What cam for a Stockish Engine
What cam for a Stockish Engine I havent worked on a stock LT1 in so long Im not up on whats out there. Buddy is building a 355, Uping the compression a little. Stock heads with a valve job. Going in a Manual and wanting to keep it very streetable. Im thinking cc305, But that was 10 years ago. any suggestions? no emmisions and Will have long tubes with no cats
CC503 if you're going off the shelf, a Lloyd Elliot custom cam would take better advantage of the subtle changes.
Price difference is basically non-existent, maybe around 30-40 bucks but the custom cam will be better suited to the motor. That isn't to say the CC503 is a bad cam I had one for a number of years.
Price difference is basically non-existent, maybe around 30-40 bucks but the custom cam will be better suited to the motor. That isn't to say the CC503 is a bad cam I had one for a number of years.
Lunati VooDoo 211/219,...a bit more lift than the same duration cam Lingenfelter developed for the F Body LT1's he sold and warranted, that made 425ft/lbs torque.
If your running a 6 speed and drive in regular traffic like I do,sometimes with the clutch out just idling along, you will appreciate the lack of surging and bucking.
I have that cam in a fully done 383LT1/6 speed. I'm running a Alum flywheel and such light internals that my engine balancer wanted to charge me double because of all the drilling he did to my crank to balance it all.
I am RIGHT on the edge of daily driver tolerable on cold weather start ups,...once running for 1-2 minutes it smooths out.
Once warm, my setup is a TORQUE MONSTER. AND gets great milage if I keep out of it.
With the light internals and flywheel I get lope, but that smooths right out as the revs build from idle.
If you keep the stock flywheel/internals, then yes, maybe the CC,...but?
Just saying,...I'm all about drivability/full on torque at 2,000-4500 rpm, your wants/setup may be different.
I have "spun" my brand new 450ft/lb spec'd Spec 1 clutch a couple times now with this setup when all is warm and I don't have the clutch fully enguaged BEFORE I hit the throttle full on.
Needless to say, I'm happy with my setup.
The next step up in Lunati VooDoo Lt1 cams is interestingly enough, almost exactly what Lingenfelter used as his "hotter" torque/road racing cam,...maybe you check that one out too?!.
If your running a 6 speed and drive in regular traffic like I do,sometimes with the clutch out just idling along, you will appreciate the lack of surging and bucking.
I have that cam in a fully done 383LT1/6 speed. I'm running a Alum flywheel and such light internals that my engine balancer wanted to charge me double because of all the drilling he did to my crank to balance it all.
I am RIGHT on the edge of daily driver tolerable on cold weather start ups,...once running for 1-2 minutes it smooths out.
Once warm, my setup is a TORQUE MONSTER. AND gets great milage if I keep out of it.
With the light internals and flywheel I get lope, but that smooths right out as the revs build from idle.
If you keep the stock flywheel/internals, then yes, maybe the CC,...but?
Just saying,...I'm all about drivability/full on torque at 2,000-4500 rpm, your wants/setup may be different.
I have "spun" my brand new 450ft/lb spec'd Spec 1 clutch a couple times now with this setup when all is warm and I don't have the clutch fully enguaged BEFORE I hit the throttle full on.
Needless to say, I'm happy with my setup.
The next step up in Lunati VooDoo Lt1 cams is interestingly enough, almost exactly what Lingenfelter used as his "hotter" torque/road racing cam,...maybe you check that one out too?!.
Last edited by TIIMuch; Mar 7, 2015 at 12:28 AM.
Lunati VooDoo 211/219,...a bit more lift than the same duration cam Lingenfelter developed for the F Body LT1's he sold and warranted, that made 425ft/lbs torque.
If your running a 6 speed and drive in regular traffic like I do,sometimes with the clutch out just idling along, you will appreciate the lack of surging and bucking.
I have that cam in a fully done 383LT1/6 speed. I'm running a Alum flywheel and such light internals that my engine balancer wanted to charge me double because of all the drilling he did to my crank to balance it all.
I am RIGHT on the edge of daily driver tolerable on cold weather start ups,...once running for 1-2 minutes it smooths out.
Once warm, my setup is a TORQUE MONSTER. AND gets great milage if I keep out of it.
With the light internals and flywheel I get lope, but that smooths right out as the revs build from idle.
If you keep the stock flywheel/internals, then yes, maybe the CC,...but?
Just saying,...I'm all about drivability/full on torque at 2,000-4500 rpm, your wants/setup may be different.
I have "spun" my brand new 450ft/lb spec'd Spec 1 clutch a couple times now with this setup when all is warm and I don't have the clutch fully enguaged BEFORE I hit the throttle full on.
Needless to say, I'm happy with my setup.
The next step up in Lunati VooDoo Lt1 cams is interestingly enough, almost exactly what Lingenfelter used as his "hotter" torque/road racing cam,...maybe you check that one out too?!.
If your running a 6 speed and drive in regular traffic like I do,sometimes with the clutch out just idling along, you will appreciate the lack of surging and bucking.
