Hello everyone, i just purchased a low mile lt1 out of a 95 Corvette to swap into my 95 TA due to a blown head gasket and some other internal issues......My question to you guys with experience in building these motors, what is a good top end upgrade kit? What i am looking for are springs, push rods, lifters and a cam. I am also going to add a set of long tube headers and CAI. I am not looking for a 500 HP motor, just a nice street able upgrade from factory, something that sounds good and has the power. Right now my car is an automatic and from what i know it has been built some, not sure of the exact details but from driving i can tell its not a stock tranny. What would be the best mild setup from what i have told you? Also, the best place to order from also...Thanks everyone...

 

Considering all you want to do, I'm kinda wondering why you didn't just get a 5.3 or 6L junkyard engine or even just and LS1 and make the swap.

That said, if you're going to tear this engine down anyway, I'd seriously consider lowing the compression. Doing that will allow you to add more upgrades, like an actual power adder, w/ less concern for another blown gasket. I'd probably also look into head gaskets like Cometic.

For less than 1k, you could replace the heads, but you could just port the ones on it. For a look at some choices on parts, check the "carry all" places like Jeg's and Summit Racing and then, once you've gotten some info and perhaps made a directional decision, look for places where the SBC is more of a specialty, keeping in mind, this may also drive up the cost of your build. Don't be intimidated by the search either... the LT1(GenII) has nowhere near the following of the LS series and you'll surely be able to learn plenty in a fairly short time.

 

Ughhh.... Another LS bandwagoneer.... You DO NOT need an LS motor to make good power, especially for the goal OP is going for. The only reason I would go LS is if I wanted to make 900+ HP or LT1 parts are completely obsolete. 400-450 streetable HP is easily obtainable N/A with the LT1. Lloyd Elliot or Advanced Inductions is a good place to look for H/C combos. You send them your stock heads and they work them over and will match a cam to your goals.

If you just want a solid +/- 350ish HP, A simple cam swap will get you there along with the obvious boltons, stall etc etc.

Oh and do not look in Summit or Jegs for the LT1 "450 HP Heads/Cam kits" And certainly don't lower your compression like said above. A stock LT1 Impala SS headgasket is a good upgrade to lower quench and up the compression.

From what it sounds like you're after, here's what I would do and what you need.

Impala head gaskets
Headers (long tube)
Full exhaust (of your choice)
3400+ stall
3.73s
CC503 cam or have L.E. or A.I. spec you a cam.
Comp Pro Mag 1.6 NSA rockers with 7/16 studs.
Whatever springs you need for the cam you select.
Guideplates and hardened pushrods.
New oil pump drive gear
Reuse the lifters if they are in good shape.
Misc. fluids, gaskets, hardware, etc.

That makes for a solid mid to low 12 second car if you race at all, but is streetable and reliable if done right. Remember though, the more aggressive the cam, the shorter the life of valve springs are. You won't get 100K plus from a set of springs.

 

Agreed. You beat me to it. Lol. Like the above post above states, those are some pretty good mods to get you where you want. Call LE or AI and they will spec things out for you. You WILL NOT need to lower the compression unless your over 12:5 which I still dont really see the point in doing so. Get you some nice gaskets and have fun. With people like LE and AI they will get you well within your hp range. And please dont go to Jegs to get a top-end kit. For misc parts yea, but for complete kits HELL NO!

 

Absolutely not. LT1s are 10.5 static compression from the factory, and street setups routinely run up to 12:1 on 93 pump gas without issues. Most heads/cam cars end up around 11.0-11.5 with either the Impala or the .026 head gaskets. The old SBC wisdom of keeping compression below 11:1 in order to run pump gas does NOT apply to these engines.

If the engine is already on the stand, I'd take the time to remove the heads and slip in the .026 gaskets while doing the cam swap for a bump in compression.

The only reason to ever do a LTx setup with compression lower than stock is if you're going with a forced induction setup.

 

I would think at least 360-400 crank hp just with a cam/rockers/springs and bolt-ons, without even porting the heads. Doesn't a stock LT1 make 340-350crank hp with bolt ons and a stock cam?

