need help on high compression lt1 build
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Joined: Nov 2014
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@bufmatmuslepants, after my outburst in my first reply i decided i'd stop seeing replies as people being dicks. but honestly by the replies im getting im beginning to feel like i can't even follow an application guide from a parts retailer so im just going to call a shop and have them spec me out a build.
now i ask this genuinely and not intending to be rude but why do all of the following places i just listed have that camshaft as for the lt1? because if every vender i just looked at has their application guide wrong, including comp cams themselves, someone needs to call these people for severely miss listing product applications. summitracing "Make:CHEVROLET
Beginning Year:1991
Ending Year:1996
Engine Type:V8
Liter:5.7
CID:350
Engine Size:5.7L/350
Engine Family:Chevy small block Gen II (LT-based engines)
Camshaft Usage:Street"
jegs http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/...rentProductId= "COMP Cams#249-K07-464-8
XFI Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Complete Kit
GM LT1 & LT4 350ci 1993-96 •Lift: .550"/.546" With 1.6 Rockers
•Duration: 252°/264°
•Lobe Separation Angle: 113°
•RPM Range: 1000-5000"
comp cams catalog http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP...11_184-185.pdf "GM LT 1 & LT 4 350 C.I. 8 CYL. 1995-1997 XTREME FUEL INJECTION (XFI™) APPLICATION / CAMSHAFTS
HYDRAULIC ROLLER − Excellent torque and
economy with noticeable horsepower gains. Hyd. Hyd. 1000 to 5000 07-464-8 252XFI HR13 252 264 202 212 .550 .546 113°
oreilly auto parts, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...260P&ppt=C0382
cnc motorsports, http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/comp-...-camshaft.html Comp Cams 07-464-8 Xtreme Fuel Injection Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Small Block Chevy LT1 and LT4 (1995-97), Hydraulic, 1000 to 5000 RPM Range, .550 Int .546 Ex Lift
tennessee speed sport, http://www.tennesseespeedsport.com/C...-Camshaft.html
Part Number: COM07-464-8 Application; Chevy 350ci LT1 & LT4 1993-97
Xtreme Fuel Injection Camshaft; Hyd. Roller; 1000-5000rpm; Adv. Dur. 252 Int./264 Exh.; Valve Lift .550 Int./.546 Exh.; Lobe Angle 113 deg.;
tick performance,http://www.tickperformance.com/comp-...r-13-07-464-8/ COMP Cams Camshaft, Lt1 252Xfi Hr-13 # 07-464-8
now i ask this genuinely and not intending to be rude but why do all of the following places i just listed have that camshaft as for the lt1? because if every vender i just looked at has their application guide wrong, including comp cams themselves, someone needs to call these people for severely miss listing product applications. summitracing "Make:CHEVROLET
Beginning Year:1991
Ending Year:1996
Engine Type:V8
Liter:5.7
CID:350
Engine Size:5.7L/350
Engine Family:Chevy small block Gen II (LT-based engines)
Camshaft Usage:Street"
jegs http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/...rentProductId= "COMP Cams#249-K07-464-8
XFI Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Complete Kit
GM LT1 & LT4 350ci 1993-96 •Lift: .550"/.546" With 1.6 Rockers
•Duration: 252°/264°
•Lobe Separation Angle: 113°
•RPM Range: 1000-5000"
comp cams catalog http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP...11_184-185.pdf "GM LT 1 & LT 4 350 C.I. 8 CYL. 1995-1997 XTREME FUEL INJECTION (XFI™) APPLICATION / CAMSHAFTS
HYDRAULIC ROLLER − Excellent torque and
economy with noticeable horsepower gains. Hyd. Hyd. 1000 to 5000 07-464-8 252XFI HR13 252 264 202 212 .550 .546 113°
oreilly auto parts, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...260P&ppt=C0382
cnc motorsports, http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/comp-...-camshaft.html Comp Cams 07-464-8 Xtreme Fuel Injection Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Small Block Chevy LT1 and LT4 (1995-97), Hydraulic, 1000 to 5000 RPM Range, .550 Int .546 Ex Lift
tennessee speed sport, http://www.tennesseespeedsport.com/C...-Camshaft.html
Part Number: COM07-464-8 Application; Chevy 350ci LT1 & LT4 1993-97
Xtreme Fuel Injection Camshaft; Hyd. Roller; 1000-5000rpm; Adv. Dur. 252 Int./264 Exh.; Valve Lift .550 Int./.546 Exh.; Lobe Angle 113 deg.;
tick performance,http://www.tickperformance.com/comp-...r-13-07-464-8/ COMP Cams Camshaft, Lt1 252Xfi Hr-13 # 07-464-8
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this forum is full of great people. i've been reading posts here for years, and know for a fact you guys know your stuff when it comes to these cars. but i gotta be honest, from the replies i've gotten i feel so far out of my depth that it seems like i know nothing about cars at all. now i accept i was wrong about what i originally posted, but to be told the camshaft i have been looking at and is listed at all the retailers i listed isnt even for my engine? i think im gonna stop posting and wasting the forums time, because if i can't even come up with the right parts then i can't ask you guys the right questions and am just wasting your time. thank you for the honest replies on my ideas though.
