Possible coolant leak from arp head studs?? Need Advice
Possible coolant leak from arp head studs?? Need Advice Recently i noticed a coolant leak on my 95 z28... It's coming from the drivers side rear head stud... I did a pressure coolant test and put allot of pressure on the system for like 5mins and nothing was leaking... i checked the back of the head the pipe steam pipe that runs coolant into the head feels and looks dry... so im guess the stud is leaking... Will a coolant pressure test make a head stud leak??? could not find a leak but when its running u can see coolant dripping on the headers... --- can i just try taking the stud out and coating it with pipe dope and re torque it??
I bought the car from a high performance shop I never installed them.. I owned the car for 5 years now and put 4k miles on it and noticed it started leaking... but everything on the car is basically new parts still... was hoping to just take out that one stud and put some kind of sealed coating on it and re torque the head stud...
The header is in my way... this weekend I plan to take the header off and check... I might just take it out and re coat the stud and torque it back down... does anyone know the torque spec on the head bolt...its the one on the end so I think I will be okay as far as not re torque all the others
I'm just hoping the head gasket is not leaking... I did a coolant pressure test and put way more pressure then recommend in the system and nothing was leaking.. if a head gasket was bad or leaking at all I should have seen it correct... the head stud in the back just one of the studs have coolant on top of the nut where it threads on... just don't understand why all of a sudden its leaking
I had the same issue when I finished my new engine, it has ARP head studs. After about the first week of driving it I noticed some coolant on the floor under the car, and it got a little worse as I drove it. I used the recommended ARP thread sealer and made sure everything was very clean when I installed them. After trying to find a solution for the leak I found some people were using RTV with good results on the head studs instead of the ARP thread sealant, but I didn't have the time to pull the head to re do them. I also found many others would drop a GM coolant sealant tablet into the radiator which will stop minor leaks. That is what I did, but I only used one tablet instead of the recommended amount on the package. The leak stopped after about two heat cycles and haven't had a drop of coolant leak since and that was about 3 years ago. Now there are many people that say the coolant sealant tabs can plug up the coolant system so after the leak stopped I flushed the coolant with fresh and I haven't noticed anything problems to date. Do some research on the coolant tabs and see if it's something you want to try.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote [QUOTE=97pontta;18914554]I had the same issue when I finished my new engine, it has ARP head studs. After about the first week of driving it I noticed some coolant on the floor under the car, and it got a little worse as I drove it. I used the recommended ARP thread sealer and made sure everything was very clean when I installed them. After trying to find a solution for the leak I found some people were using RTV with good results on the head studs instead of the ARP thread sealant, but I didn't have the time to pull the head to re do them. I also found many others would drop a GM coolant sealant tablet into the radiator which will stop minor leaks. That is what I did, but I only used one tablet instead of the recommended amount on the package. The leak stopped after about two heat cycles and haven't had a drop of coolant leak since and that was about 3 years ago. Now there are many people that say the coolant sealant tabs can plug up the coolant system so after the leak stopped I flushed the coolant with fresh and I haven't noticed anything problems to date. Do some research on the coolant tabs and see if it's something you want to try.[/QUOTE
My car has about 600rwp. With a supercharger wouldn't it eventually make the coolant leak worse or start up again under wot... if I did put a coolant tab in the system....also where do u buy these tabs
My car has about 600rwp. With a supercharger wouldn't it eventually make the coolant leak worse or start up again under wot... if I did put a coolant tab in the system....also where do u buy these tabs
MIne done the same after I got it togather. I screwed up and didn't put anything on the threads going into the deck. However I used the Bars leak cooling tabs and it stopped a well. You can get them at about any parts house
Do u think the head gasket is shot... I did a high pressure coolant test and nothing was coming out from the gasket it held pressure but the bolt had a little tiny drop of coolant on top of the treads... black rtv or prematex should I use
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,145
Likes: 61
From: Little Rock, AR
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 32
From: Kernersville, NC
I recommend Permatex high temperature thread sealant on head bolts. Not the high performance sealant, high temp....there is a difference between the two.
I've never had any leaks with this stuff, but I have also assembled my engine dry with no coolant in it. It also had a few days to sit and cure before I put it back in the car.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...t-59235-detail
I've never had any leaks with this stuff, but I have also assembled my engine dry with no coolant in it. It also had a few days to sit and cure before I put it back in the car.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...t-59235-detail
Last edited by ACE1252; Aug 6, 2015 at 05:42 PM.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 2
From: Nebraska
This is a common problem for us in the diesel world as well. With ARP studs you need a VERY good thread sealer or do like I did on my 6.5 diesel and o-ring the bolt holes so that the nut and washer press against it to form a seal. Only kicker is that you have to take a stepped bit to the heads and create a groove in the bolt holes for the o-ring to sit.