LT1 Rear Brakes.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 372
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga Ontario Canada
LT1 Rear Brakes. Hi, this is the wrong section but I figured this is a good spot because are brakes are so unique.
I tried to replace my rear brakes on the weekend, finding out that you cant just compress the piston back into the caliper like most brakes, you need to remove a 7mm allen key bolt from the center and thread the piston back in with a special tool. Otherwise I cant fit the caliper back over the new pads, it just wont fit without threading the piston back into the caliper.
I am surprised and frustrated with the lack of information on rear brakes in general for LT1 cars, I cant get the allen key bolt loose because it is seized on and I am contemplating just getting new calipers, but with the ebrake system the way it is (complex looking) back there I need detailed instructions on how to disassemble the rear brakes and ebrake in order to install new calipers on the rear.
Does anyone know where I can find a good write up on this? I have been searching for days with nothing more than this
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com.../photo_10.html
and for some reason they were able to compress the piston back into the caliper. but i have the same tool and i cant, to must pressure is suppose to damage the caliper. I dont want to apply heat to the surface because there are rubber seals. So I am at my wits end for trying to salvage the original calipers unless someone knows how to get that piston back in easier? or should i just press it in has hard as i can and bleed off pressure through the bleeder screw and hope I dont destroy the caliper?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
I tried to replace my rear brakes on the weekend, finding out that you cant just compress the piston back into the caliper like most brakes, you need to remove a 7mm allen key bolt from the center and thread the piston back in with a special tool. Otherwise I cant fit the caliper back over the new pads, it just wont fit without threading the piston back into the caliper.
I am surprised and frustrated with the lack of information on rear brakes in general for LT1 cars, I cant get the allen key bolt loose because it is seized on and I am contemplating just getting new calipers, but with the ebrake system the way it is (complex looking) back there I need detailed instructions on how to disassemble the rear brakes and ebrake in order to install new calipers on the rear.
Does anyone know where I can find a good write up on this? I have been searching for days with nothing more than this
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com.../photo_10.html
and for some reason they were able to compress the piston back into the caliper. but i have the same tool and i cant, to must pressure is suppose to damage the caliper. I dont want to apply heat to the surface because there are rubber seals. So I am at my wits end for trying to salvage the original calipers unless someone knows how to get that piston back in easier? or should i just press it in has hard as i can and bleed off pressure through the bleeder screw and hope I dont destroy the caliper?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
TECH Addict
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2,103
Likes: 21
Did you remove the brake reservoir cap and try to push the piston in? You will fight it if you don't because you are compressing a system with un-compressible fluid in it.
Just keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure fluid doesn't come spilling out lol.
Just keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure fluid doesn't come spilling out lol.
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Yep. They aren't screw in style. Take the cap off the master cylinder reservoir, use the old brake pad to put against the piston and either a c-clamp or large channel locks and it should compress easily. If it doesn't, you may have a seized piston.
The brake snobs will tell you to unscrew the bleeder because you are forcing "old brake fluid back into the reservoir..." Whatever. I've done it this way for years and it has never had any negative effect.
The brake snobs will tell you to unscrew the bleeder because you are forcing "old brake fluid back into the reservoir..." Whatever. I've done it this way for years and it has never had any negative effect.
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Yep. They aren't screw in style. Take the cap off the master cylinder reservoir, use the old brake pad to put against the piston and either a c-clamp or large channel locks and it should compress easily. If it doesn't, you may have a seized piston.
The brake snobs will tell you to unscrew the bleeder because you are forcing "old brake fluid back into the reservoir..." Whatever. I've done it this way for years and it has never had any negative effect.
The brake snobs will tell you to unscrew the bleeder because you are forcing "old brake fluid back into the reservoir..." Whatever. I've done it this way for years and it has never had any negative effect.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,147
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From: Little Rock, AR
If I couldn't press the piston by hand, I just used a C-clamp. There is no screwing of the piston or special tool needed (like on some imports or other cars). The lack of information is probably because there isn't anything special about it to require some.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 372
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga Ontario Canada
ok good that makes sense. i tried to compress it and the piston would just go cockeyed when it started hitting the leaver attached to the ebrake.
and yes i was removing the brake reservoir cap
im gunna try the bleeder screw next just because its right there and might be easier to push the fluid out.
and yes i was removing the brake reservoir cap
im gunna try the bleeder screw next just because its right there and might be easier to push the fluid out. 
driver side? im having problems with my driver side. im about to just replace both and call it a day. Passenger pushed in no problems. driver side is tough and also the ebrake cable sicks on the driver side
wish the calipers were cheaper to buy
wish the calipers were cheaper to buy
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 372
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From: Mississauga Ontario Canada
well i was looking at the passenger side, which i dident get around to changing, both pads are wearing evenly and arent even that worn, probably 50%. looking at the drivers side rear pads i took out, the inner pad was worn right down to the metal and the outer pad was only worn about 50%. i think my drivers side caliper is seized and not returning fully causing the excessive wear on the inner pad, which also explains why it was such a pain in the *** and i couldent compress it. Anyone know how hard it is to replace the rear caliper? is it difficult to disconnect from the ebrake or do i just unhook it and hook it into the new assembly? thanks for the help so far guys!
i took mine off and reinstalled them without any issue. i still need to get a new caliper and redo it cause i think i have a bad caliper as well. seems to still be wearing funny and the driver side squeaks on turn.
unhooking the ebrake was pretty straight forward though
unhooking the ebrake was pretty straight forward though
If I were you I would start by removing the ebrake cables and then try and return the piston to home position all the way back in caliper.
They are called Ebrake calipers since the ebrake is integrated into the caliper manually.
Just last year on my wife's 04 grand Prix I noticed excessive wear to the rear pads. It turned out that on her car it has a main ebrake cable that runs from the pedal inside the car to a T junction From the T 2 cables from each rear caliper meet up. Both cables from the rear calipers went bad and were causing the brakes to stay slightly engaged but not enough for her to notice.
disconnect the ebrake cable and make sure the caliper is truly bad before you replace it. I almost over looked it on my wife's car.
They are called Ebrake calipers since the ebrake is integrated into the caliper manually.
Just last year on my wife's 04 grand Prix I noticed excessive wear to the rear pads. It turned out that on her car it has a main ebrake cable that runs from the pedal inside the car to a T junction From the T 2 cables from each rear caliper meet up. Both cables from the rear calipers went bad and were causing the brakes to stay slightly engaged but not enough for her to notice.
disconnect the ebrake cable and make sure the caliper is truly bad before you replace it. I almost over looked it on my wife's car.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 372
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From: Mississauga Ontario Canada
im thinking thats what is it, because when i try and compress the piston back into the caliper, it hits the leaver for the e-brake and then it starts going crooked because the leaver wont go back any farther. i think ill need a new e-brake cable. how can i test to see if the cable is going back all the way? will the "T" be pulled to one side more when the e-brake is off "handle down"?