LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Front lower control arm?

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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 03:21 PM
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Default Front lower control arm?

Hi guy I am trying to replace the front lower control arms on my 1996 z28 and I can get the bolt out of the back bushing on both sides. I tried my air hammer with no luck. I no I am not the only one to run it to this. It seems like the bolt is stuck in the bushings sleeve. So how did everyone get the bolts out. Thank you
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 03:36 PM
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What penetrating oil are you using? Something like Kroil or even PB Blaster, CRC has a penetrating oil with refrigerant in it what works well.
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 04:02 PM
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I have Benin soaking them in pb blaster for 2 days the nuts are off it just won't come out of the bushing
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 04:41 PM
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Bolts are rusted into the sleeves just like the nuts were rusted to the bolts.
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 05:29 PM
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I know the bolt is rusted in the sleeve I want to know if anyone has a trick to get it out because I am having no luck.
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 06:58 PM
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I used a sawzall and a diamond tip blade from lowes. It took a minute to cut through. It was a pain. I bought two new bolts from GM and then used anti seize when installing the new ones.
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 08:47 PM
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I tried my sawzall and the bottom where you can get to the bolt cut but up top where the bushing is I couldn't get through. What blades did you use? Like brand wise
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 08:56 PM
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I would warm the bolt and quench with PB repeatedly.
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Old Dec 28, 2015 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ballas03
I tried my sawzall and the bottom where you can get to the bolt cut but up top where the bushing is I couldn't get through. What blades did you use? Like brand wise

I know what you mean. I couldn't cut through the bushing until I got the diamond tip blade. I attached a link with the one I used. It's pricey but one was able to do both sides. It took about 20 mins to cut through one. I tried everything before resorting to it but it was the only thing that worked. I tried heat, tons of pb blaster, BFH,. It was completely rusted together.


http://m.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-8-in-Dia...-Blade/1208655
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 05:33 AM
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Thank you I will have to give that blade a shot and see what happens
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 09:26 AM
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If you have access to an acetylene torch, put some heat on it. There may also be options to acetylene that would work just as well. Heat does wonders for situations like this. There are probably better penetrating oils than PB blaster, such as Kroil. If you have access to diesel fuel and hydraulic oil, you could mix your own.
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 11:10 AM
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I had to drop the kmember out with arms attached as I couldn't get to the top of the bolt. Used sawzall with diamond blades too.
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 11:34 AM
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What heating and quenching does is wick the oil back into the rust. I have a small MAPP/oxy setup using disposable bottles and it can put a lot of finely focussed heat in a fastener fast but always be careful with a flame near a car.

Kroil is great stuff but harder to get. PB and CRC"Freeze-off" are the best easily available ones I have used. This reminds me I need to get more Kroil BEFORE I need it.
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