Need help building a 350-400hp lt1
so what type of springs would you reccomend
looking at getting the le2 package to make 400hp easier.
do i need to change my injectors for 400hp?
i wanted to replace my optispark but there are to very different prices on the msd ignitons. 150 and 500
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD/121/8481/1...WiwaAmJ48P8HAQ
pro billet msd:
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD/121/83811/...vTIaAnrl8P8HAQ
one is just a cap & rotor kit
the other is a whole opti
if you do get heads & cam from LE, he will advise on what springs to use. Do NOT second guess his knowledge
you will need a pcm tune and likely larger injectors for the LE2, or similar, package
to get 400 REAR WHEEL HORSEPOWER from a stock bottom end motor you will need a large cam and likely need to spin it to around 7000 rpm. your stock bottom end motor will not put up with that for very long
At the very least replacing stock rod bolts with ARP ones will help it deal with the high RPM's needed to make 400 REAR wheel HP on a stock bottom end.
If your motor is 20 years old and stock with 100+K mi....think about it. Don't build a 400 RWHP motor with a stock bottom end with high mileage. It will just not last very long
I broke 3 10 bolts on street tires before I got the 12 bolt. All 3 had 4.10s gear and always broke the differential. One had a factory auburn style. The other 2 were torsen style.
After I got the 12 bolt, It started breaking factory clutches once a month until I could afford a SPEC 2.
Be prepared to break ****
I know guys making more than that with Auburn diffs and 4.10's autocrossing that still have the 10-bolt.
Good friend of mine with a 93 LT1 made 401 to the tire with stock ported heads, valve job, massaged intake, cam and balanced motor. Was cool to pop the hood and see NOTHING out of the ordinary/new looking.
Easiest will be for LE to spec out a heads/cam info. Give him heads and buy the package to bolt it on and tune it. His stage 2 is very appealing. But I may attempt my own head port work to learn along the way and carefully calculate/select components to work together.
I know guys making more than that with Auburn diffs and 4.10's autocrossing that still have the 10-bolt.
Easiest will be for LE to spec out a heads/cam info. Give him heads and buy the package to bolt it on and tune it. His stage 2 is very appealing. But I may attempt my own head port work to learn along the way and carefully calculate/select components to work together.
autox is more forgiving as that type of racing generally does not involve clutch dumps of high rpm
with this said the 7.5" f-body rear end in "fragile" with cars making 100-150 more RWHP that stock...the rear end was not designed to handle that kind of power under drag race use for long.
making a 400 RWHP motor is not hard with the right parts...just that the cam needed to do that will want to be spun above 6400 rpm to make that power so it is the bottom end, especially rod bearings, that get spun.
Your bottom end at 89k mi is in better shape than most 20 year old higher mileage motors so you should fair well to a point on a H/C swap.
Nothing wrong with you wanting to "learn" how to port heads and select your own parts....however do not dismiss the YEARS of experience from those who do this for a living, especially with the LT1 platform. Guys like LE have it down
If you are going to learn to port the heads...might want to pick p a junk set to "practice" on first
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