jethot header problem, need help
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jethot header problem, need help well i thought i had all the hard stuff tackled. getting the header in was no problem and my buddy got the egr lined up and on. but now, we spent like 3 hours just tryin to figure out how to get the bolts on and tightened. we can get to some of the easy ones, but the primaries seem to get in the way of getting any sockets on or anything to tighten the bolts. i bought ARP 12pt header bolts, plus i have the ones from jethot, and i got the originals. but we can't seem to find a way to tighten the bolts b/c of the header. this is definately the most PITA part that i did not expect to have. everyone told me to get the arp bolts, is there some special tool that will go onto the bolt and clear the header so we can tighten them?? i should have definately spent the cash to have gotten this done. any help is greatly appreciated, we're done for the night until tmrw at 4.
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The ARP bolts have an Allen head insert in the end of them which allows you to tighten them without using a open-ended or closed-end wrench. Makes it MUCH easier to install the bolts. Just to let you know in advance, your gonna have to tightne them periodically at first...Im talking like after it firstheats up, after the first drive, then after 15 miles, then 50, then after and extra 100 miles, then 500, then you are prolly good to go except for tightening them down about once a year. To avoid this, put RTV Silicon sealant on the threads when you first put the bolts on. Turn the car on for a minute to let the heads get warm, then tighten them down again really tight. Let the car cool down and sit for 12-24 hours. The RTV Silicon sealant will dry and keep them from backing out. Once I did this, I've never had to retighten mine since.
Originally Posted by Gangly
The ARP bolts have an Allen head insert in the end of them which allows you to tighten them without using a open-ended or closed-end wrench. Makes it MUCH easier to install the bolts. Just to let you know in advance, your gonna have to tightne them periodically at first...Im talking like after it firstheats up, after the first drive, then after 15 miles, then 50, then after and extra 100 miles, then 500, then you are prolly good to go except for tightening them down about once a year. To avoid this, put RTV Silicon sealant on the threads when you first put the bolts on. Turn the car on for a minute to let the heads get warm, then tighten them down again really tight. Let the car cool down and sit for 12-24 hours. The RTV Silicon sealant will dry and keep them from backing out. Once I did this, I've never had to retighten mine since.
Originally Posted by 96SCTA
You can use any type of high temp locktite. Just becarfull you dont use I think its the green stuff. Cause If you do. Those bolts will never come out....
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yes, you can use copper gasket sealant. I dont like to use threadlock because sometimes its very hard to get the threads out. if you use a simple silicon sealant it will keep it snug enough not to come out unless you actually try to untighten them while with thread lockers, you sometimes have a hard time getting threads out.
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Originally Posted by Gangly
The ARP bolts have an Allen head insert in the end of them which allows you to tighten them without using a open-ended or closed-end wrench. Makes it MUCH easier to install the bolts. Just to let you know in advance, your gonna have to tightne them periodically at first...Im talking like after it firstheats up, after the first drive, then after 15 miles, then 50, then after and extra 100 miles, then 500, then you are prolly good to go except for tightening them down about once a year. To avoid this, put RTV Silicon sealant on the threads when you first put the bolts on. Turn the car on for a minute to let the heads get warm, then tighten them down again really tight. Let the car cool down and sit for 12-24 hours. The RTV Silicon sealant will dry and keep them from backing out. Once I did this, I've never had to retighten mine since.
I heard the jet hots had thicker metal that other header makes and thus tightening bolts would be difficult. I changed header gaskets in a couple hours with my Hookers.
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Sorry, not the ARP...its the Stage 8 locking bolts. Im so sorry for mistyping, I dont know what I was thinking...the Stage 8 locking bolts are what i used, but i didnt bother with the lock washers or anything, just used the bolts with silicon sealant and it has worked fabulously. Again, I apologize for mistyping, i should have double checked, sorry!
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Originally Posted by Gangly
Sorry, not the ARP...its the Stage 8 locking bolts. Im so sorry for mistyping, I dont know what I was thinking...the Stage 8 locking bolts are what i used, but i didnt bother with the lock washers or anything, just used the bolts with silicon sealant and it has worked fabulously. Again, I apologize for mistyping, i should have double checked, sorry!
Originally Posted by 96SCTA
You can use any type of high temp locktite. Just becarfull you dont use I think its the green stuff. Cause If you do. Those bolts will never come out....
green is used to hold bearings in place on axles. It's locFOREVER not loctite. Use red. Blue wont hold upto heat
Originally Posted by warbird27
no problem. thanks for the input. where can i get these stage 8 boltys and what are they specifically called?
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Stage 8 is the brand name.... www.racenet.net has them, or you can check the sponsors on the side of your screen, most all of the performance shops will have them.
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well, i got the driver's side bolts all down no problem, the passenger is just about done. i just can't seem to get the first bolt started. ive messed with it for hours and cannot get it started, im using the original bolt so i can still use the alternator bracket. any ideas??? ive already shaved down the bolt a little, its a tight squeeze. i think im gonna have to rip some other stuff out so i have more accessibility. also i have a shaved down 3/8 wrench, but it won't fit onto the bolt that is between the egr and primary. these damn bolts are giving me the most trouble out of the whole project.