new engine 1150 miles no oil pres
This was a very extremely low budget rebuild. We can't afford to drop 800$ pistons into our car and go on with our lives. Those pistons have given us no problems at all yet. The bottom end was professionally put back together by a decent shop around here. If he thought it would of been a problem he would of told us.

I would expect it to be slowly eating the bearings as is.Again start looking for a good used stock motor. I didn't suggest $800 pistons I said I would use stock before that stuff whether a street or strip car.
To replace that pump, we would have to take off something in the suspension to get the pan off right? And then we got to tac weld the pick up tube back in place.
Last edited by 1997bird; Mar 23, 2014 at 03:20 PM.
Imho i don't think the pump is hv pump is all of the issue. maybe the thickness of the oil? Causes the pump to work harder which. in turn adds stress to the oil pump drive gear? if we really need to change that pump it would really make me want to sell this car even more.
are their any signs to tell its not balanced? And those stock pistons you said you would of reused...if you seen the one we kept you would be praising me for buying something to replace it.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I believe both issues (i.e. - the 'need' for melonized gears and the 'need' for break-in oils for camshafts) stem from the newer oil standards - these new oils now have fewer anti-wear agents - because these very agents cause the newer catalytic converters (which, every year, have thinner and thinner wash-coats of Platinum and Palladium) to fail before (and this is the key) the vehicle exceeds the warranty period.
That, in a nutshell, is why "special" gears and "special" oils and "special" break-in procedures are now necessary; Platinum and Palladium both get more expensive every year, so the manufacturers create new methods of using less of these precious metals to offset the additional costs. However, with the thinner coatings, the oil additives must be reduced to avoid premature failure of an emissions related (i.e. - "warrantied") part.
(OK, I'm done. Now everyone can tell me how I'm an idiot and that new oils must be better than old oils - because they're "new" - and that this wear-related issue could not possibly be related to the reduction of the anti-wear additives in new motor oils.)
Imho i don't think the pump is hv pump is all of the issue. maybe the thickness of the oil? Causes the pump to work harder which. in turn adds stress to the oil pump drive gear? if we really need to change that pump it would really make me want to sell this car even more.
You think we haven't seem people make this mistake before? HV pump are the quickest way to kill the drive, we have seen it before and as long as people refuse to do research and then swear by their bad decisions just like you we will continue to see it.
If special oils and gears were needed on every install, then why don't we see drive gear failures on every install that does not use them? Because, basically, it is an HV pump caused stress issue. Special oils or gears might prolong failure, but that is about it.
Summit sells it with the kit, because they don't know any better or they figure the customer should know what they want.
i don't appreciate you basically calling me stupid when i obviously have no idea what i am doing. i actually asked about the rebuild kit when i bought it on here and not a single person said anything about that pump.
Last edited by WCT13; Mar 25, 2014 at 09:11 PM.
I would expect it to be slowly eating the bearings as is.Again start looking for a good used stock motor. I didn't suggest $800 pistons I said I would use stock before that stuff whether a street or strip car.
thise are the pistons we got. the only diff is those are 4.000 bore.






