383 Questions
383 Questions Hey guys I am starting to put the junkyard 383 back together. Anyways I had a few questions.
First off the engine does not have a windage tray. Can the factory one be used on a 383. Since I like hitting the corners it is probably a good idea to have one.
Second, I have been reading about oil pans. Can I use the stock one. The one that came on the engine got dented. It also does not have a spot for the low oil light sensor. Do I need to buy a new pan or can the stock one be modified.
Third. When I got this junkyard engine it had a msd blaster coil and a msd opti. I will be adding the msd 6al box. I have a new gm opti and I am gong to order a msd coil. I think I should be close on spark. What do you guys think?
I think this is it for now. I am ordering parts this week. But I may have more questions as the week goes on. Hoping to have the junkyard 383 in by the end of the month.
First off the engine does not have a windage tray. Can the factory one be used on a 383. Since I like hitting the corners it is probably a good idea to have one.
Second, I have been reading about oil pans. Can I use the stock one. The one that came on the engine got dented. It also does not have a spot for the low oil light sensor. Do I need to buy a new pan or can the stock one be modified.
Third. When I got this junkyard engine it had a msd blaster coil and a msd opti. I will be adding the msd 6al box. I have a new gm opti and I am gong to order a msd coil. I think I should be close on spark. What do you guys think?
I think this is it for now. I am ordering parts this week. But I may have more questions as the week goes on. Hoping to have the junkyard 383 in by the end of the month.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,610
Likes: 4
From: Maricopa, AZ
I'd check out the windage tray by installing it with the pan off and spinning the crank, clear as necessary.
I think the stock pan can be used, but needs to be clearanced in a couple spots. Low oil sensor should be there, if not and you want to put one in make sure you get it's location correct. Link
Will you be running nitrous? If not, I wouldn't worry about a 6AL box. The stock system is plenty and a 6AL can cause issues (more stuff to break). The stock PCM and Opti set up has plenty to handle all your timing needs if no NO2 is planned.
I think the stock pan can be used, but needs to be clearanced in a couple spots. Low oil sensor should be there, if not and you want to put one in make sure you get it's location correct. Link
Will you be running nitrous? If not, I wouldn't worry about a 6AL box. The stock system is plenty and a 6AL can cause issues (more stuff to break). The stock PCM and Opti set up has plenty to handle all your timing needs if no NO2 is planned.
I'd check out the windage tray by installing it with the pan off and spinning the crank, clear as necessary.
I think the stock pan can be used, but needs to be clearanced in a couple spots. Low oil sensor should be there, if not and you want to put one in make sure you get it's location correct. Link
Will you be running nitrous? If not, I wouldn't worry about a 6AL box. The stock system is plenty and a 6AL can cause issues (more stuff to break). The stock PCM and Opti set up has plenty to handle all your timing needs if no NO2 is planned.
I think the stock pan can be used, but needs to be clearanced in a couple spots. Low oil sensor should be there, if not and you want to put one in make sure you get it's location correct. Link
Will you be running nitrous? If not, I wouldn't worry about a 6AL box. The stock system is plenty and a 6AL can cause issues (more stuff to break). The stock PCM and Opti set up has plenty to handle all your timing needs if no NO2 is planned.
Good to know on the pan. Hopefully I will be able to make one work.
As for the spark. I am going to add in the 6AL box till I get the car to a tuner. I don't know if they used that for a rev limiter or the factory computer. I am going to get my brother to send his version of tuner cats and the cable. I need to tell the computer that was tuned that the car will be a 6spd vs an auto. Also I need to change the gear ratio and tire size.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,610
Likes: 4
From: Maricopa, AZ
Sounds like I will be swapping the stud kit with mine for the windage tray. I think I have a spare laying around so I should be able trim one around the crank and rods.
Good to know on the pan. Hopefully I will be able to make one work.
As for the spark. I am going to add in the 6AL box till I get the car to a tuner. I don't know if they used that for a rev limiter or the factory computer. I am going to get my brother to send his version of tuner cats and the cable. I need to tell the computer that was tuned that the car will be a 6spd vs an auto. Also I need to change the gear ratio and tire size.
Good to know on the pan. Hopefully I will be able to make one work.
As for the spark. I am going to add in the 6AL box till I get the car to a tuner. I don't know if they used that for a rev limiter or the factory computer. I am going to get my brother to send his version of tuner cats and the cable. I need to tell the computer that was tuned that the car will be a 6spd vs an auto. Also I need to change the gear ratio and tire size.
There have been quite a few threads where removing the 6AL fixed some spark issues. In your case it may not hurt to install one (it could), but I don't see where it would help.
You still don't need the 6AL if no N2O. Rev limiting can be had with your right foot if that's what you're worried about, but the stock LT1 PCM can only go to 7K anyway. As far as the tune, I can't help you with the OBD2 stuff (not many options). But everything you are concerned about with the tune is not addressed by the 6AL and everything the 6AL does that a none-N20 motor needs is handled easily by the stock spark ignition system (with the exception of having rotary dials for rev limit, which you really don't need).
There have been quite a few threads where removing the 6AL fixed some spark issues. In your case it may not hurt to install one (it could), but I don't see where it would help.
There have been quite a few threads where removing the 6AL fixed some spark issues. In your case it may not hurt to install one (it could), but I don't see where it would help.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 113
you can use the stock windage tray with 383 using the stock long main cap or Miloden studs. Just use a 1/8" washer between stud & tray to raise it away from the crank
a stock pan works fine. Just lay it on block and rotate engine by hand. You may find #2 rod bolt "slightly" scrapes it. I just folded a towel and flipped the pan and used the big end of a baseball bat to push that part of the pan out from the inside. Barely had to push at all as the scrape was a scratch. Also the pan gasket alone would have spaced the pan far enough away but I did push it out some anyway from the inside where #2 rod is (near front of pan)
a stock pan works fine. Just lay it on block and rotate engine by hand. You may find #2 rod bolt "slightly" scrapes it. I just folded a towel and flipped the pan and used the big end of a baseball bat to push that part of the pan out from the inside. Barely had to push at all as the scrape was a scratch. Also the pan gasket alone would have spaced the pan far enough away but I did push it out some anyway from the inside where #2 rod is (near front of pan)
you can use the stock windage tray with 383 using the stock long main cap or Miloden studs. Just use a 1/8" washer between stud & tray to raise it away from the crank
a stock pan works fine. Just lay it on block and rotate engine by hand. You may find #2 rod bolt "slightly" scrapes it. I just folded a towel and flipped the pan and used the big end of a baseball bat to push that part of the pan out from the inside. Barely had to push at all as the scrape was a scratch. Also the pan gasket alone would have spaced the pan far enough away but I did push it out some anyway from the inside where #2 rod is (near front of pan)
a stock pan works fine. Just lay it on block and rotate engine by hand. You may find #2 rod bolt "slightly" scrapes it. I just folded a towel and flipped the pan and used the big end of a baseball bat to push that part of the pan out from the inside. Barely had to push at all as the scrape was a scratch. Also the pan gasket alone would have spaced the pan far enough away but I did push it out some anyway from the inside where #2 rod is (near front of pan)
