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Sooo, I was going to pick up a 2000 M6 Z28 but the sale fell through. I ended up picking up a Medium Red metallic 1994 Trans Am GT A4. Went and picked it up in tulsa last weekend. For starters, it has 82,xxx miles, paid 2000 and the car has a blown head gasket. The car is completely stock, and the previous owner told me that it was driven maybe 2-3 times in the last 2 years. I have some plans to freshen up the car but nothing too serious as I am on a fairly tight budget. This summer I will be doing a cam swap and eventually the car will get a set of nice heads.
Plans for the car as are follows
Motor
-Felpro Head gaskets.
-Felpro Intake Manifold gaskets.
-Timing chain cover seals.
-Cloyes Timing chain set.
-Water Pump.
-Hypertech Thermostat.
-Fuel Filter.
-New Belt Tensioner as the one now makes a ton of racket.
-New Opti.
-MSD 8.5 Plugwires.
-NGK TR55 Spark Plugs.
-Pacesetter midlength headers.
-Looking to do a cheap true dual set up, suggestions are greatly appreciated. Anyone have a used X-pipe I could buy?
-PRW 1.6 Roller Rockers and .600" lift springs for the soon to come camshaft swap.
-Cheap CAI set up.
Exterior
-Full clay bar treatment, Polish, and Wax.
-1.8" H&R sport lowering springs.(front and rear)
-Black Firebird Sail panel decals.
-Black tint for the front side markers.
-Possible blacked out tails.
-Black Five spoke Borbet rims wrapped in 275/40/17 Nitto NT555's.
-Does anyone know how to fix bird poop etchings?
Interior
-New center console lid.
-Pumpkin 6.95" Android touch screen head unit.
-Doulbe Din Bezel.
-Maybe a B&M Ratchet Shifter.
I will keep you all updated with pictures as I attempt to bring this car back from the grave, this will also be my build thread for the car.
post pics. looks like a fun project, sounds a lot like mine! Just my 2cents... Get Reinz 0.26 head gaskets to bump the Compression up a little from stock for a little more oomph. Don't black the tails out, you'll regret it. Some states even go as far to charge you if YOU get rear ended if the cop notices your tails are blacked out. For your opti stay away from any parts store replacements. And the 8.5 wires... I did these and they popped out of the stupid stock retainers and the belt ended up sawing through 2 of the passenger side wires and caused the car to run like ****. Unless your going hardcore on the motor like 400+ horsepower the stock 7mm will be more than fine, there is just no reason to have a bigger wire if stock. and for cold air intake, make sure you keep the factory throttle body elbow. It doesn't hear soak or restrict flow like a cheapo eBay one. While doing headers, make sure and swap motor mounts, chances are more than likely that there sagging and you don't want that when you swap to headers. Make sure and drop the front of the oil pan when replacing the timing chain and timing chain cover gasket, trust me I speak from experience, you don't want the oil pan gasket to rip. Also in really tough areas from the bird etchings, turtle wax rubbing compound does wanders.
Thanks for the tips! I'll probably go with some stock wires then! And I already have the gaskets on order, and I do plan on replacing the motor mounts.
post pics. looks like a fun project, sounds a lot like mine! Just my 2cents... Get Reinz 0.26 head gaskets to bump the Compression up a little from stock for a little more oomph. Don't black the tails out, you'll regret it. Some states even go as far to charge you if YOU get rear ended if the cop notices your tails are blacked out. For your opti stay away from any parts store replacements. And the 8.5 wires... I did these and they popped out of the stupid stock retainers and the belt ended up sawing through 2 of the passenger side wires and caused the car to run like ****. Unless your going hardcore on the motor like 400+ horsepower the stock 7mm will be more than fine, there is just no reason to have a bigger wire if stock. and for cold air intake, make sure you keep the factory throttle body elbow. It doesn't hear soak or restrict flow like a cheapo eBay one. While doing headers, make sure and swap motor mounts, chances are more than likely that there sagging and you don't want that when you swap to headers. Make sure and drop the front of the oil pan when replacing the timing chain and timing chain cover gasket, trust me I speak from experience, you don't want the oil pan gasket to rip. Also in really tough areas from the bird etchings, turtle wax rubbing compound does wanders.
