Cam question "cc305"
Cam question "cc305" I scored a cc305 for $110 and cc850 lifters for $60. Brand new in box. I know their are more modern grinds out there but i couldnt pass the deal up for the price as i am on a budget. Should make a nice streetable driver. Its going in a 6 speed with 342 gears.
I have heard these lifters are quiter than the ls7 lifters?
What pushrods should i go with? Hardened? Can i go with NSA RR's because im not reving over 6000rpm? 1;6 rockers make the lift .544 intake and exhaust. I heard the gm rockers that come with the hotcam kit are good quality and not noisy. Mac mid headers are going on also. Solomon will be my mail order tune.
I have heard these lifters are quiter than the ls7 lifters?
What pushrods should i go with? Hardened? Can i go with NSA RR's because im not reving over 6000rpm? 1;6 rockers make the lift .544 intake and exhaust. I heard the gm rockers that come with the hotcam kit are good quality and not noisy. Mac mid headers are going on also. Solomon will be my mail order tune.
With a cam like that you can run SA rockers. Hardened pushrods should be purchased. If the stock lifters are fine I would reuse them, they seem to result in the least amount of issues.
You should look into going with a steeper gear but a mild cam like that shouldn't have issue with stock gears just not be to its full potential.
Is this the c305 on a 112 or 114lsa?
You should look into going with a steeper gear but a mild cam like that shouldn't have issue with stock gears just not be to its full potential.
Is this the c305 on a 112 or 114lsa?
Man, I haven't seen or heard anyone run that cam in years. The cc305 lobes should be easy on the valve train, should be a great street cam. I say you scored big time for $110. You can definitely shift it where you want it but that cam will like a little more than 6000rpm for optimal performance.
Yeah you can definitely run SA rockers with it. I always recommend NSA because if you ever want to dig back into the motor and go with a higher rpm cam, head work etc. down the line then you won't have to re-purchase parts. Been there done that.
I don't know anything about those lifters. If the stock ones have reasonable mileage on them and work properly I would reuse, if not, LS7's are nice. The ones you have may be fine but I am not familiar with them myself.
I always ran hardened pushrods, I like the trickflows.
Yeah you can definitely run SA rockers with it. I always recommend NSA because if you ever want to dig back into the motor and go with a higher rpm cam, head work etc. down the line then you won't have to re-purchase parts. Been there done that.
I don't know anything about those lifters. If the stock ones have reasonable mileage on them and work properly I would reuse, if not, LS7's are nice. The ones you have may be fine but I am not familiar with them myself.
I always ran hardened pushrods, I like the trickflows.
The stock gear ratio may not be a good idea. Not sure how that cam behaves with stock heads, but you may want to move up to a 4.10 gear. Perhaps others who've had experience with this cam will post up.
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350..
Comp 305
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=214&sb=2
"SA" (self aligning) RR will be "OK" but most would agree NSA (non-self aligning) are preferred for motors spinning past 5500 RPM, which you will want to do with this cam. Likely shift it around 6000-6200 as its peak power is around 5800
Good idea to use 7/16" RR studs (ARP) since the 7/16" RR costs the same as 3/8" RR but you need to buy 7/16" RR studs
For NSA RR you need guide plates and "hardened" PR. More important on the PR is thicker wall .080" in a 5/16" width like Comp 7940 as they flex less than stock PR
The ISKY adjustable guide plates work well on LT1 heads as they allow you to line up individually the intake & exhaust RR to tip alignment (L-R)
Get new valve stem seals. FelPro Viton.
You will need new valve springs. Several choices. Crane 10308-1 are a direct spring replacement for stock but better. Howards has good reviews. The 305 specs Comp 986 or 987 springs but those are pretty old school although I did have 987's on a small cam build once. You do need to have the spring pockets machined down and also the valve stem guides for those springs though.
RR. Comp Ultra Pro Mag are the most preferred but if you want to stay SA than the Crane 3/8" stud 1:6 SA Gold "narrow" body RR is the only one that does not require any valve cover modification. Although that modification is quite simple to do if you do go with Comp NSA & 7/16" RR stud
The 850 lifters are good. I have had them in for 11 years now
Comp 305
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=214&sb=2
"SA" (self aligning) RR will be "OK" but most would agree NSA (non-self aligning) are preferred for motors spinning past 5500 RPM, which you will want to do with this cam. Likely shift it around 6000-6200 as its peak power is around 5800
Good idea to use 7/16" RR studs (ARP) since the 7/16" RR costs the same as 3/8" RR but you need to buy 7/16" RR studs
For NSA RR you need guide plates and "hardened" PR. More important on the PR is thicker wall .080" in a 5/16" width like Comp 7940 as they flex less than stock PR
The ISKY adjustable guide plates work well on LT1 heads as they allow you to line up individually the intake & exhaust RR to tip alignment (L-R)
Get new valve stem seals. FelPro Viton.
You will need new valve springs. Several choices. Crane 10308-1 are a direct spring replacement for stock but better. Howards has good reviews. The 305 specs Comp 986 or 987 springs but those are pretty old school although I did have 987's on a small cam build once. You do need to have the spring pockets machined down and also the valve stem guides for those springs though.
RR. Comp Ultra Pro Mag are the most preferred but if you want to stay SA than the Crane 3/8" stud 1:6 SA Gold "narrow" body RR is the only one that does not require any valve cover modification. Although that modification is quite simple to do if you do go with Comp NSA & 7/16" RR stud
The 850 lifters are good. I have had them in for 11 years now
Last edited by BALLSS; Apr 26, 2016 at 12:35 PM.
