Cam set up?
For rockers, I've ran both SA and NSA. You can use either but NSA is the preferred of the two because it provides better stability. For NSA rockers, additional cost is necessary since you will also need guideplates and studs but it's IMO the right way to do it.
For springs, I've ran both single and duals. The benefits of the single beehives is weight. Less valvetrain weight is a good thing. The downside of them is protection. A dual spring, although heavier, will save your *** if one of the springs decides to break. I've seen single beehives break and wreck havoc on a motor. IMO, duals are the right way to do it.
Hope that helps. Once you decide what route you want to take with rockets and springs then we can advise you on some good pieces to consider.
For rockers, I've ran both SA and NSA. You can use either but NSA is the preferred of the two because it provides better stability. For NSA rockers, additional cost is necessary since you will also need guideplates and studs but it's IMO the right way to do it.
For springs, I've ran both single and duals. The benefits of the single beehives is weight. Less valvetrain weight is a good thing. The downside of them is protection. A dual spring, although heavier, will save your *** if one of the springs decides to break. I've seen single beehives break and wreck havoc on a motor. IMO, duals are the right way to do it.
Hope that helps. Once you decide what route you want to take with rockets and springs then we can advise you on some good pieces to consider.
Since you decided to go with dual springs (good choice) I'd recommmend checking out the Crane 10308-1 spring kit. I ran those springs with the cc503 cam once upon a time. At that time the spring kit was a good value from a cost standpoint. You can also consider the Lunati duals for the LT1 motor which are also a good value. There may be a couple other dual spring kits that won't kill the wallet for the LT1 but I can't think of them at the present time.
http://www.racingheadservice.com/rhs...ult/?q=1618-16
In any case, non self aligning rockers are overkill for a CC-503 cam. So, in that vain.....I would recommend the Ultras, 1618-16.....no guide plates needed!
KW
http://www.racingheadservice.com/rhs...ult/?q=1618-16
In any case, non self aligning rockers are overkill for a CC-503 cam. So, in that vain.....I would recommend the Ultras, 1618-16.....no guide plates needed!
KW
I still vote NSA. I ran SA rockers with the cc503 cam then I added heads and a more aggressive cam and then bought more appropriate NSA rockers and therefore spent the money twice. I wish I bought NSA from the get-go. It's slightly more additional cost upfront with the NSA but minimizes money wasted if the vehicle's setup is ever changed to something more aggressive down the line which often happens. Plus the added stability never hurts. Just my .02
Trending Topics
Comp Ultra Pro Mags are arguably the best RR outside of a shaft mount rig. There are other cheaper ones. I would stay away from Scorpion. I did use the Crane Gold SA's when I had a small cam with no issues
If going NSA and guide plates I use/recommend the ISKY adjustable guide plates. I found the fixed ones did not allow the RR tip to center L-R well on the valves with the GM fixed ones
These push rods, or Trick Flo are good. Check length but with the 503 cam on untouched heads & block the stock 7.200" length is likely right
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7608-16
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Comp Ultra Pro Mags are arguably the best RR outside of a shaft mount rig. There are other cheaper ones. I would stay away from Scorpion. I did use the Crane Gold SA's when I had a small cam with no issues
If going NSA and guide plates I use/recommend the ISKY adjustable guide plates. I found the fixed ones did not allow the RR tip to center L-R well on the valves with the GM fixed ones
These push rods, or Trick Flo are good. Check length but with the 503 cam on untouched heads & block the stock 7.200" length is likely right
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7608-16
Truth!
OP....there is a reason why the Hot Cam Kit is so cheap.....because, well, it's cheap.
I'm Jus' Sayin'.
KW
don't get hung up on the cost of the hot cam "kit"...it is not a factor as it is WRONG for your motor as a "kit". The springs in that kit were designed for lighter valves of the LT4 heads. They are weak with the solid, heavier, springs of the LT1 on any cam other than a stock LT1 cam....and not really any "upgrade" for a stock cam motor.
don't get hung up on the cost of the hot cam "kit"...it is not a factor as it is WRONG for your motor as a "kit". The springs in that kit were designed for lighter valves of the LT4 heads. They are weak with the solid, heavier, springs of the LT1 on any cam other than a stock LT1 cam....and not really any "upgrade" for a stock cam motor.
It appears that the spring used in the hotcam kit is 12551483.
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/gm-l...e-locks-shims/
When comparing it to the LT1 stock spring specs, they are very similar in spring pressures(only 5# difference @ around 1.22). So I don't think valve control is an issue with the hotcam springs when used with the hotcam. The main thing you get(and want) with the LT4 hotcam kit springs is more lift as the LT1 stocks springs can't handle the lift of the hotcam.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...ifference.html
If he doesn't go bananas with the revs he will most likely be fine with the hotcam kit.
Last edited by ACE1252; Mar 25, 2017 at 11:45 AM.
If he doesn't go bananas with the revs he will most likely be fine with the hotcam kit.
Valve springs are a "wear" item so if going through the work and cost of installing & buying parts, IMHO, better to buy stuff that will have a longer use life with the hot cam in a LT1 head motor.
regarding the printed stats of the springs you note, many have found the LT4 springs don't hold up well for very long in real world use when used with LT1 valves/heads.
The Op would be better off putting together another spring combination (Crane 10308-1 for example) and just buy the hot cam if that is the cam he wants....although better selection is available in the cam dept.
As long as they both appear physically fine without any pitting, gouges, or defects they will be good to go.
these would be the ARP 7/16" studs
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...FVC4wAodnY8ECQ
you are trying to go budget on the most critical area of the engine, valve train.
Alex stuff is decent but you need to understand the differences in sizes and what that involves. His spring kit for AL heads has good reports but has been out of stock for some time now.
you could just go 3/8" SA RR and keep the studs you have
Get a set of Crane 10308-1 springs
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-10308-1
Get FelPro valve stem seals from your local auto parts store
RR-SA 3/8"
Scorpian
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-scp1036
Crane
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...8-16/overview/
Summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...6-16/overview/
The Crane "narrow body" fit under stock valve covers. The other two also say they are "narrow body" but IDK if they do without trimming the VC braces, which in itself is no big deal to do. I have only used the Crane Gold 3/8" SA and they do fit
Your stock PR will be "OK"...but a chrome molly .080 thick wall would be better
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7608-16
shop around for best $...maybe you can find good used RR. I would not buy used springs unless 100% sure they were not used or if used VERY little milage







