385 Stroker Break In!!!!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
385 Stroker Break In!!!! How is everyone breaking in their Strokers? I hear that using 30w for the first twenty or so minutes is good then to change it and the oil filter for the next 2-300 miles, then changing it again. But does anyone have any detailed descriptions on the break in period and what oils are best? I've googled it and have came up with some controversial break in processes.
with my Golen 383 they recommended I use 20w-50 Valvoline VR1 Racing oil. Ran it at 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes then change oil and filter with same Valvoline 20w-50. After 500 miles, do another oil and filter change. Ever since I've been using Mobil 1 Synthetic 15w-50. Only ever had Wix filters on this engine.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
after the 2k rpm for 20 min then drain oil/filter part.. go for drive. If you have a stick car stay in 2nd gear to 4k rpm and let the car decel. Do this a few times progressing up to 3rd gear and decel. This helps set the rings. If automatic use 2nd gear
I changed the oil again at 500 mi then I change it at 3k mi intervals.
run oil weight builder advises. Golen typically sets bearing clearances slightly wider than stock so 20-50 oil is what the spec
The VR1 oil has more zinc in it so that is recommended for initial and 2nd fill. Continued use can affect CATS so if you run them might want to just use conventional or synthetic after break in
I changed the oil again at 500 mi then I change it at 3k mi intervals.
run oil weight builder advises. Golen typically sets bearing clearances slightly wider than stock so 20-50 oil is what the spec
The VR1 oil has more zinc in it so that is recommended for initial and 2nd fill. Continued use can affect CATS so if you run them might want to just use conventional or synthetic after break in
11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,541
Likes: 15
From: South Florida
Just for info. My 383 short block from TSP came with Joe Gibbs break in oil. I think it was the BR30. Pretty much same process. After the break in period change oil & filter. Run for about 500mi, oil/filter change, then change every 3k miles. Using the LS30 oil, after break-in, which is 5w-30 syn.
As stated. Whoever built the motor should know what oil will be best.
As stated. Whoever built the motor should know what oil will be best.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Thanks guys, n I bought the short block already built, the customer who was having it built list interest so I bought it with pretty much just the rotating assembly excluding the cam. So I'm doing the cam n head, but agent high zinc it is, thanks for the responses it really helps, seeing as this is my first engine build.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo And engine is an engine is an engine. Top priority of breaking in any engine is to ensure the rings are seated, and the only way to do that is to put load on the engine. The last two I was fortunate enough to have started them where there was a dyno and ran them both like a scald *** ape at first startup. The last thing you want to do with any engine is treat it like it's a fragile piece of crystal.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
But yeah worst thing is to baby the motor
and yes NHRA motors run ape shiat full tilt out of the box....but we don't have $100k engines
I use Joe Gibbs break in oil but I start it and verify everything is good and go run it to make sure the rings seat. I don't baby it at all. The same thing I'm going to do on this new build once it's ready.
Last edited by Sc0tt30; Feb 28, 2017 at 09:19 PM.
And engine is an engine is an engine. Top priority of breaking in any engine is to ensure the rings are seated, and the only way to do that is to put load on the engine. The last two I was fortunate enough to have started them where there was a dyno and ran them both like a scald *** ape at first startup. The last thing you want to do with any engine is treat it like it's a fragile piece of crystal.