out. Car lift and fancy tools not needed.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ipaq3115
What this guy said ^^^ I loosened motor mount bolts and kmember the bolts and was able to jack the engine up enough to get the pan out. Car lift and fancy tools not needed.
^^^^ don't be discouraged!! Just get a buddy, provide the beer and knock it out!
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by shbox
He shouldn't need a special gear. People were putting HOT cams in LT1s right after they first came out and had no problems.
At the risk of incurring the wrath of the interbox, can I respectfully make an analogy to the way that lifters and camshafts have been failing, to the degree that we now have very specific break-in procedures and break-in oils; the root-cause of this issue is also at work here with our LT engine's drive gears.

I believe both issues (i.e. - the 'need' for melonized gears and the 'need' for break-in oils for camshafts) stem from the newer oil standards - these new oils now have fewer anti-wear agents - because these very agents cause the newer catalytic converters (which, every year, have thinner and thinner wash-coats of Platinum and Palladium) to fail before (and this is the key) the vehicle exceeds the warranty period.

That, in a nutshell, is why "special" gears and "special" oils and "special" break-in procedures are now necessary; Platinum and Palladium both get more expensive every year, so the manufacturers create new methods of using less of these precious metals to offset the additional costs. However, with the thinner coatings, the oil additives must be reduced to avoid premature failure of an emissions related (i.e. - "warrantied") part.

(OK, I'm done. Now everyone can tell me how I'm an idiot and that new oils must be better than old oils - because they're "new" - and that this wear-related issue could not possibly be related to the reduction of the anti-wear additives in new motor oils.)
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 96LT1Z
Why are you guys making this guy worry so much? Get a melonized gear. Prolly put a oem oil pump back in and you'll be fine! Just a couples days work.
I'm not trying to worry him, I'm just trying to tell him to check his engine out since he wanted to know what the fix should be. I own my own machine shop and have seen what happens when the gear gets damaged on the oil drive. Maybe it will be ok, but from what I've seen that's usually not the case.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by WCT13
The gear is otw. and i don't really want to change the oil pump out cause we have no means of lifting the motor up anymore and i can't afford to pay a shop for something relativley simple. if this hv pump is sooo bad then why does summit sell it with the kit?

Imho i don't think the pump is hv pump is all of the issue. maybe the thickness of the oil? Causes the pump to work harder which. in turn adds stress to the oil pump drive gear? if we really need to change that pump it would really make me want to sell this car even more.

You think we haven't seem people make this mistake before? HV pump are the quickest way to kill the drive, we have seen it before and as long as people refuse to do research and then swear by their bad decisions just like you we will continue to see it.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 12:35 PM
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People want advice based on real world data, then don't want to hear it when they get it.

If special oils and gears were needed on every install, then why don't we see drive gear failures on every install that does not use them? Because, basically, it is an HV pump caused stress issue. Special oils or gears might prolong failure, but that is about it.

Summit sells it with the kit, because they don't know any better or they figure the customer should know what they want.
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by WCT13
we didn't use the old oil pump was because it looked like it was on its death bed.
Just curious, what made you think this? Most would agree that oil pumps in reality, don't fail or really wear out due to their simplicity of design. That said, I cant ever recall seeing one on the board.
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
Just curious, what made you think this? Most would agree that oil pumps in reality, don't fail or really wear out due to their simplicity of design. That said, I cant ever recall seeing one on the board.
when we rebuilt the motor we took it out and their was piecea of metal in it from where the pistons were scraping the walls not to mention the thing felt brittle along with some other parts because of a major overheating issue the motor went through. it was ran at max temp for 30-45mins so that hurt a lot of stuff
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
You think we haven't seem people make this mistake before? HV pump are the quickest way to kill the drive, we have seen it before and as long as people refuse to do research and then swear by their bad decisions just like you we will continue to see it.
you are one arrogant *******. first off if i knew anything about motors and their parts i wouldn't be here asking questions like this now would i? Secondly you don't know me or my story. i will replace the oil pump but its not going to happen anytime soon. if you want to fund this for a shop to do please be my guest. my current financial situation doeant allow me to stop for stupid stuff like this.
i don't appreciate you basically calling me stupid when i obviously have no idea what i am doing. i actually asked about the rebuild kit when i bought it on here and not a single person said anything about that pump.

Last edited by WCT13; Mar 25, 2014 at 09:11 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 11:06 PM
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Sorry that you are a victim of some bad advice, but you can't blame the internet. Not everyone out there knows what they are doing, either. That's something you have to sort out.
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
80 gram heavier pistons(stock is 532 far as I know and those came up as 610 when I googled) and it sounds like you didn't balance it?I would expect it to be slowly eating the bearings as is.
Again start looking for a good used stock motor. I didn't suggest $800 pistons I said I would use stock before that stuff whether a street or strip car.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-H597ACP

thise are the pistons we got. the only diff is those are 4.000 bore.
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