Valve spring and cam help
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2014
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Valve spring and cam help Bought a new cam. Its a comp cam extreme energy. Duration at .050 is 236 Intake & 244 Exhaust. 624/.579 LSA 112. Its going on a 94 LT1 but my question is what valve springs to use on this. Lift i put should be with 1.6 rockers Im on a tight budget....
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
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on your cam card it would note a minimum spring # to use
.624 intake lift...need a spring capable of that. 26918 "bee hive" max at .625 so those would not work
are you sure .624 lift is right with 1:6 RR?
tight budget and good springs....don't really go together
.624 intake lift...need a spring capable of that. 26918 "bee hive" max at .625 so those would not work
are you sure .624 lift is right with 1:6 RR?
tight budget and good springs....don't really go together
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
Bought it used from a friend. Dont have cam card. Ok forget the budget part i can get cash anyway. Friend had it on his lt1 with the lift at .624/579 1.6RR i will probably be using the stock 1.5s for now.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: centerville, ohio
What does Comp recommend ?
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Verdad Gallardo Then return it. If you want a catalog Comp cam just do the 503, intake duration on it is 224degrees and you will likely still turn the motor 6500 which is enough for a 20 year old motor that from GM had rev limits in the 55-5800rpm range.
For a stock shortblock 350 that cam is 10 degrees too much duration, I don't care what Comp told you the rpm range was, they were wrong. They seem to post rpm ranges carried over from their gen 1 SBC stuff which is usually rated with dual plane intakes which pull the rpm range down a LOT compared to the LT1 intake. A lot of us spin cams under 230degrees on the intake all the way to 7000rpm.
For a stock shortblock 350 that cam is 10 degrees too much duration, I don't care what Comp told you the rpm range was, they were wrong. They seem to post rpm ranges carried over from their gen 1 SBC stuff which is usually rated with dual plane intakes which pull the rpm range down a LOT compared to the LT1 intake. A lot of us spin cams under 230degrees on the intake all the way to 7000rpm.
To even try and effectively use that cam you are looking at a full stroker build with ported heads, meaning you "saved" $150 on the wrong cam only to have to spend an extra $10K to use it by the time you do the whole engine, tranny axle, suspension, fuel system etc.
If this posts makes you want to argue then my advise is sell the car as soon as possible.
If this posts makes you want to argue then my advise is sell the car as soon as possible.
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
OP
sell that cam and get your $100 back or chalk it up to a learning experience
while many people make off the shelf cam selections for a build with very good results....you should consider contacting a company like Elliott Portworks or Advanced Induction for a "matched" head & cam package for your specific needs (DD, street/strip or full race). Assuming your short block is in good order, you need "supporting" mods (higher stall TC if automatic car, lower rear gears, suspension and rear end upgrades, headers/exhaust, larger injectors, tune, etc)
sell that cam and get your $100 back or chalk it up to a learning experience
while many people make off the shelf cam selections for a build with very good results....you should consider contacting a company like Elliott Portworks or Advanced Induction for a "matched" head & cam package for your specific needs (DD, street/strip or full race). Assuming your short block is in good order, you need "supporting" mods (higher stall TC if automatic car, lower rear gears, suspension and rear end upgrades, headers/exhaust, larger injectors, tune, etc)
Sounds like you need to slow your roll and do some research first! 
