Ok so my buddy just got his T/A back from a mechanic who had been working in the car for a few moths trying to get it to run. We get the back no f/p prime and I pull the pcm out to take a look at whats going on. They have a vats delete module but not all the way hooked up. I put the one loose wire to another they had stripped going to the pcm and bam f/p comes on. OK now with all the vacuum wires loose and no egr pipe connected on the pass side it fired up and stayed on until I turned it off. Seems like its not firing on all cylinders though. I start plugging vacuum , tracking down connectors and wouldn't ya know it I realized the damn harness was missing the c105 connector. Didn't think much of it as the car fired so I continue. Installed everything and hooked up all the loose wires n now she won't turn on lol. The injector wiring is a real mess on the drivers side.(I assume its to give it power). I'm gonna pull it either way but is it worth fixing?
Does anyone have a write up on how to make the 94 harness work on a 95 car?
The right way?

 

Yes everything should work.. You might have to swap your opti harness from the 95' to the 94' wiring too..

 

Definitely some differences between the 94 and 95 harnesses that won't mate up. It's not going to work without modification. You can use the charts from my website to match things up.

 

A 94 LT1 harness will not work on a 95 car. I just found this out myself. A 95 wire harness has two connectors next to the pcm while the 94 only has one. I was told the 94-95 wire harness is the same but they are not. You might be better off buying a used 95 wire harness rather than redoing the wiring on the one you have.

 

We used my 95 harness I had off already to do repairs an it runs fine now.One might even say great lol.@ Shbox your site is amazing I used it to fix my damaged harness. Sadly last night when doing oil changes to get all the moisture from sitting out of the motor I dropped a wrench and it shorted the positive terminal to the ground on the shock tower. I lost power from inside the car to pink wire in the red connector on the pcm that I had the fuel enable bypass soldered to. If I jump it the car runs fine. The wire I'm talking about comes from connector c230 and means its from power feed ecm/ignition fuse #5. Checked all my fuses inside and out and they are good so I'm stumped lol.

 

Well went back to my buddy's to try and track down the problem but when I turned the key it had healed itself somehow lol. Found a few frayed wired coming from the distribution block fixed that and couldn't seem to find much else wrong. runs fine.