help me analyze this spark plug
I have my TR6s are a .035 area gap, and they are super clean. As pointed out, if you are trying to ignite oil, you really need a glow plug...
Have you tried to measure crankcase pressure and see if you can lesson it?
Have you tried to measure crankcase pressure and see if you can lesson it?
My junk runs fine at a .045 gap making 100+hp more than yours with a stock coil and opti, but it isn't trying to light oil. At your power level an opti and .05 would work just fine.
Try running a bigger ground cable from the engine to battery and chassis to battery long as you are playing. It can help clean up marginal spark and generally make everything electrical work a little better.
Electrical stuff can use a bigger "intake and exhaust" just like an engine.
Try running a bigger ground cable from the engine to battery and chassis to battery long as you are playing. It can help clean up marginal spark and generally make everything electrical work a little better.
Electrical stuff can use a bigger "intake and exhaust" just like an engine.
The wider gap is mainly to achieve a stronger flame kernel. Since 24x allows me to do it, why not take advantage of it? I'm also not sure what you mean by measure and lessen crankcase pressure? I've been shopping for a compression tester...
I run a decently wide gap on mine, ~.022 top and do not run stock PCV system. Unless you have rings that never sat, or glazed the cylinders I can't see why you would have so much oil in the chambers. Unless its being sucked in via valve seals or intake tract. Too much crankcase pressure will play hell with your rings and their sealing though.
Double check the pcv system.
The fact that you have oil on All of them would pretty much rule out a intake gasket that may have cracked to the llitter valley area .
Can you do a leak down check on it? That would rule out the rings.
Is there a baffle on your valve cover where the hose is at?
15W50 is a bit excessive. That motor would have to have some sloppy bearing clearances to run that kindof oil. Do yyou have a oil pressure gauge on the engine besides factory sensor?
Is it pushing the dipstick out ?
The fact that you have oil on All of them would pretty much rule out a intake gasket that may have cracked to the llitter valley area .
Can you do a leak down check on it? That would rule out the rings.
Is there a baffle on your valve cover where the hose is at?
15W50 is a bit excessive. That motor would have to have some sloppy bearing clearances to run that kindof oil. Do yyou have a oil pressure gauge on the engine besides factory sensor?
Is it pushing the dipstick out ?
Double check the pcv system.
The fact that you have oil on All of them would pretty much rule out a intake gasket that may have cracked to the llitter valley area .
Can you do a leak down check on it? That would rule out the rings.
Is there a baffle on your valve cover where the hose is at?
15W50 is a bit excessive. That motor would have to have some sloppy bearing clearances to run that kindof oil. Do yyou have a oil pressure gauge on the engine besides factory sensor?
Is it pushing the dipstick out ?
The fact that you have oil on All of them would pretty much rule out a intake gasket that may have cracked to the llitter valley area .
Can you do a leak down check on it? That would rule out the rings.
Is there a baffle on your valve cover where the hose is at?
15W50 is a bit excessive. That motor would have to have some sloppy bearing clearances to run that kindof oil. Do yyou have a oil pressure gauge on the engine besides factory sensor?
Is it pushing the dipstick out ?
Are you sure the sheetmetal tray is on the bottom of the intake manifold?
If one understands the oiling system you would get that the system is going into bypass and staying there and that the excess oil is getting heated and circulated within the pump without ever going across the bearings. The pressure being stuck on bypass all the time would cause me to go thinner on the oil.
Pressure is NOT what keeps the bearings alive, flow is, the parts are basically hydroplaning across each other.
If one understands the oiling system you would get that the system is going into bypass and staying there and that the excess oil is getting heated and circulated within the pump without ever going across the bearings. The pressure being stuck on bypass all the time would cause me to go thinner on the oil.
Pressure is NOT what keeps the bearings alive, flow is, the parts are basically hydroplaning across each other.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 563
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From: Central,NJ
Are you sure the sheetmetal tray is on the bottom of the intake manifold?
If one understands the oiling system you would get that the system is going into bypass and staying there and that the excess oil is getting heated and circulated within the pump without ever going across the bearings. The pressure being stuck on bypass all the time would cause me to go thinner on the oil.
Pressure is NOT what keeps the bearings alive, flow is, the parts are basically hydroplaning across each other.
If one understands the oiling system you would get that the system is going into bypass and staying there and that the excess oil is getting heated and circulated within the pump without ever going across the bearings. The pressure being stuck on bypass all the time would cause me to go thinner on the oil.
Pressure is NOT what keeps the bearings alive, flow is, the parts are basically hydroplaning across each other.
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