Loose CPS Reluctor Wheel?!?! W/Video
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Teching In
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From: Bloomington, MN
Loose CPS Reluctor Wheel?!?! W/Video Check this out... Any one know how this could happen? Its my understanding that there has been some debate as to whether or not the CPS effects timing or just alerts of a misfire, so aside from this being noisy is this something I can repair in the off season and continue to drive it for the summer?
Car was purchased with long list of mods, so I'm learning as I go. This wheel is where the CPS reluctor ring should be according to the diagrams provided by shbox, but it doesn't seem to have teeth or notches for the CPS to read. Whats the deal?!?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5B...it?usp=sharing
Car was purchased with long list of mods, so I'm learning as I go. This wheel is where the CPS reluctor ring should be according to the diagrams provided by shbox, but it doesn't seem to have teeth or notches for the CPS to read. Whats the deal?!?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5B...it?usp=sharing
I'm gonna guess it has
A. wrong year or wrong LT1 Vehicle hub
B. It has the wrong All in one damper /balancer
I would pull damper and hub and start with some measurements and then tell us more about the car. That has a 96/97 timing cover so the hub or all in one has to match the cover.
A. wrong year or wrong LT1 Vehicle hub
B. It has the wrong All in one damper /balancer
I would pull damper and hub and start with some measurements and then tell us more about the car. That has a 96/97 timing cover so the hub or all in one has to match the cover.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: Bloomington, MN
Thanks for the info!
What kind of measurements should I find? I saw in diagrams that there is a crank shaft key for the 97, what are the chances this came loose and would it be a result of that?
Wouldn't this cause an alignment issue between the pulleys? I've not had any trouble with belts jumping ect, so alignment is fine...
Ill look through my paperwork to find out which ATI Super Damper is on it.
It could be your crank hub bolt is too long and has bottomed out before seating the hub/balancer against the face of the crank reluctor.
Ill look through my paperwork to find out which ATI Super Damper is on it.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: Bloomington, MN
It kinda seems to me that the whole CPS and this loose reluctor wheel are not vital to the operation of the engine, I've seen some posts of people tuning the CPS out. If I take everything apart and just reassemble w/o the reluctor wheel and tune it out, or don't, and just throw a code for CPS whats the downside?
Thread Starter
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From: Bloomington, MN
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5B...it?usp=sharing
But if the hub bolt was loose only the hub would move right? This looks like the spindle of the timing chain you can see is moving as well... Is this the whole crank?
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It's a bit difficult to see, but it does look like the reluctor or whatever piece that is in there that is not connected to the hub is also moving, which could mean your thrust bearing is flux0r3d. IMO, take the hub off and try to move the crank again. Theoretically the hub is a press fit and is not easily removed.
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Verdad Gallardo It's a bit difficult to see, but it does look like the reluctor or whatever piece that is in there that is not connected to the hub is also moving, which could mean your thrust bearing is flux0r3d. IMO, take the hub off and try to move the crank again. Theoretically the hub is a press fit and is not easily removed.
There is usually a very small amount of front to back movement for the crank to move front to back. I dont think the hub is moving in that video because they tend to bind sideways and not just move forward so easily. I don't have the measurements but if you look at the jegs hubs that they have made it gives specs that might help you. just find the one that will fit your year and make model.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...chTerm=lt1+hub
Also it would be a good time to look at the end threads on the bolt and see if they look like they were bottomed out. By the way My 97 did not have a key for the hub stock, people add them when they ad aftermarket hubs and dampers.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: Bloomington, MN
Good info, TY.
Yeah, I dont think it was the hub moving, b/c in the video you can see the crank timing chain sprocket move as well, and I just took of the timing chain cover and that sprocket is sturdy. However... See attached pic for evidence of maybe a wrong sized key? The end of it is rounded off, and the CPS reluctor wheel is pretty tore up too. Also attached is a pic of the hub bolt. Which I don't think had bottomed out, being that when I reinserted it after hub removal it threaded in deeper.
Again, whats the downside to just removing the CPS and tuning it out? Any opinions?
Yeah, I dont think it was the hub moving, b/c in the video you can see the crank timing chain sprocket move as well, and I just took of the timing chain cover and that sprocket is sturdy. However... See attached pic for evidence of maybe a wrong sized key? The end of it is rounded off, and the CPS reluctor wheel is pretty tore up too. Also attached is a pic of the hub bolt. Which I don't think had bottomed out, being that when I reinserted it after hub removal it threaded in deeper.
Again, whats the downside to just removing the CPS and tuning it out? Any opinions?
No, on a 96-97 the key sticks out a bit further than the crank gear to hold the reluctor in place. The reluctor also has a keyway in it.
It definitely looks damaged in that pic OP, it should be squared off. That would definitely cause play in the reluctor. The hub also holds it tight against the crank wheel, it looked like yours might not have been bottomed out all the way with how much it was moving around in your vid.
It definitely looks damaged in that pic OP, it should be squared off. That would definitely cause play in the reluctor. The hub also holds it tight against the crank wheel, it looked like yours might not have been bottomed out all the way with how much it was moving around in your vid.