It has 114 LSA. .544 lift intake and exhaust with 1.6 roller rockers. 220/230 duration. Glad to hear the comp lifters are good. I will do hardened pushrods. Car has 99000 miles on it but has good oil pressure and has been taken care of.
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: New Orleans, LA
My cousin has a 97' Trans Am WS6 that just rolled over to 100,000 miles.. The car is a 6spd with stock gears, full exhaust, GM SA rr, hardened push rods, Alex springs, and CC 305 on a 112.. The car made 355rwhp and 363rwtq on 19" C6 rims.. Now here is the thing, I don't think he has an original CC 305.. Comp grinded him a cam with the 305 duration and lift..
Last edited by NewOrleansLT1; Apr 26, 2016 at 11:10 PM.
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You shouldn't order pushrods until you measure for the length, and if you stay self aligning you don't need hardened, so you can use your stock ones if the length checks out the same as stock. You only need hardened if you use NSA rockers with guide plates because the pushrod now rubs on the guide plate as that's how it's held it line instead of by tiny nubs on the rockers, and non hardened pushrods will wear and shed metal into your motor as they run on the hardened guide plates. Like was said, just get non self aligning rockers and 7/16 ARP studs now, gives you room to grow and you'll have no worries shifting at 6300-6500rpm where you should for that can if it peaks at 5800. Stock cam peaks at 5250 and you have to shift at 6300 for best times, so a peak at 5800 would need higher. Look at the "top speed of an F Body" thread, around page 14 for my explanation of choosing shift points.
Pro mags or ultra pro mags are great, but don't be afraid of clearing the valvecovers, you just trim the webbing in them and most rockers will clear. If you pull the heads, which is more work, I'd throw 0.026 head gaskets on to bump compression to 11:1 while your at it.
Why mids instead of long tubes?
Pro mags or ultra pro mags are great, but don't be afraid of clearing the valvecovers, you just trim the webbing in them and most rockers will clear. If you pull the heads, which is more work, I'd throw 0.026 head gaskets on to bump compression to 11:1 while your at it.
Why mids instead of long tubes?
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Verdad Gallardo Def will do those head gaskets. Alright so i will measure for pushrod length. I think i will get hardened pushrods regardless of what RR's i go with. Just sounds like a good idea. Would the gm rr's that come in the gm hotcam kit be good? I hear those are actually cranes. Im still on the fence about nsa vs sa rr's. I prob wont ever rev past 6000-6100rpm. I dont think i will ever buy a bigger cam either. Would the crane rr's be very safe shifting at 6000rpm sa.
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I had an LT1 with CC305 cam in an S10 with 2000 stall. Comp cams recommended stronger springs to go with the cam when I purchased it. These stiffer springs cause
the rocker arm studs to break one at a time. After 3 broke I went ahead and bought a set and didn't have any more problems.
Moral of story. I think you need bigger springs and which necessitates new stronger rocker studs.
the rocker arm studs to break one at a time. After 3 broke I went ahead and bought a set and didn't have any more problems.
Moral of story. I think you need bigger springs and which necessitates new stronger rocker studs.
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Bottom line is you need new valve springs for the 305 or any cam you put in so you will have the spend $ on those. For budget springs many have used Alex springs (google it) but often they don't have them in stock. Howards would be another brand for not much $ but I have never used them. Crane 10308-1 kit would be a direct drop in spring.
Might want to email Lloyd Elliott and ask him for a spring recommendation for your set-up. He would also be a good source to get them from.
You will need to change your valve stem seals on a spring swap
I don't think you can get a 7/16" RR in SA so if budget is the issue get the Crane Gold 1:6 narrow body 3/8" SA RR. Your stock PR will very likely be the correct PR length
Are 7/16" ARP studs and 7/16" NSA RR better in terms of strength and high RPM use, yes. You will then need guide plates and hardened, and preferably .080 thick wall, PR
Bottom line is you need new valve springs for the 305 or any cam you put in so you will have the spend $ on those. For budget springs many have used Alex springs (google it) but often they don't have them in stock. Howards would be another brand for not much $ but I have never used them. Crane 10308-1 kit would be a direct drop in spring.
Might want to email Lloyd Elliott and ask him for a spring recommendation for your set-up. He would also be a good source to get them from.
You will need to change your valve stem seals on a spring swap
I don't think you can get a 7/16" RR in SA so if budget is the issue get the Crane Gold 1:6 narrow body 3/8" SA RR. Your stock PR will very likely be the correct PR length
Are 7/16" ARP studs and 7/16" NSA RR better in terms of strength and high RPM use, yes. You will then need guide plates and hardened, and preferably .080 thick wall, PR
Okay so i have decided nsa roller rockers and hardened pushrods are the way to go. Are there any 7/16 roller rockers that arent noisy and clacky at idle. I would like a quite motor. The 7/16 studs sounds like a good idea too. How much hp will i lose if i cheap out and just get roller tipped rockers?
The fulcrum is where the friction is freed up, not the tip. Notice LS motors have a flat tip and a roller fulcrum. Roller tip is worthless. If you have the factory sound deadening on the firewall and HVAC you won't hear almost any rockers from the cabin as long as they are adjusted right. I hear a very faint sewing machine with my pro mags only because my firewall is bare and my dash is an empty shell.