93 lt1 heads and cam
03-23-2015, 06:44 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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93 lt1 heads and cam Hi all, I posted a while back about getting a certain Car. Well the guy sold it on me, but I kept looking and found a beautiful 93 lt1 perfect body and paint, z06 wheels, it's even a 6spd :-) 80,xxx miles, bbk headers, lowered 1.25, some kind of tune?? Problem is my brother has a built 5.0 with somewhere over 400hp haha, I researched and researched and I know I want afr heads and a cam, but I don't know which ones. I just don't understand all the numbers and ratios and all that ( nor can I seem to find out how to learn it using google) but I obviously want the best power combo from the two. Also I want to get rid of the stock gears and probably throw 4:10s in. (Reach higher speeds faster, right?) but that's all I want to do to it. My other brother had his 02 trans am 6spd built, it's a 408 afr heads and a bunch of other stuff, the guy that built it suggested to him that I get "Afr 205's fast 101mm and ms4 cam same as yours" that's the text my brother recieved when He told him I bought a camaro 6spd. But he must be thinking I have a ls1. Or will those mods go In my lt1? If not what's the lt1 version of that setup? Haha I'll post pics of my car if I can figure it out.
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much!
03-24-2015, 07:23 AM
#6
TECH Fanatic
Well first of all, nothing LS will bolt onto an LT1. The lifters are the only interchangeable part. Look up the tried and true Advanced Inductions or Lloyd Elliot. They both can work over stock heads and choose a cam to match the heads. AFR makes LT1 heads but they aren't much better than ported stockers IMO.
Oh and since you have a '93, they have a one year only T-56 with different gear ratios and 3.73s are better matched for them. '94+ benefits from 4.10s. Check your RPO codes in the glove box, should either have an M28 or an M29 which is the two different 1993 only t-56s.
Oh and since you have a '93, they have a one year only T-56 with different gear ratios and 3.73s are better matched for them. '94+ benefits from 4.10s. Check your RPO codes in the glove box, should either have an M28 or an M29 which is the two different 1993 only t-56s.
03-24-2015, 08:30 AM
#7
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Well first of all, nothing LS will bolt onto an LT1. The lifters are the only interchangeable part. Look up the tried and true Advanced Inductions or Lloyd Elliot. They both can work over stock heads and choose a cam to match the heads. AFR makes LT1 heads but they aren't much better than ported stockers IMO.
Oh and since you have a '93, they have a one year only T-56 with different gear ratios and 3.73s are better matched for them. '94+ benefits from 4.10s. Check your RPO codes in the glove box, should either have an M28 or an M29 which is the two different 1993 only t-56s.
Oh and since you have a '93, they have a one year only T-56 with different gear ratios and 3.73s are better matched for them. '94+ benefits from 4.10s. Check your RPO codes in the glove box, should either have an M28 or an M29 which is the two different 1993 only t-56s.
Again thank you for all your help
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03-24-2015, 08:58 AM
#8
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M28-Gear Ratios : 3.36, 2.07, 1.35, 1.00, .80, .62
M29-Gear Ratios : 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1.00, .80, .62
MM6(94+)-Gear Ratios : 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .74, .50
I have a Built T-56 from a '95 so that's why I have 4.10s now. When I was stock I had 3.73s with my M29 and it was similar to how the 4.10s are now with my MM6 except 6th is about 200 RPM higher with the M29. I could almost stand to do 4.56s since 6th gear is still useless until 65+mph with the MM6, it's pretty terrible with the stock 3.42s.
The stock rear gears are as such.
M28 - 2.73s
M29 - 3.23s
MM6 - 3.42s
03-24-2015, 10:36 AM
#9
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The M29 is the better of the two.
M28-Gear Ratios : 3.36, 2.07, 1.35, 1.00, .80, .62
M29-Gear Ratios : 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1.00, .80, .62
MM6(94+)-Gear Ratios : 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .74, .50
I have a Built T-56 from a '95 so that's why I have 4.10s now. When I was stock I had 3.73s with my M29 and it was similar to how the 4.10s are now with my MM6 except 6th is about 200 RPM higher with the M29. I could almost stand to do 4.56s since 6th gear is still useless until 65+mph with the MM6, it's pretty terrible with the stock 3.42s.
The stock rear gears are as such.
M28 - 2.73s
M29 - 3.23s
MM6 - 3.42s
M28-Gear Ratios : 3.36, 2.07, 1.35, 1.00, .80, .62
M29-Gear Ratios : 2.97, 2.07, 1.43, 1.00, .80, .62
MM6(94+)-Gear Ratios : 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .74, .50
I have a Built T-56 from a '95 so that's why I have 4.10s now. When I was stock I had 3.73s with my M29 and it was similar to how the 4.10s are now with my MM6 except 6th is about 200 RPM higher with the M29. I could almost stand to do 4.56s since 6th gear is still useless until 65+mph with the MM6, it's pretty terrible with the stock 3.42s.
