LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

N.O.S fuel line problem

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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 10:37 AM
  #21  
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the LTx pcm/MAF will NOT react fast enough or accurate enough to rely on for pre-maf dry kits
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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 11:36 AM
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The lt1 NOS dry kit I had used a nitrous pressure regulator which essentially sprayed n2o in the vacuum port on the fpr to bump up fuel pressure. Never had an issue with it personally.
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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 01:13 PM
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there are plenty of guys that use or have used that kit....its just for the cost you can get a wet kit and have more control over the system....and not risk having the plastic fuel lines come apart
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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 09:40 PM
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Thanks guys, after putting ngk tr6 plugs and new fuel lines in today I was thinking about pulling the inline pump off then I looked at the old lines from 1995 and they were all starting to leak fuel and so that the major reason so I'm pulling timing as we speak and going to try and spray it tomorrow before I go to school. On a side note does anyone know how to change your username because I might want to in the future.
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 09:16 AM
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to change your username you will need to contact a moderator


the NGK tr6 plugs will work, but they are a projected tip, you want to use a non-projected tip plug with nitrous...the NGK BR7ef would have been a better choice, use those with your next plug change
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 11:01 AM
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What's the difference between projected and non-projected? Does it work better like burning all of the nitrous and fuel or what's the pros and cons of it?
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 12:28 PM
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I believe the br6 would be better. The 7 would be too cold.
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 11:37 PM
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I'm thinking of building a 383 or 396 but I've heard that for a solid roller cam that you'd have to tear down the engine and refresh it every couple thousand miles and I don't know if that is true or not.
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Old Jul 1, 2014 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by WHTLTN2
I'm thinking of building a 383 or 396 but I've heard that for a solid roller cam that you'd have to tear down the engine and refresh it every couple thousand miles and I don't know if that is true or not.
Couple thousand? Not likely that quickly, but yes certainly more frequently. The reason for a SR setup is to run a more aggressive cam lobe ramp. A ramp that accelerates extremely quick offers the valve a much longer duration at a wider opened state. Open further for longer = more Air/fuel in and more exhaust gasses out. Faster acceleration is not usually handles as well by a hydraulic lifter. The aggressive nature abuses the hydraulic "shock absorber". Also a SR setup allows for the ability to run at a higher RPM without valve float because you can then run a much stiffer valve spring. I'm currently building a SR setup 396 stroker with a LE spec'd 268/271 .688/.688 cam that will see 7300rpm shifts and a 200 shot. And yes, its a street car.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 11:03 AM
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Got a new intake elbow put the nozzle before the MAF sensor, new ngk tr6 plugs, and new fuel lines and it runs fantastic the first time it scared the crap out of me lol
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