LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 cooling system questions.

Old Oct 3, 2016 | 09:22 PM
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Okay, so my temperature gauge for about 2 days would hit 260*, check gauges light came on.. so I pull over freaking out, felt the motor and it was literally so cool I could touch just about everywhere minus the manifolds of course lol.. anyway, it did it again! This time I kept going and it went from 260* to 170* within seconds. The motor was still cool, so I figured the gauge was on its way out... well yesterday it hit 260* and never went back down... 2 minutes later I pull over, the motor was hotter but definitely not 260* and the car was running fine when parked... so hopefully no serious damage was done. I found out there was some water leaking out of the crimped area on the "heater core flow control valve" so I took a dremel to the crimps, and was gonna use hose clamps on the flow valve... well the damn thing snapped at the nipple! So I was wandering do I have to use this? Or can I just use a coupler? I have a 160* thermostat, have fans tuned to come on at L185, and H195*, run water wetter and rarely use heat, so would I be safe? I understand it's there to prevent water from bypassing the motor since it's a constant flow to the heater core but would it really matter? Wouldn't it be like running the heat all the time?
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Old Oct 3, 2016 | 09:41 PM
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I always thought the flow control was to keep noise down in the heater core. There are those that have removed it seemingly without issue. I don't understand the "running the heat all the time" comment. Coolant flows all the time through the hoses.
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Old Oct 3, 2016 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by shbox
I always thought the flow control was to keep noise down in the heater core. There are those that have removed it seemingly without issue. I don't understand the "running the heat all the time" comment. Coolant flows all the time through the hoses.
That won't bother me. I only use the heat for defrost from time to time, but the colder months are nearing and I dont plan on driving this F-body in the winter, it's just to clean. A Murray brand one is being shipped to my local Oreilly's. I plan on picking it up tomorrow morning.. just wanted to know if it truly was necessary. And also the new one claims it's 3/4" x 3/4" when the hose is 5/8th.. so if it doesn't fit I'll just pick up a coupler from a hardware store or something. The heat all the time comment was silly, I realized that it made no difference afterwards lol
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 11:42 AM
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I thought it was more of a restrictor, to limit the flow to the core so it doesn't flow through too quickly.

If you're topped off, what noise would you hear in the heater core? Didnt think you would hear the water if there's no air space in it.

I put mine back in because these things are finicky with overheating. I did it for reassurance.
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 01:02 PM
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When I was just H/C I ran regular heater hose and ditched the factory setup. No issues with having heat or motor overheating.

Current setup has heater lines blocked at waterpump, no issues with engine temps and obviously no heat.
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 09:57 PM
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Could be a check valve, I think I saw a direction arrow on it. I used a piece of pipe as a coupler on mine.
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