The stock rear gears are as such.
M28 - 2.73s
M29 - 3.23s
MM6 - 3.42s
03-24-2015, 10:55 AM
#10
TECH Regular
The difference between any of them is rather negligible. The main noticeable difference between the 2 different variants of the T56 in 1993 were the first gear ratios.
If I had either 1993 T56 variant, I'd likely do 3.73s. For the MM6 version of '94 and later, 4.10s are ideal.
If you plan on upgrading the heads and cam, then you'll need an upgraded clutch and also an upgraded rear end to get the most out of it. The stock 10-bolt rear is simply too small and weak to handle even modest increases in power or traction over stock. You'll need to look at one of the popular bolt-in 12-bolt, Dana 60, or 9-inch rears made for these cars. It's an expensive upgrade, but if you plan on going any faster than low 13s or high 12s it's absolutely necessary.
As mentioned, don't waste your or money time with AFR heads, or any aftermarket casting for that matter. In out-of-the-box form, aftermarket LT1 castings simply cannot match the power output of a set of stockers that have high-end machine work and parts applied to them. A quality set of ported factory castings from AI or LE is easily capable of making well over 400rwhp on a typical stock bottom-end street setup, or close to 500rwhp on a big stroker or high-revving 355 with a solid roller valvetrain.
Also, since it appears most of your knowledge is LSx-based, you need to do yourself a HUGE favor and spend an hour or so reading this thread and the links it contains:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ewbie-faq.html
That should give you a much better grasp of what you're dealing with.
If I had either 1993 T56 variant, I'd likely do 3.73s. For the MM6 version of '94 and later, 4.10s are ideal.
If you plan on upgrading the heads and cam, then you'll need an upgraded clutch and also an upgraded rear end to get the most out of it. The stock 10-bolt rear is simply too small and weak to handle even modest increases in power or traction over stock. You'll need to look at one of the popular bolt-in 12-bolt, Dana 60, or 9-inch rears made for these cars. It's an expensive upgrade, but if you plan on going any faster than low 13s or high 12s it's absolutely necessary.
As mentioned, don't waste your or money time with AFR heads, or any aftermarket casting for that matter. In out-of-the-box form, aftermarket LT1 castings simply cannot match the power output of a set of stockers that have high-end machine work and parts applied to them. A quality set of ported factory castings from AI or LE is easily capable of making well over 400rwhp on a typical stock bottom-end street setup, or close to 500rwhp on a big stroker or high-revving 355 with a solid roller valvetrain.
Also, since it appears most of your knowledge is LSx-based, you need to do yourself a HUGE favor and spend an hour or so reading this thread and the links it contains:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ewbie-faq.html
That should give you a much better grasp of what you're dealing with.
03-24-2015, 10:57 AM
#11
TECH Fanatic
Yes, but check to see which RPO code you have first. Clutch is a good idea, the stock one isn't going to take 400 HP very well. I have a Competition Clutch Stage 2.5 in my car and I love it.
03-24-2015, 11:35 AM
#12
Staging Lane
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Thanks guys so much, I just got thinking, a while ago I had 1978 Lincoln Versailles with the 9" rear end, well I took it to the scrap yard and they still have it, could I put that in this car if I go buy it back? And if so is it a good choice?
03-24-2015, 12:07 PM
#13
TECH Fanatic
The only problem is, unless you have good fab skills or know someone who does, you have to adapt the f body style mounts and some sort of torque arm mount which is a pain. As well as the adjusting the width. It can either be cheaper or more expensive alternative to buying a pre built f body specific 9", Dana 60, or 12 bolt. A ford 8.8 is also a popular swap, but again, it needs extensive fab work.
03-26-2015, 10:08 PM
#18
03-27-2015, 07:47 AM
#19
TECH Fanatic
Yes it's OBDI and it's also a PROM/Chip style computer compared to the 94-97 LT1. Not it's not more difficult, and for 93's, it's cheaper. Solomon at LT1PCMTuning.com does an excellent job tuning '93s. He did mine and it's great.
04-18-2015, 10:53 PM
#20
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Hey all it's been a little while, but here's an update, my mechanic has a brand new in the box lt4 hot cam kit. It includes everything the kit comes with and it's brand new in the box. He's giving it to me for 300.00 bucks and at that price I don't think I can refuse. I know it's not the biggest cam but brand new for half price for that kit is a pretty good deal I suppose. My only question is, what heads should I go with? I was set on afr, but everyone's talking about loud Elliot's, but wich model will give me the most hp paired with that cam? The car already has bbk headers btw. How much hp am I looking at to the wheels with the hot cam and heads? Also what intake and throttle body should I get?
Thanks
Thanks