Zero Oil Pressure
You may consider filing a notch in the lower land of your new drive to squirt oil on the gears as recommended by Crane Cams. http://www.cranecams.com/bulletins_listview.php?s_id=27
And also installing a magnetic drain plug to catch any future chips that my be produced and to allow you to see the problem developing before total gear failure. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-Oil-Drain-Plug-Firebird-LT1-LS1-5-7L-Trans-Am-/310086168293?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4832936ee5&vxp=mtr
And also installing a magnetic drain plug to catch any future chips that my be produced and to allow you to see the problem developing before total gear failure. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-Oil-Drain-Plug-Firebird-LT1-LS1-5-7L-Trans-Am-/310086168293?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4832936ee5&vxp=mtr
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
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If it is another plastic coupler-type, then no. You should be looking at this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...make/chevrolet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...make/chevrolet
But yes he should be running that shaft
OP
likely when whoever did the cam swap in your car the bolt was over TQ on the oil pump drive so the plastic broke. This can cause the gear assembly to "lift" and wear the edges of the gear.
hard to say from pic of your cam if those gears are OK. Carefully check your oil & filter for shavings....they had to go somewhere.
you could put in a new gear and magnetic drain plug. drive 500 mi and check plug for abnormal amount of debris/shavings...and if that is the case your cam may be eating the new gear because the cam gear is now Fok up
pic of cracked plastic from over TQ
and that link from Crane in guppymech post about HV pumps and STOCK bearing clearances....if that is your motor...put a standard volume pump back in
OP is referring to the "plastic" top of the drive gear assembly, not the stock plastic collar on the oil pump drive shaft.
But yes he should be running that shaft
OP
likely when whoever did the cam swap in your car the bolt was over TQ on the oil pump drive so the plastic broke. This can cause the gear assembly to "lift" and wear the edges of the gear.
hard to say from pic of your cam if those gears are OK. Carefully check your oil & filter for shavings....they had to go somewhere.
you could put in a new gear and magnetic drain plug. drive 500 mi and check plug for abnormal amount of debris/shavings...and if that is the case your cam may be eating the new gear because the cam gear is now Fok up
pic of cracked plastic from over TQ
and that link from Crane in guppymech post about HV pumps and STOCK bearing clearances....if that is your motor...put a standard volume pump back in
But yes he should be running that shaft
OP
likely when whoever did the cam swap in your car the bolt was over TQ on the oil pump drive so the plastic broke. This can cause the gear assembly to "lift" and wear the edges of the gear.
hard to say from pic of your cam if those gears are OK. Carefully check your oil & filter for shavings....they had to go somewhere.
you could put in a new gear and magnetic drain plug. drive 500 mi and check plug for abnormal amount of debris/shavings...and if that is the case your cam may be eating the new gear because the cam gear is now Fok up
pic of cracked plastic from over TQ
and that link from Crane in guppymech post about HV pumps and STOCK bearing clearances....if that is your motor...put a standard volume pump back in
Hopefully it was just that the cracked mounting tab allowed the gear to ride up and have a bad contact pattern.
If you want to try just swapping the gear assembly, I would go buy some thin oil or even seafoam or something to pour through the engine with the drainplug out and closely inspect what comes out. I would also cut open the filter hoping to find the gear shavings but NO COPPER.
If you want to try just swapping the gear assembly, I would go buy some thin oil or even seafoam or something to pour through the engine with the drainplug out and closely inspect what comes out. I would also cut open the filter hoping to find the gear shavings but NO COPPER.
That happened to me and spun the #4 rod bearing. Thankfully it was still under warranty and got a new long block, then just swapped all my mods over to the new engine at the dealership.
If all 360 degrees look like that, then your cam is probably OK, but you still need to pull it and inspect it out of the car (sorry) to be 100% sure. You don't want a single (slightly) damaged cam gear to wipe out your new oil pump drive.
So, pull the W/P, balancer, Opti, and front cover; then pull the cam, drop the pan and oil pump.
Good luck!
So, pull the W/P, balancer, Opti, and front cover; then pull the cam, drop the pan and oil pump.
Good luck!
