Please help ASAP! Quick pre-purchase question.
What I need to know is how drivable is this gonna be? This is solely a fun, cruising around town, drive it a few miles to work, fair weather car for me.
Any advice you can give would help a lot.
Oh, it's an M6 with stock gears.
If that's at .050, walk, no, run away! That cam shouldn't be near stock heads or gears. You'll hate how it drives, the power will never peak (rpm limited by pcm), and it'll be way slower than it sounds. And no, it won't be enjoyable to drive.
If it's advertised duration, should be fine. But, you'll still want the heads, valve train, and bolt ons done along with at least a thinner head gasket.
custom grind comp cam (24x duration .58x lift 111 centerline)
It's 4 hours away, so I'm trying to figure some of this out before I drive to see it.
Thank you for your help!
I can ask him to clarify if you can tell me what to ask.
Motor has custom grind comp cam (24x duration .58x lift 111 centerline), valve springs, and hardened push rods. New timing chain and all seals and gaskets when installed. 6 speed with stock shifter. Hurst roll control line lock. ECM tuned by Solomon for car with EGR delete, air pump delete, skip shift delete, rear 02 delete, etc. Fuel is walbro 255 pump to 8AN braided line to aeromotive fuel filter and up to stock fuel rails with an fittings welded in. Return is through an adjustable aeromotive regulator and then back to tank running 50 PSI. Bosch 30 pound injectors, 8.5 MSD super conductor plug wires, AC Delco opti with Mitsubishi sensor, NGK plugs, K&N filter in stock ram air box, stainless long tube headers with ORY and 3" polished stainless Magnaflow catback.
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Just because a car has been well maintained and/or looks nice doesn't mean you could be buying a potential mechanical basket case from a poorly planned build.
As stated here, having a vehicle with an aggressive cam with stock heads will get you a car that might sound good, but you'll have trouble merging on the freeway and outrunning soccer Moms' new Siennas and Odysseys. Raising the PCM to 7K sounds like someone is trying to baffle you with numbers; 7K on stock valve train?
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I'm debating whether to get it and plan to change the cam out. It's a few hours away though and I'll have to drive it here on the highway. Any harm in that?
Also, can someone explain to me what you mean by the "soccer moms" thing? Why will power be so low with that cam? Will it be real high down low or something?
Thanks so much, fellas!
I'm debating whether to get it and plan to change the cam out. It's a few hours away though and I'll have to drive it here on the highway. Any harm in that?
Also, can someone explain to me what you mean by the "soccer moms" thing? Why will power be so low with that cam? Will it be real high down low or something?
Thanks so much, fellas!
That car certainly needs a cam swap and a tune.
If you're willing to spend the money do that to the car, then go ahead and buy it.....
It should only be a lot slower the it should be.....and with the amount of overlap a cam like that would have, it'll run poorly and guzzle more gas than it should.
KW
So, how will I know it is "unhappy"? Surging? Sounds like it is going to die?
With this cam I should expect low end power, but not top-end or the other way around?
You guys are the best!
That cam is huge for my build. I already need to rev to 7k (I don't though, my redline is 6800 though and there's still cam left) on my 230/238 .565/.565 110+6 Lunati spec'd by LE.
That cam will need more rpms than the LT1 PCM can do. It will need a forged bottom half (minus crank), big heads, high high compression, a very good valve train, 24x conversion (or something similar), etc., etc., etc.
What are your plans for the car? He's got some supporting mods already, so if you do buy it maybe we can help you put something better together that better suited your needs/wants.
Last edited by hrcslam; Sep 26, 2015 at 11:09 PM.



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