Cam Components Questions
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Launching!
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The hole in them seem to be straight as far as I can tell. Bought them from Summit so I will shoot them an email with more pics. It looks like they could almost pop into the springs with some pressure, but I cant get them to seat inside the spring and it just doesnt seem right.
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Launching!
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Ok so I sent an email with pictures to the Crane tech support team, I will see what they say. I cant find an email for Summit so I guess I will call their phone number and try to explain to the person what I am talking about. I also attached the photos here, i took one with a better angle so you guys can see what I mean.
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that looks like a spring locator, not retainer...seems like a mis match part got boxed
Summit sends a return label and instructions with every order. There is a customer service # on it. I have found them very good for returns
Summit sends a return label and instructions with every order. There is a customer service # on it. I have found them very good for returns
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Launching!
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Ok, so I finally got it figured out. I called summit and they said the parts must be wrong and had me return them and sent new ones. The ones that came in were the exact same, also wrong. So I called Crane and talked to them and they also said it was incorrect. They went and physically checked to ensure the package was correct, then had me return and shipped me correct ones.
So, all is well now, the correct ones are dual springs and the retainer actually fits.
So, all is well now, the correct ones are dual springs and the retainer actually fits.
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Launching!
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So now that I have the correct springs, I installed on cylinder 1 and started testing to see what my pushrod length should be. I set zero lash and then tightened half of a turn. The results that I got were for a 7.0" pushrod. I was a little bit surprised that it would be shorter than the 7.2" stock ones, does this sound correct to you guys? Is half of a turn the correct preload or should it only be 1/4 turn?
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unless you use a "test spring" (one made to check PR length) and use a solid lifter the method you used won't be right.
You might want to try the Proform tool I noted earlier
Glad Crane got the right retainer for their kit. Someone in packaging FU.
You might want to try the Proform tool I noted earlier
Glad Crane got the right retainer for their kit. Someone in packaging FU.
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Launching!
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Yeah I guess I didn’t fully comprehend that . . . in my head I thought it made sense to use the actual lifters and springs that would be in the motor when checking. Well anyways, now I have ordered that preform tool as well and will use it along with the adjustable pushrod checker and hopefully get this thing right.
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Thread Starter
Launching!
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Haha no, I specifically emailed them in the first contact to show them the pictures, but the only response I got was to call them instead. Both Summit and Crane had very good customer service and were very helpful, i just hate that it overall took so much time with returning them twice.
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If there is a gap between tool and valve tip you measure that gap with a feeler gauge and subtract that from your stock PR.
or you could use the adjustable PR and adjust till both sides sit flush and then measure the adjustable PR with a caliper to get a PR length.
Lets say you wind up with a length of 7.185...just use your stock 7.200. If you wind up with 7.135, get 7.150
Off the shelf PR generally come in .050 increments so just pick the size closest to those increments.
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Launching!
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Thanks for all of the help ******. I used that Proform tool and that made things so much easier! I measured both intake and exhaust valves on cylinder 1 and cylinder 6 while at TDC and got 6.950”. This is actually the same results I got doing the other test (using adjustable pushrod, putting RR on, checking rub line on the valve stem) but it is better to be safe than sorry. I actually ordered the proform stud mount valve spring compressor as well since the one I rented from Autozone would not work with the dual springs. It was a very easy tool to use (with the motor out of the car) but I must have been a little careless and bent a few of the studs from pressing the handle on the tool down. So anyways, I ordered new studs along with the pushrods and hopefully by the end of the week will have enough time to put those in and finish up the valve train.
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those "leverage" spring compressors are often used with motors outside the car. They are often not good for the more rear cyl with engine in car because of no access room.
I use the Crane 99473-1 tool which allows doing both intake & exhaust valves same time per cyl. Not cheap but years ago when I bought it was $100 then. "Tims Tool" is a knock off of the same thing. It was for 3/8" studs but I drilled it out for 7/16"
You should not have "bent" the RR studs using the Proform leverage tool...so confirm you are using it right. 3/8" studs are more prone to flex than 7/16" ones but still they should not bend
6.9xx" was what you got???
your head & block have been decked/milled?
if that is your measurement get 7.000" PR. I wound up with 7.100. Every motor is diffrent so that is why you measure
I use the Crane 99473-1 tool which allows doing both intake & exhaust valves same time per cyl. Not cheap but years ago when I bought it was $100 then. "Tims Tool" is a knock off of the same thing. It was for 3/8" studs but I drilled it out for 7/16"
You should not have "bent" the RR studs using the Proform leverage tool...so confirm you are using it right. 3/8" studs are more prone to flex than 7/16" ones but still they should not bend
6.9xx" was what you got???
your head & block have been decked/milled?
if that is your measurement get 7.000" PR. I wound up with 7.100. Every motor is diffrent so that is why you measure
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Launching!
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Yeah I was quite surprised too, seems like from what I read most people still ended up with around 7.2, but I checked it and re-checked it many times on many different cylinders before ordering. I believe that my heads and maybe block were decked back in 2008 when I rebuilt the motor. It overheated and blew both head gaskets on the highway, I tried to limp home and it got worse and seized up. I sent it to a machine shop back then to do the work, and I believe they did it then. That would definitely explain it!
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Launching!
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Ok, so I got the new studs and pushrods in the mail tonight and got them installed with the RR's. Valve Train install should be done now.
My question is, should I fill both heads with oil as well as the lifter valley before I put the intake and valve covers on? It seems to me like it would make sense to evenly distribute the oil to help it cover everything on startup. I did use the Comp Cams Valve Train Assembly Spray 106 to coat everything, but thought the oil would still help. What are your thoughts?
My question is, should I fill both heads with oil as well as the lifter valley before I put the intake and valve covers on? It seems to me like it would make sense to evenly distribute the oil to help it cover everything on startup. I did use the Comp Cams Valve Train Assembly Spray 106 to coat everything, but thought the oil would still help. What are your thoughts?
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pouring some oil over the valve train and in lifter valley is OK. I just crank motor with fuel injector fuse & coil wire pulled until I get oil pressure. Then start it for the 1st time
Your head & block being decked is why you wound up with the shorter than stock, 7.200", PR. Good you measured for them
Your head & block being decked is why you wound up with the shorter than stock, 7.200", PR. Good you measured for them