Tried uploading pics but it says they have to go through a moderator first. Tried lastnight and their still not up.
Good luck getting a moderator into the LT1 section, this section might as well become the new racers lounge, we could post polical threads and NSFW pictures and nobody would notice, just like when an lt1 pulls up to the line at the track.
Cool!! Look forward to following the progress on this! Funny you mentioned that @bufmatmuslepants. People either never give the LTs a seconds look, or they're all over you. I've had several people come over and ask "is that a real LT?" True diehards are few and far between.
Alright, first things first, I have created a drop box for the pictures of this car since I cant seem to get a moderator in here. I will leave the link at the end of this post.
Back to the car, when I purchased apparently the previous owner had two white cats. I guess he just let the cats do whatever the hell they wanted, the interior of the car was covered in white hair, hair underneath all the seats, in the rear cargo area, on the head liner, and pretty much every crevice you can think of in these cars. So, I pulled all the seats and got the interior looking nice. Underneath the passenger side seat was a huge brown soda stain, I used turtle wax interior stain remover. THIS STUFF WORKS WONDERS, the carpet is looking brand spanking new. I also used a little simple green to clean all plastics inside the car and out. The car will get a full exterior treatment when the car is running, like I said earlier, full clay bar, polish, and wax.
As for the motor, I have it stripped down to the block and heads. The crank shaft pulley was a b**** to pull and so were the factory exhaust manifolds. While pulling the exhuast manifolds I ended up snapping three bolts, so when I have the heads decked/valve job I will have the machine shop pull them. Other than that everything is going well. Decided to completely get rid of all the EGR s***, this includes the smog pump and all that B.S. I also won't mind the code on the dash for it.
Alright, so I got the heads pulled tonight. The head gasket ended up failing by cylinder 7 on the inside corner. The block is actually in pretty good condition, you can still see the honing marks on the cylinder wall. The rockers are also in good condition, they have the usual wear where the rocker meets springs/pushrods. These will be getting replace by the PRW 1.6 self aligning rockers. The springs also appear to be in decent condition. Does anyone think I'd be able to sale the rockers and springs? I also got many of my parts in today, it was almost like an early Christmas lol. While I have everything stripped down I'm going to do some painting, going with some black high temp paint. Painting the Intake mani like the LT4 style intake. Pictures have been updated on the drop box, the link will be below.
Haven't updated this thread in awhile so hear we go.
Motor
Got the heads back from the machine shop, the charged me $150 for a decking and a dip in a solvent tank which isn't to bad. Lapped the valves on the heads for better seating. Got the heads together and on, will the 1.6 rockers freak the ecu or the knock module out at all or should I be fine? While getting the heads on I managed to break the damn dipstick tube, I guess it got bent back and fourth to much. The .600 lift springs destroyed my compressor tool lol. Also managed to get the headers and the intake on the motor that same day. Spark plugs were a bitch as usual on these cars. Got the cheapo cold air system on and needless to say, I am not impressed. The fitment in the space where the intake usually runs is complete crap!
Wiring
Hooking up and routing all the wires went fairly smooth but I do have one question. What do I do with all the EGR related plug ins??? I did a complete EGR delete, anything having to do with emissions or smog is gone.
Brakes
New slotted and drilled rotors and pads on all four corners. Went with Carbon fiber ceramic powerstops on the front and generic metallics on the rear. Went ahead and painted the calipers gloss black while I was at it.
Exhaust
Due to unplanned expenses the cat back will unfortunately have to wait unless someone can give me a killer deal on a used system. For now I will pick up some pipe from O'Reilly's and mate the headers and y-pipe to the rest of the exhaust.
Tomorrow I will finish up some water lines, wiring, and new fluids and it should be ready for it's first fire since I got it home nearly 2 months ago. Very proud of how the car is coming together especially on my high school budget. Extremely Hyped for tomorrow. The drop box is updated with new pictures.
Good luck getting a moderator into the LT1 section, this section might as well become the new racers lounge, we could post polical threads and NSFW pictures and nobody would notice, just like when an lt1 pulls up to the line at the track.
Funny you said that, out of all the ltx forums I think this one gets the most traffic!