 

You guys are PISSY! Relax... I'm not calling the LT1 junk or anything. Like you, I merely added an opinion. Apparently when they don't match yours, they're intolerable. Of course, I think if you read a little slower and digested a bit more, you may just find they're not so different. I simply looked at it from a cost perspective vs a "must have original engine" approach. It was merely a question, for him, not someone else, to answer.

Maybe you should've read my entire post rather than just the 1st line.

Doing it as you suggest, he's GOING to have about 3k into the build and that's just using decent parts, according to the little list you added. That's 11 things... and doesn't include the tools, assembly lube and other little things like cleaning supplies, lubes, etc. Yes, you mentioned them.. 11, not 12, for the 3k.

For a 12 second car? He's not saying he wants to set the world on fire, but literally, he can have more for less and that was my point before I got into some details of the LT1 build, which you apparently never noticed. You apparently just got pissed when you saw "LS1" instead of LT1. I was merely wondering why he'd want to spend 3k for a a 2k power level? It's not like both aren't GM ... and Camaro power plants.

Slow your pissed off roll. I didn't say the LT1 isn't worth building, just that I was wondering about the cost.

Yup... a nitrous kit will do it. It would be N/A and have the back up for real power.

450 easily obtainable ... N/A and street friendly w/ an LT1 ... you act like that's done all the time. It isn't, to be sure.

Okay... don't bother to consider he may want to go w/ a power adder 2yrs from now. It's not like I suggested 8:1 ... just, a little lower than 10.5 and there are reasons. He could go 10.0-10.3 and truly help overall. He's not going to lose any notable power at that change, but the longevity increases. Of course, my mention of head gaskets was a standalone comment as another option. It won't help as much, but it's almost a necessity because compression really is an issue after all.

I never had another small block in mind when considering the compression. I was considering the simple reality... 10.5 w/ aluminum heads w/o the advantage of being a newly designed engine using an aluminum block. Since the water flows opposite of old school, the typical "really old stuff" mindset never even came to mind.

 

450fwhp na on a stock 2-bolt main shortblock is easy and exceeded fairly regularly, guys have exceeded 500fwhp on the stock 2-bolt main shortblock.

For what the guy is asking for the talk of lowering compression is just absurd, you scold others for not reading what you wrote but you didn't read what the OP wrote.

He is a newb and wanting to add power not forced induction or nitrous.
For the cam only setup this guy is talking about though 400fwhp is REALLY easy to exceed with great manners and reasonable cost.
Lowering compression on a stock shortblock is dumb because it wont handle boost worth a damn anyway and that might be as much the computer as the pistons. There are very few successful boost stock shortblock LT1 builds and to accomplish that a thin head gasket and larger chamber head like the Trickflow 195cc is a better bet than anything else you could do to a stock shortblock seeing as the head gaskets are already rather thick.

To the OP you need a higher stall torque converter to go with a cam. Matter of fact you can add a lot of performance with stall and 3.42-3.73 gears before ever going into the engine.
Did you understand the Vette engine is no upgrade atall? The 4-bolt mains aren't really worth it till making enough power that aftermarket caps become worth considering, a well assembled studded 2-bolt main can handle 500rwhp without a hiccup and that is a rarely accomplished number with the pcm's 7000ish rpm limit. Basically takes a solid roller stroker through a few have tickled it with hydraulic cams or 355s in manual tranny cars that have less drivetrain loss.

 

Uh oh.. we have another Cardo except he probably doesn't own an lt1 car

 

Hello everyone and thanks for all the advice and suggestions. i am sorry this post has caused such a commotion because i surely didn't mean for it to. Also, it may help if i elaborate just a little on my motor...The motor going into my 95 TA is a freshly complete rebuilt to stock spec, 95 Corvette LT1. The motor is perfect as far as what it was built to do. i was just wondering if there may be a simple top end kit to install to obtain a little more umph so to speak. i know the f body lt1's and the Corvette lt1's where very similar as far as hp and that the true "Corvette" motor as everyone says had a 4 bolt main as well as a few more hp and several different specs on the cam. with all this said i was mainly looking at maybe adding a cam, rockers, lifters, springs and doing a couple free mods such as tb bypass, egr and smog pump delete etc. also, i am adding a new set of long tube headers and a cold air intake. hopefully this will clear up any confusion i have created....

