Engine drop.. Remove with coil overs attached or separate steering knuckle?
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 62
From: Little Rock, AR
I detached the shocks at the top and left the wheels on. That way, there is no need for any dolly under the front-only under the trans. The shocks will try to flop around a little, but you can manage that with some straps and blocks of wood. Throw your STB on it when the engine is off and it is very mobile.
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Last edited by shbox; Aug 1, 2014 at 10:29 PM.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 62
From: Little Rock, AR
I used a floor jack carefully under the k-member with jackstands and wood blocks under the fender jack pads as I went up. Did all my k-member bolt disconnecting (with it supported), then lowered it from the car with the floor jack.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 62
From: Little Rock, AR
Example.
The top of the intake just has to clear the underside of the front.
I've done it both ways and prefer to separate the knuckles instead of having to mess around with unbolting the struts from the towers. It's just easier for me especially when putting everything back together once the k-member is back in place.
Every out the bottom thread I've seen people put the back wheels on ramps or other wheels or whatever then have to jack the front up forever high using an engine hoist and it just is not necessary. My car is lowered and I was able to get the engine out with the back wheels on the ground and using 2 blocks of 2X4 each on two floor jacks which were positioned just behind the plastic pads underneath the chassis. It can be a pain if you're doing it by yourself, but get two people involved and the car will be high enough to clear the acc. bracket if it's still on the engine. If there is difficulty with clearing the air dam it can be taken off, but the point is the car does not have to be jacked to kingdom come in order to remove the engine from below. The key is to take the front wheels off and use a furniture dolly.
Every out the bottom thread I've seen people put the back wheels on ramps or other wheels or whatever then have to jack the front up forever high using an engine hoist and it just is not necessary. My car is lowered and I was able to get the engine out with the back wheels on the ground and using 2 blocks of 2X4 each on two floor jacks which were positioned just behind the plastic pads underneath the chassis. It can be a pain if you're doing it by yourself, but get two people involved and the car will be high enough to clear the acc. bracket if it's still on the engine. If there is difficulty with clearing the air dam it can be taken off, but the point is the car does not have to be jacked to kingdom come in order to remove the engine from below. The key is to take the front wheels off and use a furniture dolly.
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I've done it both ways and prefer to separate the knuckles instead of having to mess around with unbolting the struts from the towers. It's just easier for me especially when putting everything back together once the k-member is back in place.
Every out the bottom thread I've seen people put the back wheels on ramps or other wheels or whatever then have to jack the front up forever high using an engine hoist and it just is not necessary. My car is lowered and I was able to get the engine out with the back wheels on the ground and using 2 blocks of 2X4 each on two floor jacks which were positioned just behind the plastic pads underneath the chassis. It can be a pain if you're doing it by yourself, but get two people involved and the car will be high enough to clear the acc. bracket if it's still on the engine. If there is difficulty with clearing the air dam it can be taken off, but the point is the car does not have to be jacked to kingdom come in order to remove the engine from below. The key is to take the front wheels off and use a furniture dolly.
Every out the bottom thread I've seen people put the back wheels on ramps or other wheels or whatever then have to jack the front up forever high using an engine hoist and it just is not necessary. My car is lowered and I was able to get the engine out with the back wheels on the ground and using 2 blocks of 2X4 each on two floor jacks which were positioned just behind the plastic pads underneath the chassis. It can be a pain if you're doing it by yourself, but get two people involved and the car will be high enough to clear the acc. bracket if it's still on the engine. If there is difficulty with clearing the air dam it can be taken off, but the point is the car does not have to be jacked to kingdom come in order to remove the engine from below. The key is to take the front wheels off and use a furniture dolly.
I know that everybody has their own solutions to problems, and when looking at the pix you posted in the other thread, about dropping the engine out the bottom, I, personally, would add one word of serious caution....
When leaving the rear wheels on the ground, and jacking just the front, it puts the car at a very steep angle with the ground. Yes, this does provide a few more inches of clearance at the front, where it's needed, but it limits your ability to get the proper jack stands, or other supports, squarely against the bottom of the car. In other words, I think the stability of the car might be questionable. Secondly, the K-member is also at the same angle during removal/replacement. It HAS to be a handful.....
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,147
Likes: 62
From: Little Rock, AR
The bottom of my k-member is as low to the ground with the wheels on as it would be with any dolly under it. Actually, I just measured my furniture dolly and it is 1 inch higher than the space under my k-member. My car is slightly lower than stock ride height, so it would probably work under a stock ride height car.
Secondly, the K-member is also at the same angle during removal/replacement. It HAS to be a handful.....
The bottom of my k-member is as low to the ground with the wheels on as it would be with any dolly under it. Actually, I just measured my furniture dolly and it is 1 inch higher than the space under my k-member. My car is slightly lower than stock ride height, so it would probably work under a stock ride height car.
Yes. Take the wheels off, lower car/k-member onto dolly, unbolt and lift off. Installation is opposite, and what's nice about the dolly is the k-member is mobile so it makes it really easy to align while lowering the chassis.