Stock pistons do just fine for N/A. Secondly you have to buy everything to accommodate a lsx into a LT1 engine bay. Things start adding up quickly especially if you are talking "almost double" of 400rwhp. Even in LSX form that is not cheap.

 

400rwhp isn't too hard if you get another lt1 from Craigslist that runs fine for $400, then resize the rods for ARP bolts, polish the crank, new bearings, gaskets, timing set, and leave the rest alone. Then get LE2s, new clutch, shifter, solid (cheap) lcas, used torque arm, 30lb injectors, tune, tires, and be happy with where you land. You start wanting to go 30 over and you need pistons and a rebalance and other goodies and you add $1000 to your budget.

 

ive had some of my friends ask me the same question, along with them telling me its alot easier to make 400-500rwhp out of an LS car rather then a LT car. This may be true. BUT im not too familiar with the LS motors, an ive always just seem to like the LT cars more. Ive had a total of 6 LT cars now an id like to think im getting to know them pretty well. Plus I hate the head lights in the LS cars lol

 

I really appreciate all the advice an options you guys have shared with me. But, I made this post while I owend my 94 z28 automatic..I want to say its been at least a few weeks now, ive now got me a 95 Z28 camaro 6speed, bought from the original owner. (Older man in his 50s) the motor has been rebuilt an gone through 14k miles an 8, 1/4 mile passes (best time from him was a 13.02 at 108.4mph)?! From what he said an had pictures of the whole process. Stock internals im assuming. Although he did change the rockers to comp. Cam 1.6 RR. (Not sure why) BBK shorties. Borla cat back (witch I hate. Going to magnaflow) an I deleted the cat....Zoom Kevlar clutch kit 1000 miles ago. B&M short throw shifter. Eibach lowering springs, KYB adjustable shocks front an back. After market red sway bars with red polyurethane bushings. Front an back. Not sure of the brand but its red an clearly aftermarket. the torque arm, cross member is like one whole peice that has a loop around the front of the driveshaft. an traction bars have been changed to aftermarket, their red as well an it looks all adjustable. The pan hard bar? (Runs from the bottom driver side rear shock to top pass. Side shock I think) its red an looks adjustable. Again not sure of the brand. I can send yall pictures. Zr1 10in wide wheels all the way around. Very deep deep tread tires. Forget the brand right off hand. The thing handles an drives amazing!! I sold the 94 an the deal with the 95 6speed 1 owner fell right into my lap the same day. But my plans are still the same. Now many of you may say im dumb for tearing apart a motor when it JUST got rebuilt not even 20k miles ago. But I still want that 400wrhp car. An now, I have a car that will handle the 400hp motor in it. So I will have roughly $5600 to let go into the "drive train" so to speak. Now if I need to blow most of that in the motor then so be it. But as I said, 1 or 2 passes is all that car will see down a drag strip just to see its best time. I dont want to build it to break it. I want to build it to enjoy it.

 

I just wanna know who Eshaw is lol

 

I don't see why you couldn't make as much power as you want until you hurt it(if you ever do). Push it to the limit. Keep the tune in check, if you hear noises pull over and take a look, and ask lots of questions. Everyone in this subforum is happy to help.

 

Definitely get the build specs if you can, if not get the pictures and post em up and we might be able to identify what is stock or not.

You may get lucky and the $5600 you have to spend could very well go very far if the bottom end is built. At the very least it should be healthy. How's the oil pressure look hot at idle and at say 6K under load? Do a compression check and post up the results. You may be a heads/cam/tune away from your goal. Then put the rest towards a 12bolt/S60/9" and have a well built car.

 

Very smart move on your behalf. Now you have a properly setup car that will make that 400 rwhp a whole lot more fun and reliable. Depending on how well the bottom end was rebuilt and what components were used in the build, you can go with an LE2 pack and spin it to about 6800 rpm. That should get you the 400 you looking for. Oh yeah...ditch the shorty headers and get you some long tubes. They'll be way better for your high revving motor. But one question I got is this??? Why 400 hp? Is that a personal goal or something? I ask because chasing ponies makes less sense to me than chasing time. Out of the 3 LT motors I've built, ONE has been on the dyno. I have no idea what the other two engines made as far as power goes because I was chasing a certain track time. The same goes for the current car I'm building. I can care less how much power the car makes. I'm chasing mid 11s and a solid road race time. I say these things to tell you it may be easier to chase time than a specific hp number. Just my 2 cents.

 

I was definitely considering the LE2 package forsure! Along with having a good cam done by him with the heads. An yeah I have to agree, I dont see why people waste their money on shorty headers. Stainless steal headers will deffently be in my build budget. An I have to agree with ya as far as chasing times would be easier...I guess 400wrhp always felt like a good number to aim for. But on the other hand I would be happy as hell to see my car hit 11s. staying N/A ofcourse. So I guess you point out a good point...I guess it really wouldnt matter what ponys im pushin, a good 11s car would be pretty bad *** as well regardless of what the dyno numbers say...oh an I have no clue what components he used when he rebuilt the motor. I think he just used stock internals. It sounds like any ordinary lt1 with a borla. Rear end is still the stock 3.42 ?! I think. He changed the rear diff cover tho. But it dont have no lopy cam in it or anything thats why I assume he put stock internals back in it.

 

Well, with all that being said, I would treat it like I would any other rebuilt lt1 engine. Go ahead and slap a LE pack on it and make sure you saving money for the next time it breaks and you need to build it again. As far as the rear end goes, I think it should hold up well under the following conditions...keep the launch rpm under 4500 and try to keep your 60 ft above 1.6. You should still be able to touch 11s due to the 4.11 gears helping you out the hole, the 65-6800 rpm shift point carrying you through to the end. This is what my formula is that I'm using to build my 97 6 speed. I'm doing a 377 and will go ahead and get me s custom cam to match up with this lt4 top end I got sitting on the shelf. The heads are stock castings with the valve bowls ported and intake and exhaust runners port matched to the manifold. I'll be running 4.11 gears in mine to start with. My goal is a solid road race car that I can drive to the 1/4 mile and run a 11 second pass. My guess is that it will handle damn well on the street, maybe a little rough, but still have respectable speed.

At the end of the day tho, screw what we all say on here. Contact LE or AI and tell them what you have and what your goals are and let them guide you in the right direction. Whether you choose to chase hp or times, they'll definitely set you straight.

 

you mentioned a 4.11 gear would be a good choice? Wouldnt that screw me for highway driving? My last lt1 camaro was auto. It had a 3.73 ring an gear an it rang 3k at 70mph just cruisin. I wasnt too wild about that bc I felt I shouldnt take it on long hauls (hour+ drive)

 

Not with the 6 speed. 75mph with 4.10's on stock diameter tires in 6th is ~2K RPMs. It's a dual over drive trans. 5th is .74:1 and 6th is .5:1.

 

Makes sence now. Bc when im in 6th, at 70-75mph im only runnin around 1500rpms just cruisin now. Will the 4.10 or 4.11 make it more torquey in the other gears?

 

Yes. About 20% more. Lol