LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

New Driveshaft Question

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Old May 1, 2015 | 08:23 PM
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Default New Driveshaft Question

Thinking of swapping out my LT1 driveshaft for a LS1 but I have already been told that the LS1 is a lighter one,, but a weaker one. Should I make the swap or just buy a new aluminum one and install??
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Old May 1, 2015 | 10:18 PM
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The LS shaft is aluminum. So what makes it different than the other aluminum one you are considering? Why do you feel you need to change it?
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Old May 2, 2015 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by shbox
The LS shaft is aluminum. So what makes it different than the other aluminum one you are considering? Why do you feel you need to change it?
Because I am having a vibration at higher speeds over 80 mph. I was leaning towards the driveshaft and then a handful of guys also pointed out the same thing. Its a start I guess.
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Old May 2, 2015 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 2JAWZ
Because I am having a vibration at higher speeds over 80 mph. I was leaning towards the driveshaft and then a handful of guys also pointed out the same thing. Its a start I guess.
Don't you have a driveshaft shop in your area, that can check the balance of the one you have?
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Old May 4, 2015 | 09:21 AM
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You have to be making serious HP and have lots of traction to be breaking driveshafts....aluminum LS1 driveshaft or not. My 383 has not broken the LS1 driveshaft yet . If you ever ride in a LS1 car at high speed (80+ MPH in 6th gear) and then jump in a stock LT1 and do the same thing, first thing you notice is how much smoother the LS1 car is. Not saying it's 100% the driveshaft at fault, but it is a noticeable difference and many LT1s were recalled for out of balance vibrating driveshafts....which as discussed gets significantly worse once shorter gears and installed. Just put new U-joints in it and call it good!
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Old May 4, 2015 | 03:03 PM
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Ive seen quiet a few LS1 cars with 6 speeds running high 11s break drive shafts in Drag radials. Took my LS1 car to the track this weekend(auto) and ran 12 flat. I was worried more about drive shaft than anything. It all depends on what you are going to do with it I guess.
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Old May 4, 2015 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by waltsfastz
Ive seen quiet a few LS1 cars with 6 speeds running high 11s break drive shafts in Drag radials. Took my LS1 car to the track this weekend(auto) and ran 12 flat. I was worried more about drive shaft than anything. It all depends on what you are going to do with it I guess.
^This. Slicks + LS1 driveshaft equals pretzel of aluminum...

Two friends of mine with 6 speed cars broke theirs this way. One was a nitrous LS1, the other was boltons.
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Old May 4, 2015 | 04:10 PM
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Mine's more of a road course setup, I'm willing to take that chance since I don't run true slicks, and can better utilize lower rotating mass and quicker acceleration and have less vibrations going on when I'm cruising on the highway. Not to mention it was a cheap upgrade...only $100. I'm too cheap to buy a $450 driveshaft unless I break one. Ditto with the 10 bolt.
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Old May 4, 2015 | 04:59 PM
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Stock aluminum driveshafts are a weak point like mentioned above, I'd stick with what you have or purchase aftermarket. If you need help getting into a quality driveshaft let me know and I'll get you some prices.
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Old May 4, 2015 | 06:47 PM
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If you don't plan on drag racing it the LS1 drive shaft is decent, if you do plan on racing it the drive shaft will be a constantly liability. Not to mention if it does break, the tow charge could easily cover the savings vs a quality aftermarket unit assuming the drive shaft snapping doesn't take anything else out (also assuming no DS safety loop is used) and then you're still out the cost of replacement. It's not unrealistic for a drive shaft snapping to take out floorboards, transmission, torque arm, exhaust, etc. not to mention the safety of the person(s) inside the vehicle. If you've ever seen what happens in some of the extreme cases of a drive shaft breaking, a vibration at 80mph doesn't seem so bad.



In the above videos both had the driveshaft go through the floorboards, in case it isn't obvious. One is a modified car on the track, the other is a stock 2011 V6 Mustang. Not to say this will happen, but a driveshaft is not an area to cheap out on.

Last edited by myltwon; May 4, 2015 at 07:06 PM.
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Old May 6, 2015 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis2
Stock aluminum driveshafts are a weak point like mentioned above, I'd stick with what you have or purchase aftermarket. If you need help getting into a quality driveshaft let me know and I'll get you some prices.
What about a balanced steel driveshaft? Im not looking into racing just the occasional UMPHH here and there.
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Old May 6, 2015 | 07:24 PM
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driveshaft shop should be able to check and rebalance your stocker
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