Thanks for taking time to read this. My transmission shifts perfect 1&2 wide open but when it tries to goto 3rd it studers 3 or 4 times before it shifts any ideas. Thanks for your time

 

Mine does the same thing, although one model year older. I'd like to figure it out too.

 

I just had my trans built up and still doing it

 

Who built it up (shop, friend, you)? Shift kit, if so who tuned it? What RPM's is this doing it at? Only wide open throttle? Does it shift normal when driving normal?

 

is it a studer or are you hitting the rev limiter

 

I had it built buy curry transmission. It has a shift kit and I think the studer is the rev limiter. I can drive it hard at 3/4 throttle and it shifts hard just like 1&2 but if wide open it will hit the rev limiter. I also have 4.10 gears if that makes a difference new opti spark 8mm wires and pro comp cam 511-276. I have not had it tuned yet but it did this before all this was done. Thank you for any help

 

mine would hit the rev limiter going from 3rd into 4th. the rpms would also surge a little at wot towards the top of the gear. I downed my car to replace a bunch of stuff that was on its way out opti, fuel pump, and a leaking injector while it was down I had the computer tuned. when everything was back together it didn't do it anymore so I cant say which one corrected it for me but the tuner did change my shift points from 55,000ish to 53,000ish so my guess would be that is what solved the problem. the gear change without a tune would def confuse the computer and the shift points. fyi hitting the rev limiter is a lot better then an actual shudder from the tranny

 

correction the shift points where 65,000ish to 63,000ish

 

The trans build (mostly clutch clearance and valvebody parameters) has a big effect on how long it takes to complete that 2-3 shift. Not necessarily saying the build is bad; just program your 2-3 command to a lower rpm to avoid tagging the limiter.

 

Would it be better to take back to them and let them program that in or is that something I can do. Oh I was going to say when the car is cold when I leave in the morning it shifts good it's when it warms up is when it starts doing it

 

Like bowtienut said, lower the shift point. Cold hydraulic fluid is thicker than warm, that can have an effect when you start figuring in clearance differences and time to shift (apply 3rd from 2nd). Just because the computer is told to shift at 6500 at WOT doesn't mean it'll shift at exactly 6500 at WOT. You have to play with it a little to figure out actual shift RPM's vs commanded shift RPM's.

If you are bouncing off the limiter, lower the shift point. If your trans shop can access your computer then they can tune it. Not sure if they have the equipment though, many (if not most) trans shops don't carry that kind of capability. Do you have TunerCats or TunerPro?

 

There is a cold shift point and a Hot shift point in tuning.

 

Thank all of your time and help I have decided to get it tuned at a shop in Charlotte nc $500.00 dollars. I will let you guys know how it turns out thank you again