Hey all you lt1 gurus, I need some advise. im looking to make 800rwhp with boost and spray. 2 things that stand out to me is will the engine hold together and can it be done.

My current set up:

Engine: 383 with SRP -33cc pistons, eagle forged rods with the stock arp not the 2000s, and a forged eagle crank. The block is a 2 bolt main with stock caps but it has ARP studs. The heads and intake are stock but have had some mild porting done. Comp Cams CC305 220/230 .544int .544 exh with 1.6 rockers

it currently has a GT45 80mm with a 1.15 ar exhaust side. I feel that should be plenty big

As far as the spay... I havent bought it yet. I was looking at the Nitrous Outlet 58mm plate kit for the lt1.

Im running the engine on an AEM infinity H8 using LS coils.

I also have an AEM progressive Meth kit with twin nozzles (1500cc)


What should I change on this set up? Can it make 800 to the tire with enough spray?

 

It's kind of impossible to tell if it would live or not. I'd say it will but it's not the most optimal setup for longevity. That 2 bolt main and possibly the rod bolts are your weakest point seams like. I think the 2 bolt caps would start to get a little flimsy at that power level, studded or not. Also, that cam really isn't doing you any favors IMO.

 

Top end is your biggest limiting factor but upgrading that entails redoing the bottom end. Best thing you can do is help the engine breathe but 8740 bolts and grey iron 2 bolt caps aren't going to like more RPM. Ditch those heads/cam asap. Those SRPs will also be fried long before you hit 800rwhp in your current state assuming pump gas, CR/ring gap within reason. 600 would be a more realistic goal as is.

 

Ebay GT45?

Whats your SCR?

How is your hotside setup?

Auto or manual?

Basically though, you won't do more than 600whp I would guess with that turbo. Assuming its a ebay fake GT45.

 

If I was in your position I would lower my expectations to 600rw ( as mentioned above) and learn how to tune the combo you have.
Your pistons and top end( and turbo?) don't have 800 in them. If you are shooting for 600 and a 200 shot or 700+100 or what ever combination you are asking for a rebuild. Your gears are too steep for a turbo, it will probably like a 3.42 or so for the added load.

Shoot for 600 and be an expert with your combo.

 

Similar question. Cuz Im aiming for close to 800whp as I can without nitrous. Are you on the stock ignition system? What fuel and what injectors? What size is the Exhaust wheel on turbo? What size down pipe. There are a lot of variables with this setup. Assuming the internal parts will be able to keep up. 2 bolt main? That will be very sketchy.

 

Yeah its a off GT45. its has a 83mm turbine and a 5 inch down pipe. My ignition is similar to a LS1. Im using a infinity h8 by AEM and running LS coils on that. I have a build T56 with 3.42 gears right now. I used to have 4:10s but the turbo had trouble spooling. If the bottom end will only hold about 600 rwhp then maybe its time to get a bone stock LQ4. Its strange that a forged 383 will only hold 600-700 hp. I know its cheap parts and all but I figured it would be good for more.

Now let me ask you this, if I toss some ARP 2000 rod bolt in it, get some big heads and a custom ground cam do you think I could hit that goal of 800rwhp or are my pistons just to weak?

 

here is a link to my pistons

http://www.jepistons.com/Products/148750.aspx

 

Whether or not the pistons live is all in the tune. Being that they're 4032 SRPs with a giant dish, I would be very very conservative if running pump gas. What's your CR?
4-bolt mains and better rod bolts are a must to make that kind of power in a 383 if you want it to last.

The LQ4 will need to be opened up if you want any longevity. Rings with proper gaps, rods that won't break/bend, bigger bearing clearances, and all of the usual supporting mods are needed. While you're there you might as well do forged pistons because the stock ones will be on borrowed time. However, the availability of cores, slew of cheaper/better aftermarket parts, and overkill mains from the factory make it worth it. You only loose the shock valve that comes with building the LT1.

 

I ran a near identical engine as you (but with a cast crank..gasp!) for 8 years and it was a champ. Same pistons, cam, heads, cubes..with 11psi out of a supercharger it ran 10.6 best 137mph at 3850lbs at the track. Do the math and it was making good power.
I abused and learned to tune on that engine and made my share of mistakes and it took it all. It finally quit after 2 meth system failures at the track..my fault and I was pumping a massive amount of it. I now have JE pistons.

I'm not saying the SRP wont take it but they are a 4032 alloy which is softer but engine friendlier while a JE, Diamond is a 2618 allow that is tougher but will maybe clatter when cold and wear down the cylinder wall faster. Your window of error is smaller with the SRP at 800rw.
As mentioned above, it is all in the tune.

 

So ebay special?

If so, thats why you won't make 800whp. Nothing to do with the motor.