Connecting rod question
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From: burbs of chi-town
Connecting rod question So I'm going to buy the first part of my 383 build and it's going to be connecting rods. I've settled on K1 billet 6" rods. Now the real question is weather I buy the lightweight versions. They're the same price, so I'm thinking I want to get the 500g rods as opposed to the 630g rods. I'm planning of building a rowdy 383, mostly track with some street. Spinning it to 7000+ rpm. This makes me want the lighter ones, but I'm planning on spraying it as well.
So the question is, if I go light, am I going to shoot myself in the foot with spray?
http://www.k1technologies.com/Connec...7/Default.aspx
The only real downside I see is the heavy versions come with 7/16" cap screws where the lighter ones only have 3/8", but both are ARP2000 bolts.
So the question is, if I go light, am I going to shoot myself in the foot with spray?
http://www.k1technologies.com/Connec...7/Default.aspx
The only real downside I see is the heavy versions come with 7/16" cap screws where the lighter ones only have 3/8", but both are ARP2000 bolts.
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Joined: May 2009
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From: NW AR
Copy Mike V's setup if you really want to rev it. Don't reinvent the wheel. Once you start getting into light rods/piston, you have to get the matching bob weight in the crank. People that mix and match end up with a crank that has to get swiss cheese'd with a drill or expensive mallory added to get it to work. And any shop that does that kind of work doesn't do it for free.
Also people spin stock stuff that high, rod bolts and a rod resize is all you need on the bottom end. The valve train is going to be entirely different though.
Also people spin stock stuff that high, rod bolts and a rod resize is all you need on the bottom end. The valve train is going to be entirely different though.
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I'm not going with a 355, the crank out of my spare engine is junk we spun a rod bearing and drove it an hour home since we had no trailer. That was almost 10 years ago.
And unfortunately, I don't know Mike V.
And unfortunately, I don't know Mike V.
I think you will save some money and aggrivation if you buy a reciprocating assembly. I pieced my forged build together and paid big bucks to have it all balanced. Save your money and buy once.
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From: burbs of chi-town
The only nice thing about picking my own parts, I've found pistons and rods that are roughly 900g before rings and pins. If I'm any good, I should be able to keep it light enough so they only have to take material off the throws of the crank.