I have that cam in a fully done 383LT1/6 speed. I'm running a Alum flywheel and such light internals that my engine balancer wanted to charge me double because of all the drilling he did to my crank to balance it all.
I am RIGHT on the edge of daily driver tolerable on cold weather start ups,...once running for 1-2 minutes it smooths out.
Once warm, my setup is a TORQUE MONSTER. AND gets great milage if I keep out of it.
With the light internals and flywheel I get lope, but that smooths right out as the revs build from idle.
If you keep the stock flywheel/internals, then yes, maybe the CC,...but?
Just saying,...I'm all about drivability/full on torque at 2,000-4500 rpm, your wants/setup may be different.
I have "spun" my brand new 450ft/lb spec'd Spec 1 clutch a couple times now with this setup when all is warm and I don't have the clutch fully enguaged BEFORE I hit the throttle full on.
Needless to say, I'm happy with my setup.
The next step up in Lunati VooDoo Lt1 cams is interestingly enough, almost exactly what Lingenfelter used as his "hotter" torque/road racing cam,...maybe you check that one out too?!.
OP long as the car has the appropriate 4.10 gears(maybe 3.73 is the 93 T56) the 503 would be nice.
If your friend wants to keep the 3.42s in some misguided belief that 4.10s are too aggressive then keep the stock cam and stop considering modifying the car.
I believe that torque value and warranty offered was for the 383 engine package with their ported heads/intake/Edelbrock shorty headers.
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TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,610
Likes: 4
From: Maricopa, AZ
Manners wise that cam should be indistinguishable from stock in a 383, all you proved with your post is your car has a terrible tune in it, and you aren't educated enough to understand that.
OP long as the car has the appropriate 4.10 gears(maybe 3.73 is the 93 T56) the 503 would be nice.
If your friend wants to keep the 3.42s in some misguided belief that 4.10s are too aggressive then keep the stock cam and stop considering modifying the car.
OP long as the car has the appropriate 4.10 gears(maybe 3.73 is the 93 T56) the 503 would be nice.
If your friend wants to keep the 3.42s in some misguided belief that 4.10s are too aggressive then keep the stock cam and stop considering modifying the car.
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You have chosen to as of yet not spend money on the 7.5" and know more gear would drive better. MOST newbs don't get that. There was a time when I wanted stock stall and stock gears, I even did a mild cam with stock stall and stock gears, and now wont hesitate to tell anyone that was a stupid mistake. I did it wrong, and please learn from my mistake rather than repeat it.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,610
Likes: 4
From: Maricopa, AZ
You have chosen to as of yet not spend money on the 7.5" and know more gear would drive better. MOST newbs don't get that. There was a time when I wanted stock stall and stock gears, I even did a mild cam with stock stall and stock gears, and now wont hesitate to tell anyone that was a stupid mistake. I did it wrong, and please learn from my mistake rather than repeat it.
Thanks for all the replys. talked to him the other day and he has 3:73 gears. Id say the cc503 is the way to go. He will get a mail order tune so Im sure a spot on tune will not happen. Plus with the shelf cam over a custom cam Im sure the tuner has done numerous stock cube cc503 tunes. Thanks for all the input. next Question is can he get by on stock injecters?
3.73s are really nice with an A4, but for a 94-7 T56 4.10s really are better. If he wants to stick with the 3.73s I might dial down the duration a little. The 3.73s will drive OK so long as he understands 6th will be useless at legal speeds most places, lugging an engine is NOT good.
The difference between 3.42 and 3.73 really isn't worth the money to regear. 3.73 would be slightly stronger than 4.10 but the difference is marginal, it'll break either way. I guess there's nothing he can do about it now.
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 493
Likes: 2
CC503 has my vote. To my acknowledgment the 306 is gonna require a lot more aftermarket parts to really get it's true potential. Examples would be new heads, ported intake, higher stall etc. The 503 has a nice torque through the power curve, and doesn't have to be revved to the moon and back to make nice power. It will still make nice power down low.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 2
From: Nebraska
LOVE my 503, just installed it last weekend and with Solomons tune, it drives like it's stock and starts like stock but has a badass lope and great power. I recomend it for a stock headed car for sure.
Good Job! Camming a LT1 is probably the best thing you can do to it. Looking forward to seeing some track results!
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
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From: Nebraska
Track opens in about a month, will definitely post results! I got a UMI tunnel mount TA, Hoosier QTPs and Viking DA drag shocks also so i'm hoping for a big improvement this year.
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2015
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My track opens this Saturday! I'm all bolt on minus 1.6RRs, EWP, and those dumb UDP kits... Track I'm going to has GREAT traction so I'm hoping to just be able to get it stalled up on the converter and just floor it and hook up! Lol
There is a very nice cam for sale from a sponsor right now that would be perfect for a stock cube car. It is $250 and was a custom grind for a customer that backed out, using some new COMP lobes that look very promising with tons of lift but fairly low duration.
If I still had my bolt-on TA I would have gotten it.
If I still had my bolt-on TA I would have gotten it.