Don't give up on the forums. Don't give up researching. Don't give up learning. Take each persons advice with a grain of salt, more like an idea for you to expand on and research. The point of the harsh posts above was to just get you to slow down. If you read through the pages of other threads you'll see that we too often see guys who buy a ton of parts, the wrong parts, then come here for finishing details or looking for a pat on the back, or come asking why their 383 cast eagle crank only ran 13s then blew up. You've gotten the message to slow down, now lets build a car.
Your goal was a HP number, a lofty one, over 500rwhp on pump gas, NA, that can be a DD, costing $8-12000. Caprices point about saying 500 was that if you've never driven a 400rwhp 3300lb car, you probably don't understand that 400rwhp in a properly set up 3300lb car will smoke almost anything off the showroom floor under $60,000. LT1s have the advantage of reverse flow cooling, meaning lower combustion temps, capable of higher compression on pump gas. 95ramairTA has a basic 383, forged bottom end, 12.7:1, AI 200cc ported stock heads, and put 455rwhp through a 4l60e and a 9", and runs mid 10s. Honestly, for your budget, buy his car, he's only asking $9000, and the car is beautiful and done. The stock GM cast crank will not fail, so if stock stroke is what you want, a 355 or 357, use that with some forged 6" rods, off the shelf Mahle -5cc pistons, 0.026 head gasket, .01 below deck, with AI200 or trick flow ported by AI or LE, their custom cam, and you'll be at 425-450rwhp. Want more? Or your stock crank is trashed? Go with a forged 3.75 or 3.875" crank, and get a 383 or 396, and be closer to 450-475. Using a 65 cc chamber requires big dome pistons, which are not as efficient as flat tops and cost way more money than off the shelf very common -5cc pistons.
Using a builder to spec your motor is not wise with an LT1, they are the bastard child of the sbc world, everyone either knows LS or sbc, and the LT has enough differences that you will end up with a not optimal setup. Keep doing research, talk to builders if you want, but nail down exactly what your after before laying down hard earned cash. 425rwhp in a 3300lb properly set up car will run high 10s. Not happy with that? Throw a 100-150 shot on it and run 9s when you need it, and be daily driveable still.
Your goal was a HP number, a lofty one, over 500rwhp on pump gas, NA, that can be a DD, costing $8-12000. Caprices point about saying 500 was that if you've never driven a 400rwhp 3300lb car, you probably don't understand that 400rwhp in a properly set up 3300lb car will smoke almost anything off the showroom floor under $60,000. LT1s have the advantage of reverse flow cooling, meaning lower combustion temps, capable of higher compression on pump gas. 95ramairTA has a basic 383, forged bottom end, 12.7:1, AI 200cc ported stock heads, and put 455rwhp through a 4l60e and a 9", and runs mid 10s. Honestly, for your budget, buy his car, he's only asking $9000, and the car is beautiful and done. The stock GM cast crank will not fail, so if stock stroke is what you want, a 355 or 357, use that with some forged 6" rods, off the shelf Mahle -5cc pistons, 0.026 head gasket, .01 below deck, with AI200 or trick flow ported by AI or LE, their custom cam, and you'll be at 425-450rwhp. Want more? Or your stock crank is trashed? Go with a forged 3.75 or 3.875" crank, and get a 383 or 396, and be closer to 450-475. Using a 65 cc chamber requires big dome pistons, which are not as efficient as flat tops and cost way more money than off the shelf very common -5cc pistons.
Using a builder to spec your motor is not wise with an LT1, they are the bastard child of the sbc world, everyone either knows LS or sbc, and the LT has enough differences that you will end up with a not optimal setup. Keep doing research, talk to builders if you want, but nail down exactly what your after before laying down hard earned cash. 425rwhp in a 3300lb properly set up car will run high 10s. Not happy with that? Throw a 100-150 shot on it and run 9s when you need it, and be daily driveable still.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; Nov 5, 2014 at 05:30 AM.
And for the cam you picked, its got a little more lift but almost the same duration as stock, stock is 0.450/0.460 .202/.207, that cam is a great upgrade for a 305, not our motors, you probably wouldn't feel much of a difference and would have gone through all that trouble of swapping cams. It may "fit" an lt1, but I may fit in ladies size 12 heels, but that doesn't mean they are better for running a 100 meter dash than a pair of new balances.
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Maricopa, AZ
Don't give up on the forums. Don't give up researching. Don't give up learning. Take each persons advice with a grain of salt, more like an idea for you to expand on and research. The point of the harsh posts above was to just get you to slow down. If you read through the pages of other threads you'll see that we too often see guys who buy a ton of parts, the wrong parts, then come here for finishing details or looking for a pat on the back, or come asking why their 383 cast eagle crank only ran 13s then blew up. You've gotten the message to slow down, now lets build a car.
