crankshaft sleeve?
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crankshaft sleeve? Freshining up a Lt1 and was wondering about repair sleeves?Where my rear main seal goes,The crank has a groove from the original seal,Was thinking about doing front as well?Any input?Thanks..Dont want to install only to have to take it out...
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I have used Speedi-Sleeves on Gen 1 SBC front crank with good results. Assuming they make the size needed for the LT1 crank front and rear that would work
but doing a wtb post could get you a good crank for $50 that would be fine with just a polish
but doing a wtb post could get you a good crank for $50 that would be fine with just a polish
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From: South Carolina
Ive got a low mileage stock crank sitting around. Less than 40K miles. Removed it to do the stroker. Let me know if you want it for $50. As for the sleeves, no personal experience but I have read somewhere that they work well. Good luck.
Last edited by KENS96M6; Sep 19, 2016 at 07:58 PM.
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I have used them on Small blocks and never had a issue. I tried to get one for my water pump drive gear last week and found out the don't make them that small. I also found out GM discontinued that drive assembly FWIW
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From: Thibodaux LA
they sell a rear main seal that sits further in so the lip of the seal rides on a new part of the crank. i installed one on my car when i pulled the trans. SK5091 part number offset lip. fit on my 1995 z28
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shipping to 92571?That may be the deal breaker...
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I purchased the offset seal...What procedure did you follow to install?It has a white plastic deal..Used to aid in the install?Which way is toward the block?Thanks
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the seal should have a metal "shell" on one side and rubber (Viton) seal lip on other. the seal lip side goes towards engine
the plastic cup you push against/over crank and gently tap in circular motion the metal shell until the seal is seated
there is a "tool" used to put these on with the motor assembled (pic) or if you are assembling the motor set the seal into the rear seal plate by gently taping around the edge to start it and use a piece of flat wood and hammer to set it in all the way. oil the seal lip and then put it and mounting plate on back of crank
the plastic cup you push against/over crank and gently tap in circular motion the metal shell until the seal is seated
there is a "tool" used to put these on with the motor assembled (pic) or if you are assembling the motor set the seal into the rear seal plate by gently taping around the edge to start it and use a piece of flat wood and hammer to set it in all the way. oil the seal lip and then put it and mounting plate on back of crank
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From: Thibodaux LA
take off the flywheel. pull the old seal off. make sure you wipe the area clean of old oil. the seal says on the lip, this side towards engine. if its rubber use a thin layer of oil on the inside if the seal, meaning the part that slides on the crank. if its teflon do not use any oil. if i remember its rubber so i used oil. when you go to put it on, the key is to rotate the seal clockwise or counter clockwise( doesnt matter.) as you are pressing it on so you dont roll the lip. its hard to explain, but hope you understand. lightly tap around the seal to seat it evenly. you tap it until you feel it bottom out. you will feel with the hammer when its seated.
Weird, I didn't know they did teflon seals with the LT1. I had mine apart and the old main was rubber like the new one I installed. I did a teflon seal on my Z06 and come to find out the replacement from both GM and Felpro (same from what I could tell) have the lip facing out, so I installed it backwards to keep the lip facing in. Too many horror stories about the new style leaking. All to idiot proof the thing from incompetent techs.