Adding forced induction on higher millage vehicle
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OP you picked the wrong hobby, you are wildly ignorant and apparently have expectations far exceeding your budget.
By the time you buy a supercharger kit, supporting mods, tranny, axle and freshen an engine to handle it not a full stroker build just a basic 355 and you will be in $8K in a blink. Far as strokers, it is a bandwagon often jumped on without understanding but if well built there is NOTHING wrong with them and the crank can even be liter than stock.
Watch out for ignorant folks offering you advise too.
By the time you buy a supercharger kit, supporting mods, tranny, axle and freshen an engine to handle it not a full stroker build just a basic 355 and you will be in $8K in a blink. Far as strokers, it is a bandwagon often jumped on without understanding but if well built there is NOTHING wrong with them and the crank can even be liter than stock.
Watch out for ignorant folks offering you advise too.
And ya everyone has there own opinion hahaha and I don't mined hearing them at all!!
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Lol definitely not going to blow my engine then rebuild hahahaha😂 Well I'm not looking for that much horses though ya some's good, mores better but I'm only looking for 425ish horses, the cheapest, safest I can find (for how high my millage is) I thought a procharger would get me there the quickest alp though not the cheapest or safest
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If the car is your daily transportation and you have to rely on it, then I'd go another route.
However, if the car is a toy and you have another way to get around if it breaks, then by all means, do it. You'll want to add a good set of headers and a couple other things, but it will live for a while on 7psi if you don't lean on it too hard. How the car is driven and cared for has a lot to do with it. If you put a blower on it and beat the hell out of it on a regular basis or in hot weather, then it will likely pop pretty quickly. If you exercise some restraint and only run the car hard occasionally and when the weather is not really hot, it will likely last a while.
When it does eventually break something rebuild the shortblock with forged pistons and rods, upgrade the heads and camshaft, add more boost and make big power.
If you decide to go the N/A route, 400+rwhp is easily attainable on the stock shortblock with a good set of ported heads and matching camshaft. I wouldn't worry about the mileage too much, if the motor still holds good oil pressure and a leakdown test shows good results you will be fine.
However, if the car is a toy and you have another way to get around if it breaks, then by all means, do it. You'll want to add a good set of headers and a couple other things, but it will live for a while on 7psi if you don't lean on it too hard. How the car is driven and cared for has a lot to do with it. If you put a blower on it and beat the hell out of it on a regular basis or in hot weather, then it will likely pop pretty quickly. If you exercise some restraint and only run the car hard occasionally and when the weather is not really hot, it will likely last a while.
When it does eventually break something rebuild the shortblock with forged pistons and rods, upgrade the heads and camshaft, add more boost and make big power.
If you decide to go the N/A route, 400+rwhp is easily attainable on the stock shortblock with a good set of ported heads and matching camshaft. I wouldn't worry about the mileage too much, if the motor still holds good oil pressure and a leakdown test shows good results you will be fine.
My friend I'm just looking for ideas. And your right if they are built well* don't get me wrong man I friggin looove a screaming 383 stroked out, their just power houses, but I don't want to do a full rebuild yet. Im probably going to do a compression build (if you will) head/cam swap, ram air, I need headers so kook LTs, lt4 cam, I'm probably going to buy Eddlebrock lt4 heads as well, new valve springs, 1.9 rockers and such plus some supporting mods. I already have my exhaust(: so maybe top end while i'm at it but I'm not too sure yet. I'll see when I get down into her guts.
And ya everyone has there own opinion hahaha and I don't mined hearing them at all!!
And ya everyone has there own opinion hahaha and I don't mined hearing them at all!!
You'll due yourself a favor if you call Advanced Induction or Lloyd Elliot. Let them spec you cam and port your stock heads. You'll have around 450 FWhp or 400 RWhp.
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From: Nebraska
Oooo K... Lost me on this one.
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Stop! Stop! Stop! Learn! Learn! Learn! Edelbrock heads offer NO hp improvement over stock heads. An LT4 cam is almost exactly the same specs as your cam. AND there is no such thing as 1.9 rockers. Your will be 20-30 hp over stock due to the Kooks headers. All that work and money for no gain.
You'll due yourself a favor if you call Advanced Induction or Lloyd Elliot. Let them spec you cam and port your stock heads. You'll have around 450 FWhp or 400 RWhp.
You'll due yourself a favor if you call Advanced Induction or Lloyd Elliot. Let them spec you cam and port your stock heads. You'll have around 450 FWhp or 400 RWhp.
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Verdad Gallardo Seriously, good plan. Carry through with it.
My last post to the troll.
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Its very obvious you are only 18. its also obvious you have little experience with engine building or even basic engine principals. Stop taking offense when someone tells you to stop and learn. You have much to learn. A lot of us have formal training, schooling, and real life experiences to fall back on.
Youre 18 and you need some guidance. Good God, you've only really been alive for what, 2 years or so? Ive probably driven farther backwards than you have forwards! Take the hand when its extended to you. You have an old used up Camaro that you want to add forced induction to, and Edelbrock heads?? weve all been there and had the same pipe dream youre having now. Take it from us, theres a correct and incorrect way to start a build on an engine.
First, its your daily driver, so just use it as transportation like it was meant. Ripping into an engine requires time down...Can you afford that? Its a high mile car that probably needs everything looked at, from suspension, tires and brakes to engine, trans and rear end. Don't just take your tax return and dump it into a set of heads that wont do anything for your car anyway.