Well I have good news and bad news. The good news is that I got all the fluids changed, wiring done, the rest of the water lines done, and the rest of the exhaust hooked up. Yesterday evening was time for the first start, so I rolled it out of the garage into the driveway. I unplugged the coil and turned the motor over with the starter. Everything sounded good, no strange noise or grinding so I hooked everything up. Went to start it and it fired right up with no problems. Constant idle at about 650 to 700 rpm's, revved it up a bit and the rockers are clacking just a bit so I'll get them adjusted tonight. Let it Idle for a good 20-30 minutes. Car ran just fine with no leaks!
The bad news.
Backed the car out of the garage this morning and it's pissing coolant out of the radiator. I don't what in the flying f*** happened but its pretty damn bad. The thing is is that it doesn't start leaking until some time has gone by while it's idling.
Well I have good news and bad news. The good news is that I got all the fluids changed, wiring done, the rest of the water lines done, and the rest of the exhaust hooked up. Yesterday evening was time for the first start, so I rolled it out of the garage into the driveway. I unplugged the coil and turned the motor over with the starter. Everything sounded good, no strange noise or grinding so I hooked everything up. Went to start it and it fired right up with no problems. Constant idle at about 650 to 700 rpm's, revved it up a bit and the rockers are clacking just a bit so I'll get them adjusted tonight. Let it Idle for a good 20-30 minutes. Car ran just fine with no leaks!
The bad news.
Backed the car out of the garage this morning and it's pissing coolant out of the radiator. I don't what in the flying f*** happened but its pretty damn bad. The thing is is that it doesn't start leaking until some time has gone by while it's idling.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Nice! Good that there isn't any leaks. As far as the radiator, I had this happen on my old 95 Z28. When I swapped the motor out for a 503 forged build, I must have dinged one of the radiator fins causing a leak. It leaks when it's warm because the cooling system is under more PSI when hot. get a replacement radiator from Advance auto.com, it's 100$, use the coupon code TRT41 for 40$ off and you'll have a brand new radiator for 60$. I was lucky enough to have it in stock at my store so I was able to pick it up that afternoon STAY AWAY FROM STOP LEAK! If it stops a radiator from leaking think of what it does to the rest of the cooling system! Lol
Nice! Good that there isn't any leaks. As far as the radiator, I had this happen on my old 95 Z28. When I swapped the motor out for a 503 forged build, I must have dinged one of the radiator fins causing a leak. It leaks when it's warm because the cooling system is under more PSI when hot. get a replacement radiator from Advance auto.com, it's 100$, use the coupon code TRT41 for 40$ off and you'll have a brand new radiator for 60$. I was lucky enough to have it in stock at my store so I was able to pick it up that afternoon STAY AWAY FROM STOP LEAK! If it stops a radiator from leaking think of what it does to the rest of the cooling system! Lol
Good to know! I did some digging and ended up finding the problem about 30 min after I posted earlier. The big hose on the bottom driver side corner of the radiator had not been tightened down completely so it must have backed off when the pressure built up. Don't know how I missed it but all is well! Going to take it for a drive in about an hour to break in the new pads and rotors. Also, for some reason my the pulley on my AC compressor will not engage, what could cause that? It was working before I tore the motor down.
Good to know! I did some digging and ended up finding the problem about 30 min after I posted earlier. The big hose on the bottom driver side corner of the radiator had not been tightened down completely so it must have backed off when the pressure built up. Don't know how I missed it but all is well! Going to take it for a drive in about an hour to break in the new pads and rotors. Also, for some reason my the pulley on my AC compressor will not engage, what could cause that? It was working before I tore the motor down.
If the computer stores a code for the AC that disables it, you have to clear the code to get it to turn back on. Did you get the ALDL to USB cable (12 pin) yet? You're going to want that plus Scan9495 (free), EE Hack (free), and Tuner Pro RT with the LT1 F-Body definition files (free). It's the best $60 (ALDL cable) you can spend on an OBD1 LT1 F-Body.
If the computer stores a code for the AC that disables it, you have to clear the code to get it to turn back on. Did you get the ALDL to USB cable (12 pin) yet? You're going to want that plus Scan9495 (free), EE Hack (free), and Tuner Pro RT with the LT1 F-Body definition files (free). It's the best $60 (ALDL cable) you can spend on an OBD1 LT1 F-Body.
