LT1 Nitrous Application Questions
LT1 Nitrous Application Questions I've finally reached the point in my build, where I'm ready to install the Nitrous Oxide system on my 94 z28.
The motor and fuel system components, right down to file fit rings, were all chosen and professionally built with the intent of running NOS. A full rundown of my build can be found in my profile.
I have chosen a fairly small and basic NOS kit produced by ZEX:
http://www.zex.com/zx/wet-ls1-ls6-ni...-75-125hphtml/
For those of you who have or do run NOS regularly, I'm looking for a little help to complete my project.
1) In terms of efficiency, how much of the bottle capacity can I expect to consider available with a kit like this?
2a) Myth of Fact, at something near or greater than 1/2 the remaining bottle capacity, the line pressure will not be great enough to open the Solenoids, rendering the system inoperable until the bottle is refilled?
2b) Should a NANO Co2 system be installed to hold line pressure so the entire bottle can be evacuated? Suggestions on a good NANO kit?
2c) NANO vs a Bottle Heater? do ambient environmental conditions impact one more than the other?
3) Are there critical items not included in this kit that I should buy separate (aside from the gauge)?
4) Is a purge kit necessary, there isn't one in the kit I have. With a small kit like this, can it be purged in to the motor, or purged external if purging is necessary.
5) Should the car go back on the DYNO after the installation is complete?
6) Anything I'm missing, either in my motor/fuel systems set up? Any other questions I should be asking???
Thanks!!
Jason
The motor and fuel system components, right down to file fit rings, were all chosen and professionally built with the intent of running NOS. A full rundown of my build can be found in my profile.
I have chosen a fairly small and basic NOS kit produced by ZEX:
http://www.zex.com/zx/wet-ls1-ls6-ni...-75-125hphtml/
For those of you who have or do run NOS regularly, I'm looking for a little help to complete my project.
1) In terms of efficiency, how much of the bottle capacity can I expect to consider available with a kit like this?
2a) Myth of Fact, at something near or greater than 1/2 the remaining bottle capacity, the line pressure will not be great enough to open the Solenoids, rendering the system inoperable until the bottle is refilled?
2b) Should a NANO Co2 system be installed to hold line pressure so the entire bottle can be evacuated? Suggestions on a good NANO kit?
2c) NANO vs a Bottle Heater? do ambient environmental conditions impact one more than the other?
3) Are there critical items not included in this kit that I should buy separate (aside from the gauge)?
4) Is a purge kit necessary, there isn't one in the kit I have. With a small kit like this, can it be purged in to the motor, or purged external if purging is necessary.
5) Should the car go back on the DYNO after the installation is complete?
6) Anything I'm missing, either in my motor/fuel systems set up? Any other questions I should be asking???
Thanks!!
Jason
Last edited by JL_94z28; Jan 12, 2015 at 07:23 PM.
1) Half to two thirds without the Nano kit. The lower you run it, the more your air/fuel mixture will richen during the run. With Nano, all of it.
2a) Myth. High pressure from too much bottle heat can affect solenoid operation. Low pressure from a half empty bottle will not hinder their operation whatsoever.
2b) I wouldn't do the Nano on a basic system like this. Run very conservative timing and tune for the lean side (12.0 minimum AFR)with max bottle temp & pressure, knowing that it will go richer during the run. People I personally know that have used the Nano system have gone away from it. It doubles the complication/hassles of running nitrous.
2c) Bottle heater on a pressure limiting circuit is my preference.
3) 1- an inline filter after the bottle to protect the solenoids from debris which could hang them open.
2- Possibly a FPSS. This is debatable, because with a stock fuel system as you approach a 150 shot, the fuel pressure will pulse from the initial fuel solenoid opening and you have to set it down near 30 psi to prevent the system from cycling off and on.
4) Not necessary, but recommended. Only purge "into the motor" with a wide open throttle stab. I've run without purge up to 100 shots on mild motors where you can get rid of it on the return road.
5) Yes. And find the MINIMUM timing you can run and still make close to the max power. Most people err with too much timing and too much fuel. The opposite is safer.
2a) Myth. High pressure from too much bottle heat can affect solenoid operation. Low pressure from a half empty bottle will not hinder their operation whatsoever.
2b) I wouldn't do the Nano on a basic system like this. Run very conservative timing and tune for the lean side (12.0 minimum AFR)with max bottle temp & pressure, knowing that it will go richer during the run. People I personally know that have used the Nano system have gone away from it. It doubles the complication/hassles of running nitrous.
2c) Bottle heater on a pressure limiting circuit is my preference.
3) 1- an inline filter after the bottle to protect the solenoids from debris which could hang them open.
2- Possibly a FPSS. This is debatable, because with a stock fuel system as you approach a 150 shot, the fuel pressure will pulse from the initial fuel solenoid opening and you have to set it down near 30 psi to prevent the system from cycling off and on.
4) Not necessary, but recommended. Only purge "into the motor" with a wide open throttle stab. I've run without purge up to 100 shots on mild motors where you can get rid of it on the return road.
5) Yes. And find the MINIMUM timing you can run and still make close to the max power. Most people err with too much timing and too much fuel. The opposite is safer.
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: In the moment...
1) Half to two thirds without the Nano kit. The lower you run it, the more your air/fuel mixture will richen during the run. With Nano, all of it.
2a) Myth. High pressure from too much bottle heat can affect solenoid operation. Low pressure from a half empty bottle will not hinder their operation whatsoever.
2b) I wouldn't do the Nano on a basic system like this. Run very conservative timing and tune for the lean side (12.0 minimum AFR)with max bottle temp & pressure, knowing that it will go richer during the run. People I personally know that have used the Nano system have gone away from it. It doubles the complication/hassles of running nitrous.
2c) Bottle heater on a pressure limiting circuit is my preference.
3) 1- an inline filter after the bottle to protect the solenoids from debris which could hang them open.
2- Possibly a FPSS. This is debatable, because with a stock fuel system as you approach a 150 shot, the fuel pressure will pulse from the initial fuel solenoid opening and you have to set it down near 30 psi to prevent the system from cycling off and on.
4) Not necessary, but recommended. Only purge "into the motor" with a wide open throttle stab. I've run without purge up to 100 shots on mild motors where you can get rid of it on the return road.
5) Yes. And find the MINIMUM timing you can run and still make close to the max power. Most people err with too much timing and too much fuel. The opposite is safer.
2a) Myth. High pressure from too much bottle heat can affect solenoid operation. Low pressure from a half empty bottle will not hinder their operation whatsoever.
2b) I wouldn't do the Nano on a basic system like this. Run very conservative timing and tune for the lean side (12.0 minimum AFR)with max bottle temp & pressure, knowing that it will go richer during the run. People I personally know that have used the Nano system have gone away from it. It doubles the complication/hassles of running nitrous.
2c) Bottle heater on a pressure limiting circuit is my preference.
3) 1- an inline filter after the bottle to protect the solenoids from debris which could hang them open.
2- Possibly a FPSS. This is debatable, because with a stock fuel system as you approach a 150 shot, the fuel pressure will pulse from the initial fuel solenoid opening and you have to set it down near 30 psi to prevent the system from cycling off and on.
4) Not necessary, but recommended. Only purge "into the motor" with a wide open throttle stab. I've run without purge up to 100 shots on mild motors where you can get rid of it on the return road.
5) Yes. And find the MINIMUM timing you can run and still make close to the max power. Most people err with too much timing and too much fuel. The opposite is safer.