Start with safety items like, suspension parts that we know are worn out. Brake linings, hoses and rotors... Providing you have the facility, (garage) and the correct tools, much of this kind of work can be done at home. Special tools can always be rented.
You mentioned horse power levels...how do you know what they actually are now? Have you paid to have it dyno tuned, or are you guessing? Pic of dyno sheet? You cant just take the vendors advertised power numbers and add them all together and majically have 400 horsepower.... it doesn't work like that. It would be surprising if you have 250 actual rwhp...
Post up a few pictures of what youre working on so we can help you evaluate the project overall. Engine, suspension and maybe some under carriage shots would be great.
We can go from there.
Youre 18 and you need some guidance. Good God, you've only really been alive for what, 2 years or so? Ive probably driven farther backwards than you have forwards! Take the hand when its extended to you. You have an old used up Camaro that you want to add forced induction to, and Edelbrock heads?? weve all been there and had the same pipe dream youre having now. Take it from us, theres a correct and incorrect way to start a build on an engine.
First, its your daily driver, so just use it as transportation like it was meant. Ripping into an engine requires time down...Can you afford that? Its a high mile car that probably needs everything looked at, from suspension, tires and brakes to engine, trans and rear end. Don't just take your tax return and dump it into a set of heads that wont do anything for your car anyway.
Start with safety items like, suspension parts that we know are worn out. Brake linings, hoses and rotors... Providing you have the facility, (garage) and the correct tools, much of this kind of work can be done at home. Special tools can always be rented.
You mentioned horse power levels...how do you know what they actually are now? Have you paid to have it dyno tuned, or are you guessing? Pic of dyno sheet? You cant just take the vendors advertised power numbers and add them all together and majically have 400 horsepower.... it doesn't work like that. It would be surprising if you have 250 actual rwhp...
Post up a few pictures of what youre working on so we can help you evaluate the project overall. Engine, suspension and maybe some under carriage shots would be great.
We can go from there.
Last edited by JOHNNYMO; Feb 8, 2015 at 07:18 AM.
A friend uses 1.9 shaft mounts on a gen 1, CUSTOM BUILT Jesel pieces cost more than you probably have for an entire engine budget.
The complete edelcrap LT4 kit makes LESS flywheel HP than guys expect from ported LT1 stuff at the tires meaning the edelcrap kit is at least 60hp down and a lot more than that when guys have good dialed in setups with more aggressive cam, there are cases of 350s with ported LT1 heads and intake making 100hp more than the edelcrap stuff.
Hell much of the documentation suggests their intakes are a step down in power.
If you really are an ignorant 18yo, then stick to some boltons(exhaust, CAI) for now and spend a couple years getting a clue.
If you are a troll then I suggest buying a tornado, every ignition mod you can find, maybe some 1 7/8" to 2" stepped headers, an adjustable FPR, the biggest Aeromotive pump you can find at least 80lbs injectors, the edelcrap LT4 kit, and a JET piggyback tuner, and don't forget the electric fuel pressure gauge and narrowband AFR gauge on the pillar.
Hell much of the documentation suggests their intakes are a step down in power.
If you really are an ignorant 18yo, then stick to some boltons(exhaust, CAI) for now and spend a couple years getting a clue.
If you are a troll then I suggest buying a tornado, every ignition mod you can find, maybe some 1 7/8" to 2" stepped headers, an adjustable FPR, the biggest Aeromotive pump you can find at least 80lbs injectors, the edelcrap LT4 kit, and a JET piggyback tuner, and don't forget the electric fuel pressure gauge and narrowband AFR gauge on the pillar.
The complete edelcrap LT4 kit makes LESS flywheel HP than guys expect from ported LT1 stuff at the tires meaning the edelcrap kit is at least 60hp down and a lot more than that when guys have good dialed in setups with more aggressive cam, there are cases of 350s with ported LT1 heads and intake making 100hp more than the edelcrap stuff.
Hell much of the documentation suggests their intakes are a step down in power.
If you really are an ignorant 18yo, then stick to some boltons(exhaust, CAI) for now and spend a couple years getting a clue.
If you are a troll then I suggest buying a tornado, every ignition mod you can find, maybe some 1 7/8" to 2" stepped headers, an adjustable FPR, the biggest Aeromotive pump you can find at least 80lbs injectors, the edelcrap LT4 kit, and a JET piggyback tuner, and don't forget the electric fuel pressure gauge and narrowband AFR gauge on the pillar.
Hell much of the documentation suggests their intakes are a step down in power.
If you really are an ignorant 18yo, then stick to some boltons(exhaust, CAI) for now and spend a couple years getting a clue.
If you are a troll then I suggest buying a tornado, every ignition mod you can find, maybe some 1 7/8" to 2" stepped headers, an adjustable FPR, the biggest Aeromotive pump you can find at least 80lbs injectors, the edelcrap LT4 kit, and a JET piggyback tuner, and don't forget the electric fuel pressure gauge and narrowband AFR gauge on the pillar.
Dont listen to these jokers bro. I would bypass 1.9s and just go to 1.10s, way more power. Edelbrock is the shizle, combined with an LT4 cam and a hypertech, youll be near 600hp and the fastest car in your highschool. And Im pretty sure it takes 100 kilometers to make 1 mile, so you only have 2150 miles on that motor (kilo = 100), so itll last a long time. A supercharger is just a belt driven turbocharger, so grab a turbo from a junkard supra from the 80s or a diesel pickup, weld a pulley on it, and you have a supercharger for cheap.