 

Mechanically the Vette motor has no more HP than the f-body, the cam is the same. Define "rebuilt" many a "rebuilt" LT1 is a pile of garbage compared to a stock one, shops use cheaper pistons, lower compression and all kinds of other stupid things.

 

Completely tore down and rebuilt with all factory parts to factory specs by a local reputable builder here. No shortcuts of any kind and paperwork to prove it as well as a good warranty. 100% OEM stock.

 

Like mentioned above Elliot Port Works is a good place to go for head porting if you want to spend the extra money, but they also have great cams for sale too if you want to keep your heads stock.
IMO I don't feel safe spinning my LT1 over 6000RPM in fear of spinning bearings. I don't really feel the need to spin it past 5500-58000RPM because the stock cam peaks around 5200-5500RPM.
My point is they make cams that rev to 6500-7000RPM but would lack low-mid range grunt where you need it on the street. Go with a cam that pulls from idle to 6000RPM like the Crane 227 or a cam equivalent to the GM 845. The GM hot cam kit is okay but if you read a lot about it you will find that it likes to rev past 6000RPM to make peak power which I wouldn't suggest with a stock short block. This is just my opinion, some ppl have ran there stock bottom end to 6800 without any issues.

 

Use a thin head gasket and get a competently spec'd cam and a can that peaks at 6400 still has nice off idle torque.

 

It is done pretty much all the time, with well-executed builds. N/A and street friendly too. 400-435 rear wheel is commonly done on the stock shortblock with nothing more than bolt-ons, ported heads and a cam.



His original post mentioned nothing about boost, so I didn't consider that. Either way, it'd be silly to build a motor with 10:1 compression so it's more boost tolerant than a 10.5 motor because neither of those SCRs is ideal at all for boost, and anything less than 11:1 or better is not ideal for a performance-oriented NA LTx build.
The compression is NOT an issue with these motors, and doesn't detract from reliability. This is actually due to the LTx motors having the reverse cooling, AL heads and knock sensor features that the older small blocks don't have. Those features are what actually enable LTx motors to run 12:1 or better SCR on pump fuel. Simple as that.

 

What is your budget? To me it sounds like you're looking for what many of us call a basic "cam only" setup, that is, an aftermarket cam in the stock motor with all of the requisite valvetrain upgrades, without doing ported heads.
Such setups commonly make in the range of 340-360rwhp with a manual transmission, A4 cars typically dyno 10 or 15 lower. This is right around 400-415 flywheel horsepower.

There have been many, many options offered over the years, including complete camshaft kits that include everything needed to accomplish the swap. I like these because they are a 'plug and play' option and you don't have to go around piecing together everything you'll need.
Advanced Induction perhaps currently has the most complete online catalog for those doing this type of project:
http://www.advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php

All of those grinds will do well for each of their intended purposes. You just have to decide what you want/need out of the swap (power output, driveability/street manners, idle, emissions compliance etc.).

Lloyd Elliott was also mentioned, I haven't seen him offer a online catalog like that, but I'd assume he could sell you a complete cam kit with your choice of one of his grinds as well.

If your goal is a bit higher....say, between 450 and 500 flywheel (390-435rwhp), then you'll want to look at the complete ported heads/cam packages available.

Since you say the car is 100% stock, you'll also need the regular external bolt-ons to work with whatever engine option you choose. These include long-tube headers and a complete free-flowing exhaust system and a cold-air intake kit.

 

hello again everyone and i must apologize...after seeing the motor in person today and checking the block numbers, it turns out what i was told was a 95 Corvette LT1 is actually a 1993 LT5 motor....

 

LT5? Pics Please

 

moehorsepower, i havent had a chance to take any yet due to the car and motor being in the shop. The motor has not been installed as of yet but hopefully they get to it this weekend. i have never heard of an lt5 before but they showed me the documentation for the engine and i am no expert. is there actually such a thing as a lt5? and please dont laugh due to my in experience, my dad is the one who found me the engine as a replacement for my blown lt1.........Please, someone educate me on this engine.....

 

While the LT5 is a potent engine in stock form, good luck getting it to perform any better than it does in stock form.. It's gonna take a lot of money and your limited on performance parts also.. But it would be bad *** to look at tho!!