Your goal was a HP number, a lofty one, over 500rwhp on pump gas, NA, that can be a DD, costing $8-12000. Caprices point about saying 500 was that if you've never driven a 400rwhp 3300lb car, you probably don't understand that 400rwhp in a properly set up 3300lb car will smoke almost anything off the showroom floor under $60,000. LT1s have the advantage of reverse flow cooling, meaning lower combustion temps, capable of higher compression on pump gas. 95ramairTA has a basic 383, forged bottom end, 12.7:1, AI 200cc ported stock heads, and put 455rwhp through a 4l60e and a 9", and runs mid 10s. Honestly, for your budget, buy his car, he's only asking $9000, and the car is beautiful and done. The stock GM cast crank will not fail, so if stock stroke is what you want, a 355 or 357, use that with some forged 6" rods, off the shelf Mahle -5cc pistons, 0.026 head gasket, .01 below deck, with AI200 or trick flow ported by AI or LE, their custom cam, and you'll be at 425-450rwhp. Want more? Or your stock crank is trashed? Go with a forged 3.75 or 3.875" crank, and get a 383 or 396, and be closer to 450-475. Using a 65 cc chamber requires big dome pistons, which are not as efficient as flat tops and cost way more money than off the shelf very common -5cc pistons.
Using a builder to spec your motor is not wise with an LT1, they are the bastard child of the sbc world, everyone either knows LS or sbc, and the LT has enough differences that you will end up with a not optimal setup. Keep doing research, talk to builders if you want, but nail down exactly what your after before laying down hard earned cash. 425rwhp in a 3300lb properly set up car will run high 10s. Not happy with that? Throw a 100-150 shot on it and run 9s when you need it, and be daily driveable still.
Your goal was a HP number, a lofty one, over 500rwhp on pump gas, NA, that can be a DD, costing $8-12000. Caprices point about saying 500 was that if you've never driven a 400rwhp 3300lb car, you probably don't understand that 400rwhp in a properly set up 3300lb car will smoke almost anything off the showroom floor under $60,000. LT1s have the advantage of reverse flow cooling, meaning lower combustion temps, capable of higher compression on pump gas. 95ramairTA has a basic 383, forged bottom end, 12.7:1, AI 200cc ported stock heads, and put 455rwhp through a 4l60e and a 9", and runs mid 10s. Honestly, for your budget, buy his car, he's only asking $9000, and the car is beautiful and done. The stock GM cast crank will not fail, so if stock stroke is what you want, a 355 or 357, use that with some forged 6" rods, off the shelf Mahle -5cc pistons, 0.026 head gasket, .01 below deck, with AI200 or trick flow ported by AI or LE, their custom cam, and you'll be at 425-450rwhp. Want more? Or your stock crank is trashed? Go with a forged 3.75 or 3.875" crank, and get a 383 or 396, and be closer to 450-475. Using a 65 cc chamber requires big dome pistons, which are not as efficient as flat tops and cost way more money than off the shelf very common -5cc pistons.
Using a builder to spec your motor is not wise with an LT1, they are the bastard child of the sbc world, everyone either knows LS or sbc, and the LT has enough differences that you will end up with a not optimal setup. Keep doing research, talk to builders if you want, but nail down exactly what your after before laying down hard earned cash. 425rwhp in a 3300lb properly set up car will run high 10s. Not happy with that? Throw a 100-150 shot on it and run 9s when you need it, and be daily driveable still.
OP, you got $8-12K? Get that car.
You want to build it your self? Completely understandable, I'm the same way. Put together the list of parts Buf just laid out for you.
If you do want to build your own, I think you should go 355 (~$1.5 machine work, ~$1K in the short block for parts and rebuild kit), have AI or LE do a heads cam package for you (~1.6-$2K), add all the extra's to make it work (exhaust, headers, CAI, fuel pump, injectors, etc ~$1.5K), get the trans built (~$2K), a higher stall (~$1K), throw in an S60 (~$2.5K), C5 brakes, suspension (TQ. Arm, LCA's, Panhard, Springs, Shocks, etc. ~$1.5-$2K), and do all the labor yourself.
You should be in the 400-450rwhp range, DD capable, and it'll be a strong runner for sure, $13K add another $2-3K for ohh **** I need that stuff.
With some savvy shopping on Craiglist and these forums you can find some wicked deals. I was able to build my Engine (including fuel pump, injectors, full exhaust, et al.) for ~$4.5K. I built my trans (T56) with performance clutch for $1400. You can build your own 4L60, it's pretty easy ( I did my Suburbans to a "stage 2" level for <$300 including fluids).
Keep with these forums, we are here to help. Well, they are. I try.
Last edited by hrcslam; Nov 5, 2014 at 09:07 AM.
95RamAirs TA is the best automotive deal I've seen in a long time, and I've been messing with LT1s for 10 years.
Would be more then double what he is asking to do it yourself, and its already dialed in and everything.
Would be more then double what he is asking to do it yourself, and its already dialed in and everything.
You could definitely hit your target with a stock shortblock, thicker head gaskets, heads with larger chambers (the Trick Flow 195s are the best shelf option at 62cc as cast-- can be had for pretty cheap used), a baby cam, and turbo/supercharger. Your quench would probably be **** but that doesn't matter as much with forced induction. Only place it might be detrimental is at low RPM but that "quench" talk applies more to old small blocks with carbs that don't atomize fuel as well down low and crappy head design.