installing LT headers and optispark on a 96 Impala SS?
installing LT headers and optispark on a 96 Impala SS? I need a tutorial on installing LT headers on a 96 Impala SS. Also, a tutorial for installing the OPTISPARK. A website would be helpful as well. thanks nate
Joined: May 2004
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From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
I haven't done LT's yet due to them being way overpriced. I have the hooker equal-length shorties (spagetti headers).
The O/S is quite easy but yu will need a E4 socket (female torx) and a T8 torx bit. the E4 socket is the trickiest one to find due to the neck not being long enough to reach the screw. I had bought Snap-on, too short, MAC, same, then went to a flea market and bought a cheap MIT (made in Taiwan, and is also the Brand name) worked perfect. $3.95 for a set of 10, E4-E15.
1) Disconnect bat - terminal and drain rad fluid into catch can 2) remove intake assy 3) remove accy drive belt. 4) You will need a 3/8 drive ratchet w/ 3", 6" and universal with a 14mm deep well socket, a 15mm standard well, and a 10 mm, preferrably 1/4" dr w/ a 8"extension. 5) Begin by removing the alt. for ease of reinstall [13mm socket and wrench and a 1mm wrench or socket] 6) start by removing the A.I.R. pump (10mm bolts) 3 in the front, one in the back (PITA) 7) Take out and leave out if you wish, just block off tubes. 8) bracket behind AIR pump will have to come off, 3-14mm and 1 ea 15mm (possibly, seen some with all 14mm) 9) Begin to remove hoses and leave t-stat housing on for now, have big catch pan under the car and aim them . 10) remove 6 each w/p bolts, 3 per side 11) tap lightly with rubber mallot and wiggle, be careful there are dowel pins on either side and a shaft into the timing cover, pull straight off. NOTE- you will most likely need new o-rings for shaft if w/p has never been r&r'd and will definately need w/p gaskets 12) Do not remove plug wires yet, you will have room to work or you can # them with tape, look at your new O/S housing and the plug # will be on there. then you can remove all the wires and vent tubes. 13) E4 socket now to remove 2 bolts inside housing and 2 on top, wiggle and take off, 14) use T8 torx to remove rotor cap 15) VERY CAREFULLY remove plug on top left, NOTE, has 1 1/2" stem 16) E4 socket to remove rear housing, NOTE* be very careful of little metal disc, do not bend or hit also LED trigger that plug went in to. 17) install new O/S and reeassemble...As my First Sergeant says, "TOO EASY"
It just make one hell of a mess, Ensure you bleed the cooling system after refill. If you have any more q's, email me at streetcar2try@hotmail.com and I will call you and get you on track. I'm always willing to help
The O/S is quite easy but yu will need a E4 socket (female torx) and a T8 torx bit. the E4 socket is the trickiest one to find due to the neck not being long enough to reach the screw. I had bought Snap-on, too short, MAC, same, then went to a flea market and bought a cheap MIT (made in Taiwan, and is also the Brand name) worked perfect. $3.95 for a set of 10, E4-E15.
1) Disconnect bat - terminal and drain rad fluid into catch can 2) remove intake assy 3) remove accy drive belt. 4) You will need a 3/8 drive ratchet w/ 3", 6" and universal with a 14mm deep well socket, a 15mm standard well, and a 10 mm, preferrably 1/4" dr w/ a 8"extension. 5) Begin by removing the alt. for ease of reinstall [13mm socket and wrench and a 1mm wrench or socket] 6) start by removing the A.I.R. pump (10mm bolts) 3 in the front, one in the back (PITA) 7) Take out and leave out if you wish, just block off tubes. 8) bracket behind AIR pump will have to come off, 3-14mm and 1 ea 15mm (possibly, seen some with all 14mm) 9) Begin to remove hoses and leave t-stat housing on for now, have big catch pan under the car and aim them . 10) remove 6 each w/p bolts, 3 per side 11) tap lightly with rubber mallot and wiggle, be careful there are dowel pins on either side and a shaft into the timing cover, pull straight off. NOTE- you will most likely need new o-rings for shaft if w/p has never been r&r'd and will definately need w/p gaskets 12) Do not remove plug wires yet, you will have room to work or you can # them with tape, look at your new O/S housing and the plug # will be on there. then you can remove all the wires and vent tubes. 13) E4 socket now to remove 2 bolts inside housing and 2 on top, wiggle and take off, 14) use T8 torx to remove rotor cap 15) VERY CAREFULLY remove plug on top left, NOTE, has 1 1/2" stem 16) E4 socket to remove rear housing, NOTE* be very careful of little metal disc, do not bend or hit also LED trigger that plug went in to. 17) install new O/S and reeassemble...As my First Sergeant says, "TOO EASY"
It just make one hell of a mess, Ensure you bleed the cooling system after refill. If you have any more q's, email me at streetcar2try@hotmail.com and I will call you and get you on track. I'm always willing to help
