What's kind of clutch set up would you all recommend.

 

Uhhhh.....a little more details about your setup please? I sig is helpful. Could range from a $200 stock replacement to a $1500 dual disk clutch....or anywhere in between.

 

It's full exhaust an CAI. I planing on doing heads an cams eventually and wanting it to work well on the streets.

 

Unless your clutch is shot, i'd be saving up for a 9" or S60 axle before I thought about horsepower. That said, I have the Competition stage 2.5 in my car and I love it.

 

I'd get a RAM HD in your case.....I used to have one, but it got coated in oil due to a rear main seal leak and burned up! It's got great grip and is not too heavy, and is easy to drive smoothly due to the organic clutch material.

I've got a ZOOM kevlar clutch now...it's puck style so it's bit grabby and takes more getting used to to drive smoothly. It's more like and on/off switch until it gets some heat in it lol. But it grips like no other! I believe that one is rated to 600-700 HP though, so overkill in your case.

 

How come there's tons H/C LS1 cars running 450-475 RWHP through stock 10 bolts without issue? IMO the whole glass 10 bolt thing is blown out of proportion by those who drag race often with sticky tires;....the same people who should know better! I think for most people they hold up just fine for normal street use and light drag race use (don't dump your clutch at 5k) if not abused. Get a girdle...

 

Give a 10 bolt traction an find out the hard way haha, those things are fragile like glass, especially on a 6 speed, at least with an A4 you can stall it up against the converter already loading up the gears getting it ready for a launch, where as with an M6 it's just revving, BAM! And if you did get traction things go badly wrong. It should put up street abuse, just don't hook it up too hard, but then again don't be to surprised if it kicks the can.

 

I've got 315mm Toyo DR's, 383,....and 4.10's, and it hooks hard ....how come mine hasn't exploded yet? It's all how you launch it, not to mention your average LT1 owner isn't running DR's or slicks on the street.

Plenty of them have survived 10's....with a 6spd....somehow!

 

I'm using a AZ clutch that came with a Valeo disc that I bought while waiting for Competition Clutch to warranty a new 2.5 that had issues. So far I have no complaints with the AZ clutch and it's taken me to a 1.81 60'.

 

OP

if you can find a "Valeo" clutch at AutoZone, for your mods, it will be fine and have very good street manners. It would be exactly the same clutch that came from factory. I have not seen one at AZ for a few years but as noted above, some stores will have them (packaged under the store brand). Otherwise they can be the China clone 4 spring disc crap

For basically a stock car, a replacement brand organic clutch disc will be fine.

Once you start making 400+ HP to the wheels, get a McLeod Street Twin, IMHO

 

I bought the clutch in '14 and only because it had the 5 spring Valeo disc, maybe it was old stock at that store. Before that all the auto parts store clutches I saw had chinese 4 spring discs.

 

I know autos have. New one to me that 10 second M6 cars have done so successfully on a 10-bolt.

 

The 10 bolt being junk is not a myth.....If they were a good axle that could handle power they wouldn't have aftermarket axles for f bodies.... I broke mine when I was bone STOCK on drag radials. A 6 speed car is even harder on them. If you plan to have anything over stock power and do drag racing of any kind on the street or track, it's going to break end of story. It is simply not designed for abuse, the entire package is too small. And no, beefing it up is a waste of money and will only bandaid the problem. Point is, GM undersized this axle for the fbody. Yes cars have gone fast on them, but don't tell me that will last forever, sorry it's not happening.

 

some good clutches recomended so far from everything I've read on here. only clutches I've had experience with is stock w/ mcleod disc and a centerforce. the mcleod disc had a harder pedal than the centerforce which I love and hasn't failed me yet! I'm a lil busted up so I like the softer pedal

 

Sorry to derail OP but like I said, My Competetion stage 2.5 is a great clutch that drives like stock but holds great for hot lapping at the track and was a great price. I have 10K hard miles on mine and it shows no signs of giving up.

 

I have always liked SPEC clutches. I have a SPEC stage 3+ for sale for cheap if anyone is interested. It always drove better than stock for me, and handled up to 700 RWTQ. Pretty impressive IMO.

 

I had the same experience with my RAM HDx clutch. It was easy to modulate, but got oil soaked and worn out real quick once I hit 400+rwhp. Before I rebuilt my engine I it would continue to slip if I revved it up and slipped the clutch.

Now I have a McLeod dual friction clutch. It handles the power great, but like your Zoom, it's a puck style and very grabby. It took some getting used to to slip it from a stop in stop and go traffic without burning up the organic side or hitting the car in front of me. I love this clutch though.

I think it's more related to the general culture of RWD and V-8's in an American car. For many (if not most) it's all about the drag racing. I made a topic about this in the gears section and saw some pretty interesting results. Basically it's somewhere in between "it's going to break" and "it'll take the abuse".

I liken it to a 1/4" drive ratchet. They can do quite a bit more force than most people think, but give it enough (which is far less than other sizes) and it will break. Where as the 9" I liken to a 1/2" drive ratchet, far stronger and it takes a lot more than most people can give it to break it, but over kill for most purposes. What we need is a bolt in 3/8" drive option (Dana 44, 8.8, or 8.5/8.625" 10 Bolt) that doesn't cost as much as the 1/2" drive stuff. If someone, anyone, made a D44/8.5" option for about $1500 bolt in I think they wouldn't be able to keep up with demand.






Back on topic, OP, I think you really can do just a stock replacement. The RAM HD, or any other stage 1-2 clutch will do too, but the cost may not be worth it without more mods. I do have a completely new stock organic LT1 clutch disc (AutoZone brand) sitting in my garage doing absolutely nothing if you want to buy it (or anyone else for that matter). It's just the disc as I used the PP and all the other stuff in the kit when I installed the McLeod disc.

 

^ Agreed about factory replacement clutch for bolt on only level....hard to beat the easy drivability, cheapness, light clutch pedal and durability unless you are using sticky tires drag racing or plan on future HP upgrades soon. I put a stock replacement clutch in my lid/longtubes/tune LS1 Firehawk several years ago just for the light pedal feel and it does the job as intended for a modest power level (322 RWHP) and street tires.

 

i'd be saving up for a 9" or S60 axle before I thought about horsepower.

 

The 10 bolt can last at the track if you load up the ring and pinion and bog it out of the hole, if you sidestep it from any rpm over 2000 and hook, its a goner. The pinion isn't supported from the rear like 9" and deflects from the ring gear in high HP applications, causing chipped teeth. I put about 200 passes with 1.79-1.9 second 60s on the stock 10 bolt, albeit with bias plys and 3200lbs race weight. Just don't sidestep it, don't let 1 tire go through the waterbox and the other stay dry, and just avoid any situation where both tires are not on equal traction surfaces, like 1 in the sand crap on the edge of the road and the other on dry pavement, or 1 tire on the line in the road.

My stock replacement clutch came from my buddy at a GM dealer for their price of $320 no markup. My buddy got the autozone one with only 4 springs and it held fine on his stock full weight car. Had I known how cheap a competition clutch stage 2.5 was, I would have bought that, but I was in a rush and this was 9 years ago. If you search you can find the CC 2.5 for $265 shipped brand new.