~Edited 1/28/14:Added a short video of the Kooks TDE
So I decided to get Kooks stepped 1 3/4 to 1 7/8's x 3 Race Headers for my car after getting some feedback from this thread here. https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...l#post18569215 Before starting the install of these headers I went to Hires Speed Shop and talked to Joe. I wanted to get his input on what header gaskets to run with these headers. He didn't have any gaskets in stock that matched very well from the smaller head port to the bigger header primary. After I showed Joe the Kooks multi-layer gaskets they sent with the headers he said those should work fine. I was just told I should put some high temp copper permatex on it for good measure.

Fast forward to the end of the install and first I run into the hiccup of not pulling the long oil filter I was running off and the header was butting up right on the bottom of the oil filter. It didn't hit enough to notice at first until I was done installing the headers. I pull the driver side back off and now I needed a new gasket for that side. The Kooks multi-layer gasket has very thin and flimsy layers and can't be reused. After reading what gasket to use online I decided to try the Percy's Seal For Good gasket for that side. Well, last night I get everything bolted on and ready "Open Header" and fire it up to check for leaks and now I have a damn leak on the driver side top dead center of cylinder 1. I didn't use permatex on the Percy's gasket because it says that they are reusable. Do you guys think I should put some permatex on that gasket and reinstall or let the headers actually heat cycle and see if I can tighten them a little more first? That is the only leak. After reading that people have problems with Kooks gaskets and having good luck with others, the Kooks gasket is the one that is sealed.

EDITED:1/28/14 ~Exhaust Leak Fixed~ cause of leak:improper install
I have everything on the car exhaust wise installed other than waiting on the Flowmaster Scavenger Series turn downs. Kooks stepped race headers and Kooks TDE. Only thing else I am wanting to do is put the Chris1313 ram air on. I got that in yesterday evening. Hopefully will have everything finished up this weekend. Here is a short clip of the car cold start and idling. Car sounds better in person but if you have headphones are a sub to hear the bass, it makes it is not far off from hearing it in person.


Here are a few pictures of how the exhaust turned out.




Flowmaster Scavenger series turn down painted silver. That is a first gen and fifth gen Camaro under those two car covers.





another under car picture.





Car on the groud. Turn downs are tucked up pretty nice.

 

Not surprising.
From my experience, as long as you have quality straight header flanges, the thinner the gasket the better. In fact, I've found nothing better than the laminated sheetmetal shims that come stock with manifolds!

 

The Kooks gaskets worked great for me. i have also used Felpros with good luck.Without any other sealants. The most important thing is to tighten them pretty much as tight as you can from the inside out.

 

I have pacesetter headers but I use copper gaskets, I've used the same set of gaskets on all of my header swaps.. Just make sure the headers are tight.. I had a leak before and I started the car and tightend up the bolts util it went away..

 

I will strong arm it and see if i can make it stop. If not, I will do what I have done before. TAKE IT BACK APART!

 

I don't know if I'd want to "strong arm" bolts into an aluminum cylinder head. Is there enough room for you to install studs into the head, and then use nuts on the studs? That way, if you strip the nut, or the stud, you can unscrew the stud without damaging the head itself.

 

If a composite/paper/soft material gasket has leaked it is likely burnt and tightening wont help.
Many gaskets compress causing bolts to have less torque on them requiring retightening, bolts don't back out till they lose torque. Retightening any compressible gasket is just a good practice.

Best gasket I have found was Earl's Pressure Master, expensive and forgiving, next time though I want to try Pat's recommendation of stock gaskets, they were afterall good enough for an extended emissions warranty.

 

Don't do that. As said above, just get a good set of new gaskets, and put them on. Done.

 

Ok I will heat cycle it and see if they budge at all. No strong arm lol. If I can't get that driver side to seal I will try the last one I have. They are the Percy's seal for good. I thought those were good. I just want to get that driver side sealed up so I can move on to installing the Kooks true duals.

 

The Percy's are good gaskets. No trouble on my Kooks headers with them. You did get the LT1/LT4 version of the Percy's gaskets correct? I also recommend getting ARP 1" stainless header bolts. They allow for a 7" 5/16" boxed end wrench to be used to tighten them. Like this....

http://www.ace1252.com/images/1996_L...s/DSCN3919.JPG

Also, be sure to tighten the bolts from the center of the head out.

 

Well I am going to just pull that header loose and inspect the gasket. I will most likely try the new one I still have left. I will post up on Saturday and let you guys know if I got it sealed up.

 

+1 on the Earls, I have used them on multiple cars and never had one blow out/leak. Plus, you can just buy the inserts if you need replacements.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%...9DA3B/10002/-1

 

I'm running gaskets from Remflex on my current setup, both header and collector gaskets. I've had really good luck with them thus far, no leaks anywhere that I've found. Just make sure to follow their instructions during install for procedure and torque.

I ran the percey's dead soft aluminum gaskets on both the headers and collectors on my old engine and they leaked all the time.

http://catalog.remflex.com/CHEVROLET...ket_p/2022.htm

 

after a couple of heat cycles, re-tighten header bolts. I bought a long handle 5/16" box I use

FWIW I have always just used the FelPro 1470's and never had one leak

OP

might want to lay a metal straight edge across your header flange to confirm it is flat

 

Ok so I got a lot done on my car today. Including fixing the header leak. I PUT THE GASKET ON UPSIDE DOWN. Retard. Or should I say RATARD. my only excuse is working 9 hours that day, doing a serious leg workout for two hours and then working on my car around midnight that night. Nedless to say I flipped the gasket around and no leaks. The Kooks true duals are installed loosely to the rear axle. The kit was originally for a LS1 so we had to do a little fabbing. Came out perfect though. Hanging the rear section tomorrow. I will get some pics and a video when it is done. Go pro time after that!

 

I've used them before great gaskets..

 

IMHO
Use percys aluminum gaskets. Think you said you already had them.
First make sure that the flange is straight and not warped. Kooks, I bet their perfectly fine.
Cut the flange on the headers between 1-3, 5-7, 2-4, 6-8 with reciprocating saw. What this does is allows all of the ports to seal individually, and you do not have to worry about a tightening sequence or anything.
Then get arp 1" 5/16 bolts. They are A LOT easier to get to and tighten.
Do not need to use any permatex

 

Worked on the car with my Dad for almost a total of 7 hours yesterday. Three hours the day before. I don't think I could be much happier with how it all turned out. I just have one small leak that will be fixed with a preformed band clamp and waiting on the exhaust turn downs to show up from Jegs. I went with turn downs because the previous owner of the exhaust had the rear SLP CME exhaust welded on it and he cut that off and sold it separate from the Kooks exhaust I bought. That left me with just two short stubs right after the mufflers to work with. The Kooks mufflers are tucked tight to the top of the car so with two of the Flowmaster Scavenger series turn downs you wont even be able to see them unless you are bent down looking underneath the car. I will get a few videos soon.

 

another +1 for the remflex! I have them on both of my cars and not a problem.

OP. I would also check the face of the flange and make sure that its flat. If its warped you can bring it to a machine shop and they should be able to hit it on a big sand paper belt.

 

I added a video of the car in my first post. ~~HEADER LEAK IS FIXED~~!!!! You have to remember to put the gasket on right! I have had good luck with Remflex and Percy's "when installed right!"