I'm planning on getting the aldl cable for tuning in such but my fund situation doesn't allow it right now. Thanks for the info! I'll give it a try.
For Starters, when I bought the car it had a very loud chirp alarm. Like the kind you'd see/hear on ricer hondas.
Anyways, got the rockers adjusted tonight. To do this I had to disconnect the battery so I could unhook the alternator from the bracket that attached to the intake. Did this maybe 2-3 times while trying to adjust the rockers. After I got the rockers completely adjusted I went to fire it up to take it on its first drive since bringing it home. This is where the alarm comes into play, it has a little light located beside the light selector switch.
The light was flashing way faster than it usually does, so I try to fire the car up. Nothing, the alarm cut power to the starter. Finally got the alarm to disengage after messing with the lock/unlock button on the fob. Come to find out its a GM Goodwrench dealer installed alarm.
Followed what was said about the key being on and the button under the dash but that didn't work.
I also don't have the button, I have a switch.
So, a couple of questions are...
1. Where is the brain of the alarm system? I was thinking behind the dash underneath the steering column.
2. Can I disable it or completely take this out?
3. Will removing the brain module cause VATS to freak out?
4. And lastly, the alarm has its own key fobs, I was thinking that the alarm module doubles as the receiver so if I take it out will I be able to use stock oem fobs?
Sorry for such a long response tonight guys. Any input on this issue is appreciated.
For Starters, when I bought the car it had a very loud chirp alarm. Like the kind you'd see/hear on ricer hondas.
Anyways, got the rockers adjusted tonight. To do this I had to disconnect the battery so I could unhook the alternator from the bracket that attached to the intake. Did this maybe 2-3 times while trying to adjust the rockers. After I got the rockers completely adjusted I went to fire it up to take it on its first drive since bringing it home. This is where the alarm comes into play, it has a little light located beside the light selector switch.
The light was flashing way faster than it usually does, so I try to fire the car up. Nothing, the alarm cut power to the starter. Finally got the alarm to disengage after messing with the lock/unlock button on the fob. Come to find out its a GM Goodwrench dealer installed alarm.
Followed what was said about the key being on and the button under the dash but that didn't work.
I also don't have the button, I have a switch.
So, a couple of questions are...
1. Where is the brain of the alarm system? I was thinking behind the dash underneath the steering column.
2. Can I disable it or completely take this out?
3. Will removing the brain module cause VATS to freak out?
4. And lastly, the alarm has its own key fobs, I was thinking that the alarm module doubles as the receiver so if I take it out will I be able to use stock oem fobs?
Sorry for such a long response tonight guys. Any input on this issue is appreciated.
I had a similar problem; The alarm would arm it's self. I took it to Audio Express and had them install their $99 Code alarm with remote entry. No more issues.
You can turn VATS off with Tuner Pro RT if you got that ALDL Cable and programs I posted above.
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1994 Trans Am Revival 
post pics. looks like a fun project, sounds a lot like mine! Just my 2cents... Get Reinz 0.26 head gaskets to bump the Compression up a little from stock for a little more oomph. Don't black the tails out, you'll regret it. Some states even go as far to charge you if YOU get rear ended if the cop notices your tails are blacked out. For your opti stay away from any parts store replacements. And the 8.5 wires... I did these and they popped out of the stupid stock retainers and the belt ended up sawing through 2 of the passenger side wires and caused the car to run like ****. Unless your going hardcore on the motor like 400+ horsepower the stock 7mm will be more than fine, there is just no reason to have a bigger wire if stock. and for cold air intake, make sure you keep the factory throttle body elbow. It doesn't hear soak or restrict flow like a cheapo eBay one. While doing headers, make sure and swap motor mounts, chances are more than likely that there sagging and you don't want that when you swap to headers. Make sure and drop the front of the oil pan when replacing the timing chain and timing chain cover gasket, trust me I speak from experience, you don't want the oil pan gasket to rip. Also in really tough areas from the bird etchings, turtle wax rubbing compound does wanders. 
The drop box is updated with new pictures. 
